I would like to start a new comparison thread and learn about your energy consumption. I am not completely satisfied with mine.
KFW55
Heated area 200 m2 (2,150 sq ft), underfloor heating
Standard rooms 19°C (66°F), living areas 22°C (72°F), bathroom 23°C (73°F)
Air-to-water heat pump with centralized controlled ventilation system
Domestic hot water temperature 50°C (122°F)
Data collection unfortunately only since April 2019:
I will update the table monthly. November will be included soon, with an estimated 650 kWh.
KFW55
Heated area 200 m2 (2,150 sq ft), underfloor heating
Standard rooms 19°C (66°F), living areas 22°C (72°F), bathroom 23°C (73°F)
Air-to-water heat pump with centralized controlled ventilation system
Domestic hot water temperature 50°C (122°F)
Data collection unfortunately only since April 2019:
| April | 407 |
| May | 347 |
| June | 109 |
| July | 131 |
| August | 144 |
| September | 198 |
| October | 356 |
I will update the table monthly. November will be included soon, with an estimated 650 kWh.
If the new technology is properly planned and configured, comfort and efficiency would be ensured, and everyone would be satisfied.
However, in practice, there are significant shortcomings. In such cases, the reliable traditional construction methods and technology are the better choice.
Regarding my system: Novelan air-to-water heat pump 12Lav
I am not sure where I can control the pump; I cannot find an option for this.
However, in practice, there are significant shortcomings. In such cases, the reliable traditional construction methods and technology are the better choice.
Regarding my system: Novelan air-to-water heat pump 12Lav
I am not sure where I can control the pump; I cannot find an option for this.
B
boxandroof29 Nov 2019 12:46apokolok schrieb:
Annual performance factor over 5 for an air-to-water heat pump?
Are you sure? Yes, definitely.
I use a calibrated heat meter and a separate Eltako electricity meter to determine the values.
We have quite favorable conditions: low heating demand, low modulation, a good heat pump, strong night setback during the transition period, well-designed heating surfaces, "only" 21°C (70°F) indoors, a hot water demand that’s not large with 2.5 persons, location with a design temperature of -12°C (10°F). It’s possible. Theoretically, even higher is achievable, but only with very intelligent controls or a loss of comfort.
Top brine heat pumps reach 6. Most are around 5.
apokolok schrieb:
But funny discussion here. So you’re supposed to heat your bathroom with a fan heater because otherwise it’s not efficient enough?
I have 16°C (61°F) in the bedroom and 23°C (73°F) in the bathroom.
Yes, oil, yes, old building. Efficient? In new construction, there are alternatives to electric heating:
a) higher electricity costs and less efficient heating
b) design: also install underfloor heating in the walls if a permanent 23°C (73°F) is desired
c) accept the same temperature as in the living rooms
apokolok schrieb:
I have 16°C (61°F) in the bedroom and 23°C (73°F) in the bathroom. This is hardly achievable in new construction.
apokolok schrieb:
Don’t care. Okay
apokolok schrieb:
But it’s a bit of a strange development that new technology leads to lost comfort.
I mean, a fan heater in the bathroom, that’s really just unacceptable. It depends on your perspective and interpretation. Our bathroom is about 0.5-1K (0.9-1.8°F) warmer than the other rooms thanks to the wall and underfloor heating. I think that’s enough and I don’t need 26°C (79°F) in the bathroom. As soon as you turn on the shower, the temperature rises to 24-25°C (75-77°F) within a short time anyway. I don’t think a fan heater is bad either; you know your bathroom schedule and could run it for 10-20 minutes beforehand.
We bought a house from 1983 with 200 m² (2,150 sq ft) of living space, built solidly with brick and mortar. It is heated by a heat pump that is 5 years old. I will probably never be as energy-efficient as a 140 m² (1,500 sq ft) house with modern insulation. However, I feel the settings could be better optimized. I often read that you just need to google how to optimize it, but so far I haven’t found any guide or overview that really explains it clearly.
I have been assured by several sources that a top-quality heat pump is installed, but I find the energy consumption quite high.
We have underfloor heating in the living areas, and radiators in the basement and in a converted room above the garage, which isn’t an ideal combination. However, the two systems have separate circuits.
I have been assured by several sources that a top-quality heat pump is installed, but I find the energy consumption quite high.
We have underfloor heating in the living areas, and radiators in the basement and in a converted room above the garage, which isn’t an ideal combination. However, the two systems have separate circuits.
B
boxandroof29 Nov 2019 13:37Any measures that lower your supply temperature (and avoid frequent on/off cycles) will increase efficiency.
Perform a hydraulic balancing and keep all thermostats fully open permanently. This way, you can determine which rooms have insufficient heating surfaces/radiators and consider individual measures for those rooms if necessary. Control circulation – if present – intelligently, and consider removing buffer tanks if applicable. Increase the hysteresis for domestic hot water and/or lower the domestic hot water temperature; preferably heat domestic hot water in the afternoon.
The most important measure is usually only feasible before moving in: large heating surfaces. Radiators reduce efficiency. Even in new builds, heating surface area is more important than additional insulation.
Perform a hydraulic balancing and keep all thermostats fully open permanently. This way, you can determine which rooms have insufficient heating surfaces/radiators and consider individual measures for those rooms if necessary. Control circulation – if present – intelligently, and consider removing buffer tanks if applicable. Increase the hysteresis for domestic hot water and/or lower the domestic hot water temperature; preferably heat domestic hot water in the afternoon.
The most important measure is usually only feasible before moving in: large heating surfaces. Radiators reduce efficiency. Even in new builds, heating surface area is more important than additional insulation.
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