Hello everyone,
I have a slightly awkward situation in the gallery area of our house. We installed a gallery in the attic space. A prefabricated wooden element was built between two reinforced concrete beams. Unfortunately, the reinforced concrete beam is higher than the floor structure. On the prefabricated wooden floor there is a carpet as the floor covering, and on the concrete beam a steel profile was installed as a railing, which holds the glass panels. Now I would like to furnish the gallery, and for that, I need to somehow cover this awkward transition (see picture).
My initial idea is to build some kind of substructure to lay something on top. Unfortunately, I’m not sure how to nicely cover the edge. Otherwise, I would simply install parquet flooring on the substructure. Or perhaps fill with screed and then use tile flooring?
Do you have any ideas?
Thanks a lot and best regards!
I have a slightly awkward situation in the gallery area of our house. We installed a gallery in the attic space. A prefabricated wooden element was built between two reinforced concrete beams. Unfortunately, the reinforced concrete beam is higher than the floor structure. On the prefabricated wooden floor there is a carpet as the floor covering, and on the concrete beam a steel profile was installed as a railing, which holds the glass panels. Now I would like to furnish the gallery, and for that, I need to somehow cover this awkward transition (see picture).
My initial idea is to build some kind of substructure to lay something on top. Unfortunately, I’m not sure how to nicely cover the edge. Otherwise, I would simply install parquet flooring on the substructure. Or perhaps fill with screed and then use tile flooring?
Do you have any ideas?
Thanks a lot and best regards!
There are certainly many possible solutions that could look visually appealing, depending on the budget and aesthetic preferences.
For example, a "wood slatting" could be applied to the horizontal step at the height of the screw connection. Deck boards (not necessarily parquet) could be secured onto the wood slatting so that the modified screw connections can support the load if someone steps on the horizontal surface. These boards should be trimmed vertically at the front, near the glass surface, with a 5mm (0.2 inch) gap, and milled at a 45° angle on the opposite side, leading towards the vertical surface. For the vertical concrete base area, the boards should also be milled at a 45° angle at the top. Drill holes with chamfered drill edges should be made at a sufficient distance on the boards. The screw heads will later sit flush with the (vertical) wood surface.
Once installed, the wood surfaces should be carefully moistened, allowed to dry, the raised grain sanded down with fine sandpaper, and after removing dust, treated with an oil/wax mixture.
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This is just one of the possibilities. Other options, such as applying coatings or compounds, will be very difficult to implement effectively because of the many small wooden blocks supporting the glass wall, making it challenging to achieve an attractive finish. The wood cladding, as described above, seems to be one of the visually appealing and cost-effective solutions.
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A good decision: KlaRa
For example, a "wood slatting" could be applied to the horizontal step at the height of the screw connection. Deck boards (not necessarily parquet) could be secured onto the wood slatting so that the modified screw connections can support the load if someone steps on the horizontal surface. These boards should be trimmed vertically at the front, near the glass surface, with a 5mm (0.2 inch) gap, and milled at a 45° angle on the opposite side, leading towards the vertical surface. For the vertical concrete base area, the boards should also be milled at a 45° angle at the top. Drill holes with chamfered drill edges should be made at a sufficient distance on the boards. The screw heads will later sit flush with the (vertical) wood surface.
Once installed, the wood surfaces should be carefully moistened, allowed to dry, the raised grain sanded down with fine sandpaper, and after removing dust, treated with an oil/wax mixture.
-------------
This is just one of the possibilities. Other options, such as applying coatings or compounds, will be very difficult to implement effectively because of the many small wooden blocks supporting the glass wall, making it challenging to achieve an attractive finish. The wood cladding, as described above, seems to be one of the visually appealing and cost-effective solutions.
-------------
A good decision: KlaRa
Thank you all for the suggestions. I will start by building a frame from wooden battens. Is it possible, for example, to have the HPL cut at a 45-degree angle on the corners so I can create a neat wrap-around effect? If I need several panels, are there transition profiles available? I will probably need to join multiple panels since I need to cover a length of about 6 meters (20 feet). Or can I install them edge to edge?
What thickness do you think I should use for the HPL panels, for example?
What thickness do you think I should use for the HPL panels, for example?
H
hanghaus20232 Oct 2025 13:02How does the whole setup look from below or from the outside?
A gallery and TV setup doesn’t seem like a good concept. For example, I would like to have good sound quality, which isn’t always appreciated by those downstairs. Similarly, if there is loud discussion downstairs, it makes watching TV unpleasant. Using headphones for the TV over a long period isn’t ideal either.
A gallery and TV setup doesn’t seem like a good concept. For example, I would like to have good sound quality, which isn’t always appreciated by those downstairs. Similarly, if there is loud discussion downstairs, it makes watching TV unpleasant. Using headphones for the TV over a long period isn’t ideal either.
H
hanghaus20232 Oct 2025 13:12fyaylmf schrieb:
Thank you all for the suggestions. I’ll start by building a frame from wooden battens. Is it possible, for example, to have the HPL panels cut at a 45-degree angle at the corners so I can wrap them nicely around the edge? If I need multiple panels, are there transition profiles available? I probably have to join several panels since I need to cover a length of about 6m (20 feet). Or can I install them edge to edge?
What thickness would you recommend for the HPL panels, for example?In my opinion, you’d usually do this with HPL planks. They are probably available in 6m (20 feet) lengths as well. It works better with a standing board in front and a horizontal profile on top. With the right installation clips, you can even do this without visible screws.Personally, I would prefer using wooden planks for this.
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