ᐅ How can I securely mount Ikea PAX wardrobes to drywall (plasterboard) walls?

Hello everyone, I plan to install an Ikea PAX wardrobe on a drywall in my apartment. Since the wall is not solid, I am unsure how to securely and permanently fix the wardrobe without damaging the wall or the wardrobe. My main question is: What fastening methods and materials are best suited to anchor an Ikea PAX firmly to drywall? I am also interested in advice on load capacity, suitable types of anchors, and any necessary preparation steps for the wall. Thanks in advance for your tips!

It is best to use hollow metal anchors or special drywall anchors designed for heavy loads. Be sure to check beforehand whether there is a stud behind the wall, and then attach directly to it. Alternatively, use heavy-duty anchors of the appropriate length.

Mounting an Ikea PAX wardrobe on drywall requires careful selection of anchors and consideration of the support structure. The following points are crucial:

- Use heavy-duty anchors or metal hollow wall anchors that are rated for the load of a wardrobe.
- Check with a stud finder or metal detector whether wooden or metal studs are located behind the drywall. Whenever possible, attach the PAX directly to these studs.
- Drill holes precisely with a diameter no larger than that of the anchor to avoid reducing load capacity.
- Avoid attaching the wardrobe solely to drywall without a supporting element behind it, as this can cause issues due to the weight.

Additionally, it is recommended to prepare the back panel of the wardrobe and the mounting holes in advance to facilitate tightening the screws later on.

I think there is way too much fear around gypsum board as a material. Sure, the walls aren’t like concrete or masonry, but with the right anchors, it’s not rocket science. “What are the best fastening methods?” Well, that’s almost the standard question everyone asks without really knowing the room. Why not instead ask: why attach to the wall at all? Ikea PAX units are sturdy, they can also be secured freestanding, and usually, those small wall anchors are enough just to prevent tipping.

BEMAU schrieb:

Avoid attaching exclusively to gypsum board without a load-bearing element behind it, as the weight may cause problems.

But that’s not a catastrophe if you use suitable heavy-duty hollow wall anchors. You just shouldn’t blindly assume “gypsum board = unsuitable,” since the market now offers plenty of solutions.

Another aspect often overlooked is the distribution of the load on the cabinet. Even when using high-quality hollow wall anchors, the attachment should not be limited to just one or two points. It is advisable to design the mounting with multiple points: at least three or preferably four fixing points to better distribute compression and tension forces.

From my experience: if you have access to the metal or wooden studs behind the drywall, directly screwing into them is always the safest option. In cases without studs, heavy-duty anchors (such as metal toggle bolts or expansion anchors for drywall) are recommended. However, the maximum load capacity of anchors in hollow walls is limited; therefore, careful assessment of the total load and additional securing of the cabinet against tipping is essential.

Great topic! 🙂 I had exactly the same problem and mounted my PAX on drywall. Here are my tips:

- Be sure to use metal cavity anchors; they are really strong!
- Locate the studs with a metal or wire detector and screw into them—that provides the best security!
- If there are no studs, distribute the fastening points widely and use at least 3 anchors; otherwise, the cabinet might tip over!
- I also added a brace at the top, screwed both to the cabinet and the wall for extra stability. It works great!

Good luck, you’ll manage it!