ᐅ How to Tell if the Underfloor Heating Is Operating – ERR Still Without Thermostat Cover
Created on: 15 Jul 2020 10:41
T
Tx-25
Hello. We have the feeling that the underfloor heating is running in one room of our new build. The room isn’t really hot, but the air feels like it does in winter when the heating is on. The floor is also not as cold as in the other rooms. Our room temperature sensors (RTS) are not installed yet. So far, only the thermostats themselves are fitted, but the covers for adjusting them are still missing. The electrician unfortunately delivered the wrong ones here. I have already turned the controller to the left with a screwdriver. However, I could keep doing this indefinitely. I can’t tell when it reaches zero. If I go too far, it goes back to 6. There has been a slight improvement in the room air quality, but the heating could still be running there. I should be able to check at the manifold boxes whether and in which circuit there is movement, right? But how? All the manifold valves are set to automatic. If the heating is firing, it could actually be heating. I seem to remember that ELCO customer service set the heating to activate only below an outside temperature of 18°C (64°F). Thinking about it, isn’t that quite high for a new build? If the outside temperature is 18°C (64°F) for 1 or 2 days, I shouldn’t really notice anything inside, right? What do you think?
T_im_Norden schrieb:
136 kW of heat for the heating, 67 kW of heat for the hot water.
Is the screed heating program probably included in that?
How much electricity has the heat pump used so far?
By the way, the heat meter should be able to display the supply temperature, at least according to the manual.Here is the current status regarding electricity consumption.
Also attached are some pictures from the heating specialist area. I couldn’t adjust the heating settings as I expected. For example, at 0°C (32°F) the temperature is 28°C (82°F), and at -10°C (14°F) it is 32°C (90°F). However, I could only set the supply temperature within the minimum and maximum limits of 20°C to 45°C (68°F to 113°F). I have now set 32°C (90°F) as the maximum in all zones. How can I be sure that this temperature isn’t already being used at 0°C (32°F)?
What is the purpose of the three zones anyway? This isn’t clear from the manual.
What do you think about the GREEN mode? It avoids using the electric heating element.
The heating curve is set to 0.6, and can be adjusted between 0.2 and 1.0. What setting would you recommend?
The type of temperature control is 3 out of 4. What does that mean exactly?
Tx-25 schrieb:
The heating curve is set to 0.6. It can be adjusted from 0.2 up to 1.0. What should I set it to? Set it to 0.2.
If that turns out to be too low during winter, increase it to 0.4 (or even higher if the system cannot reach the required temperatures).
Tx-25 schrieb:
Who tells me it doesn’t already operate at 0 degrees? That’s what the heating curve is for. It prevents the temperatures from rising above what the curve specifies. You could theoretically set it to 100°C (212°F) — which obviously you wouldn’t do, and this is a very simple example; in reality, it’s more complex — but if the heating curve states the temperatures should not exceed 45°C (113°F), then they won’t go beyond that.
T
T_im_Norden24 Jul 2020 11:31If your electricity meter has recorded the total electricity consumption for the 8 weeks of operation, the heating system’s coefficient of performance is good.
With 35.37 kW, you would have produced approximately 270 kW of heat.
With 35.37 kW, you would have produced approximately 270 kW of heat.
T_im_Norden schrieb:
If your electricity meter recorded the total electricity consumption for the 8 weeks of operation, the heating system’s coefficient of performance is good.
Then with 35.37 kWh you would have produced about 270 kWh of heat. I’m not entirely sure if you are serious or not. Could something be wrong here? The conversion should be roughly times 4 for the annual performance factor, right? This doesn’t make sense at all here.
T
T_im_Norden24 Jul 2020 16:28The seasonal performance factor (seasonal performance factor) is not actually a constant value but depends, for example, on the ambient temperature.
When it is warm, an air-to-water heat pump requires less energy to produce heat; when it is cold, it requires more.
Calculated over the course of the year, this results in the average value known as the seasonal performance factor.
When it is warm, an air-to-water heat pump requires less energy to produce heat; when it is cold, it requires more.
Calculated over the course of the year, this results in the average value known as the seasonal performance factor.
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