ᐅ Floor-to-ceiling windows: How to properly connect them to the floor?

Hello.

We have a planned floor structure height of 17cm (6.7 inches) and several floor-to-ceiling windows (patio doors). After the masonry work, it turned out that the bricks were also planned to be 17cm (6.7 inches) thick, which is problematic because the tiles are supposed to extend all the way in here, and a step is unwanted.

The site manager suggested removing 2cm (0.8 inches) to allow the floor covering to be installed up to the window.

Yesterday, I consulted with the window installer, who now proposes completely removing the brick here (or leaving a maximum height of 10cm (4 inches)) and extending the screed up to the window as well. This would also make sealing easier for the roofer on the outside.

Perhaps one of the experts here could share their opinion?

Thanks in advance.

At our place, the windows were installed directly on the raw concrete floor. On top of that, insulation was placed, followed by the underfloor heating pipes, and the whole setup was then covered with screed, similar to your option 2. The tiles can now be laid directly up to the window frame. From the outside, a small row of stones was placed in front of the window frame, and the windowsill was installed on top of that.

Best regards,
Sabine

Option 2. In our case, the terrace surface is finished on the outside (or there is a channel installed there).

What does your planner/architect say about this question?

Option 2 is clearly better both structurally and thermally. What is the relationship between the top edge of the finished floor and the terrain?

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One vote for proposal 2.

In Proposal 1, there would also need to be a gap strip between the screed and the Ytong blocks. This expansion joint would then also have to be continued through the floor covering. There is no facing brick facade, right?