ᐅ How to Tell if the Underfloor Heating Is Operating – ERR Still Without Thermostat Cover
Created on: 15 Jul 2020 10:41
T
Tx-25
Hello. We have the feeling that the underfloor heating is running in one room of our new build. The room isn’t really hot, but the air feels like it does in winter when the heating is on. The floor is also not as cold as in the other rooms. Our room temperature sensors (RTS) are not installed yet. So far, only the thermostats themselves are fitted, but the covers for adjusting them are still missing. The electrician unfortunately delivered the wrong ones here. I have already turned the controller to the left with a screwdriver. However, I could keep doing this indefinitely. I can’t tell when it reaches zero. If I go too far, it goes back to 6. There has been a slight improvement in the room air quality, but the heating could still be running there. I should be able to check at the manifold boxes whether and in which circuit there is movement, right? But how? All the manifold valves are set to automatic. If the heating is firing, it could actually be heating. I seem to remember that ELCO customer service set the heating to activate only below an outside temperature of 18°C (64°F). Thinking about it, isn’t that quite high for a new build? If the outside temperature is 18°C (64°F) for 1 or 2 days, I shouldn’t really notice anything inside, right? What do you think?
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Daniel-Sp15 Jul 2020 19:32It is important to check whether there is a continuous flow. Do you have an IR thermometer?
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Daniel-Sp15 Jul 2020 19:36Has the hydraulic balancing been carried out by the heating engineer yet?
I don’t have an Infotot thermometer. In both the lower and upper bathroom, the circuit was open. After adjusting the ERR, the issue was resolved. I don’t know why it was running at all. What should be checked or adjusted for this?
The hydraulic balancing was done about 4 weeks ago. I don’t have a plan or confirmation for it yet.
Should I check again tomorrow morning (after the cool night) to see if anything is still running?
The hydraulic balancing was done about 4 weeks ago. I don’t have a plan or confirmation for it yet.
Should I check again tomorrow morning (after the cool night) to see if anything is still running?
D
Daniel-Sp15 Jul 2020 22:581. I would lower the heating limit.
2. Later, when the house is completed and handed over, disable ERR or set it to maximum. The heat pump requires a continuous flow rate to release the heat. ERR prevents this and causes the heat pump to cycle on and off. This is neither efficient, cost-effective, nor gentle on the equipment.
2. Later, when the house is completed and handed over, disable ERR or set it to maximum. The heat pump requires a continuous flow rate to release the heat. ERR prevents this and causes the heat pump to cycle on and off. This is neither efficient, cost-effective, nor gentle on the equipment.
Hello everyone.
I spoke with a technician from ELCO.
1. As a user, I cannot see the flow and return temperatures of the underfloor heating. There are no indicators installed on the pipes, and the settings inside the heating system itself can only be adjusted in the "professional area."
The heating system apparently controls the flow temperature automatically based on the outside temperature. He said that currently (around 15°C (59°F) outside temperature), it is approximately 22°C (72°F). If the return temperature is lower, the heating system increases the flow temperature.
At the typical 0°C (32°F) outside temperature, the flow temperature is about 32-33°C (90-91°F).
What do you think about this? Can it all continue to operate this way? The maximum possible temperature here would be around 45°C (113°F). I am familiar with 32-33°C (90-91°F) as an optimal flow temperature but am not sure if that is the correct value for 0°C (32°F) outside.
At -10°C (14°F) — which is rare here in Lower Saxony — I do not want a flow temperature of 40°C (104°F) unless absolutely necessary in our new build.
2. The outside temperature threshold that triggers the heating system to start is currently set at 20°C (68°F). I can adjust this myself and plan to lower it to 16°C (61°F). What are your experiences with this?
Additionally, I have the option to switch the heating system to summer mode. In this mode, the water is heated only once per day. I also consider this a sensible option, right?
I spoke with a technician from ELCO.
1. As a user, I cannot see the flow and return temperatures of the underfloor heating. There are no indicators installed on the pipes, and the settings inside the heating system itself can only be adjusted in the "professional area."
The heating system apparently controls the flow temperature automatically based on the outside temperature. He said that currently (around 15°C (59°F) outside temperature), it is approximately 22°C (72°F). If the return temperature is lower, the heating system increases the flow temperature.
At the typical 0°C (32°F) outside temperature, the flow temperature is about 32-33°C (90-91°F).
What do you think about this? Can it all continue to operate this way? The maximum possible temperature here would be around 45°C (113°F). I am familiar with 32-33°C (90-91°F) as an optimal flow temperature but am not sure if that is the correct value for 0°C (32°F) outside.
At -10°C (14°F) — which is rare here in Lower Saxony — I do not want a flow temperature of 40°C (104°F) unless absolutely necessary in our new build.
2. The outside temperature threshold that triggers the heating system to start is currently set at 20°C (68°F). I can adjust this myself and plan to lower it to 16°C (61°F). What are your experiences with this?
Additionally, I have the option to switch the heating system to summer mode. In this mode, the water is heated only once per day. I also consider this a sensible option, right?
Well, I’m also just a “layperson” with self-taught knowledge…but what you have there is already a complete disaster. Your electric meter ticks in winter like a gas pump when filling up a V8 with premium fuel.
According to your statements, you have a house with a KfW 40 insulation standard (which by itself doesn’t say much), and your heating system runs from an outdoor temperature of 20°C (68°F)? That already sounds completely off.
The heating limit should be around 12°C (54°F). And the supply temperature (assuming the underfloor heating was properly designed) should be about 33°C (91°F) at the standard outdoor temperature (for you that would be around -10°C (14°F), depending on your location). With good insulation, it should actually be possible to operate at significantly lower temperatures.
If I were you, I would start over completely. That means reading up on your heating system, getting proper instructions. And if the heating technician cannot or is unwilling to set it up correctly, then start from scratch yourself.
Maybe someone here can help you, but you might find better support in the magenta-colored forum.
According to your statements, you have a house with a KfW 40 insulation standard (which by itself doesn’t say much), and your heating system runs from an outdoor temperature of 20°C (68°F)? That already sounds completely off.
The heating limit should be around 12°C (54°F). And the supply temperature (assuming the underfloor heating was properly designed) should be about 33°C (91°F) at the standard outdoor temperature (for you that would be around -10°C (14°F), depending on your location). With good insulation, it should actually be possible to operate at significantly lower temperatures.
If I were you, I would start over completely. That means reading up on your heating system, getting proper instructions. And if the heating technician cannot or is unwilling to set it up correctly, then start from scratch yourself.
Maybe someone here can help you, but you might find better support in the magenta-colored forum.
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