ᐅ How to Tell if the Underfloor Heating Is Operating – ERR Still Without Thermostat Cover
Created on: 15 Jul 2020 10:41
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Tx-25Hello. We have the feeling that the underfloor heating is running in one room of our new build. The room isn’t really hot, but the air feels like it does in winter when the heating is on. The floor is also not as cold as in the other rooms. Our room temperature sensors (RTS) are not installed yet. So far, only the thermostats themselves are fitted, but the covers for adjusting them are still missing. The electrician unfortunately delivered the wrong ones here. I have already turned the controller to the left with a screwdriver. However, I could keep doing this indefinitely. I can’t tell when it reaches zero. If I go too far, it goes back to 6. There has been a slight improvement in the room air quality, but the heating could still be running there. I should be able to check at the manifold boxes whether and in which circuit there is movement, right? But how? All the manifold valves are set to automatic. If the heating is firing, it could actually be heating. I seem to remember that ELCO customer service set the heating to activate only below an outside temperature of 18°C (64°F). Thinking about it, isn’t that quite high for a new build? If the outside temperature is 18°C (64°F) for 1 or 2 days, I shouldn’t really notice anything inside, right? What do you think?
A photo of the distribution box probably speaks louder than a thousand words. You should be able to see from the pipes whether there is any flow or not.
Regarding the temperature, it obviously depends on how your heating curve is set and what type of heating system you have (gas or heat pump).
If the heating curve for a heat pump is set to a supply temperature of 20°–22°C (68°–72°F) at an outside temperature of 18°C (64°F), then not much heat will be drawn, since the house is significantly warmer, at least during summer.
The problem arises more when the temperature drops below 10°C (50°F) at night during summer.
That is why I completely turn off the heating circuit on the boiler during the summer.
Regarding the temperature, it obviously depends on how your heating curve is set and what type of heating system you have (gas or heat pump).
If the heating curve for a heat pump is set to a supply temperature of 20°–22°C (68°–72°F) at an outside temperature of 18°C (64°F), then not much heat will be drawn, since the house is significantly warmer, at least during summer.
The problem arises more when the temperature drops below 10°C (50°F) at night during summer.
That is why I completely turn off the heating circuit on the boiler during the summer.
All right. I will take a look at the tubes. How does a flow appear visually? Can you see any movement?
We have an air-to-water heat pump. I can only check the supply temperature for the underfloor heating through the menu settings, or is there another way to check it? I wanted to verify that anyway. I suspect it might be set a bit too high. What supply temperature do you recommend?
Also, where can I find the heating curve setting?
Do you turn off the heating circuit in the settings, or do you close a valve?
We have an air-to-water heat pump. I can only check the supply temperature for the underfloor heating through the menu settings, or is there another way to check it? I wanted to verify that anyway. I suspect it might be set a bit too high. What supply temperature do you recommend?
Also, where can I find the heating curve setting?
Do you turn off the heating circuit in the settings, or do you close a valve?
Unfortunately, there was no actual briefing. The user manual is available. However, I haven’t had the chance to go through it yet, as we are still busy with remaining work. I will definitely study the manual in detail later.
For some issues, I just want to ensure the quickest possible resolution.
For some issues, I just want to ensure the quickest possible resolution.
Tx-25 schrieb:
All right. I will take a look at the tubes. How can you visually tell if there is flow? Is there any visible movement?
The tubes have a small float inside. This shows you how much flow there currently is. However, this only reflects the present situation. For example, if the electronic radiator regulator (ERR) is set to 2 and opens again an hour later, the system can still provide heating. The ERR only knows whether it is open or closed. The question is also whether the electronic regulators are installed at all. That’s why a photo of the heating manifold would be helpful.
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