Hello everyone,
I took Yvonne’s PDF and your comments on the socket topic to heart and tried to place the sockets and switches. Does this make sense? I mentally went through all the walking paths and thought about possible devices.
What concerns me a bit more are the doors... first, the patio doors in the kitchen leading outside, and second, the pocket sliding door between the living room and kitchen.
For the patio doors, especially which parts should be operable – or should it be a sliding door after all?
Regarding the door from the living room to the kitchen, I feel uncertain because I haven’t found a nice pocket double sliding door yet... A double hinged door would of course also work, but it takes up space. What do you think?
How is it generally? Is a door leaf usually left open? Or both? (This also relates somewhat to the door between the hallway and dining area. In our apartment, I think all doors are usually open...)
Thanks for your input. I hope everything is at least somewhat clear (legend is below the image).
L = Living room (2 switches)
B = Bedroom
U = Under the stairs
H = Upstairs hallway
E = Entrance hallway (ground floor)
C = Cloakroom
W = WC (in the bathroom 😉 )
K = Kitchen
D = Dining
O = Outside
S = Utility room
Ba = Bathroom (ground floor)
Green = Network
Orange = Sockets
Blue = Switches
Number = Quantity
I took Yvonne’s PDF and your comments on the socket topic to heart and tried to place the sockets and switches. Does this make sense? I mentally went through all the walking paths and thought about possible devices.
What concerns me a bit more are the doors... first, the patio doors in the kitchen leading outside, and second, the pocket sliding door between the living room and kitchen.
For the patio doors, especially which parts should be operable – or should it be a sliding door after all?
Regarding the door from the living room to the kitchen, I feel uncertain because I haven’t found a nice pocket double sliding door yet... A double hinged door would of course also work, but it takes up space. What do you think?
How is it generally? Is a door leaf usually left open? Or both? (This also relates somewhat to the door between the hallway and dining area. In our apartment, I think all doors are usually open...)
Thanks for your input. I hope everything is at least somewhat clear (legend is below the image).
L = Living room (2 switches)
B = Bedroom
U = Under the stairs
H = Upstairs hallway
E = Entrance hallway (ground floor)
C = Cloakroom
W = WC (in the bathroom 😉 )
K = Kitchen
D = Dining
O = Outside
S = Utility room
Ba = Bathroom (ground floor)
Green = Network
Orange = Sockets
Blue = Switches
Number = Quantity
Is it really true that double doors tend to sag and become drafty? We helped with a move over the weekend, and they had a double door like that—it looked sturdy... but on the other hand, it makes sense that a door fully installed within a frame is more stable than one that closes against another window element.
Regarding the patio doors—the smaller one in the living room facing the kitchen leads to the covered terrace and should be operable. The double door facing east in the living room points towards the neighbor and the 3-meter (10-foot) building setback line—we were thinking of having two fixed panels there. For the large set of four windows in the living room, we had so far mainly considered making all of them fixed—but maybe having a door there wouldn’t hurt, in case we decide on an uncovered terrace (the south side in front of the living room also gets the most sunlight). So, a door in the kitchen at the counter? Okay.
In the kitchen, all outlets except for the stove and oven. Thanks for the tip about the double sockets—that is exactly intended for the phone; alternatively, it will be placed in the dining room. An intercom was not planned. Thanks for the advice to limit it to no more than three.
Regarding the patio doors—the smaller one in the living room facing the kitchen leads to the covered terrace and should be operable. The double door facing east in the living room points towards the neighbor and the 3-meter (10-foot) building setback line—we were thinking of having two fixed panels there. For the large set of four windows in the living room, we had so far mainly considered making all of them fixed—but maybe having a door there wouldn’t hurt, in case we decide on an uncovered terrace (the south side in front of the living room also gets the most sunlight). So, a door in the kitchen at the counter? Okay.
In the kitchen, all outlets except for the stove and oven. Thanks for the tip about the double sockets—that is exactly intended for the phone; alternatively, it will be placed in the dining room. An intercom was not planned. Thanks for the advice to limit it to no more than three.
S
Sebastian7917 Jun 2015 20:01My goodness, my text is in German – sorry, no intention!
If you choose a sliding door between the hallway and dining area, it will most likely slide along the hallway side—right? In that case, there won’t be space for a light switch for the hallway on the hallway side of the door. So consider controlling the hallway light with a motion sensor. Alternatively, design the wall so that sliding doors are built into the wall, possibly behind a secondary wall. This way, switches and similar controls can be integrated there.
I would always plan wiring for an intercom system, even if you don’t use it right away.
For standard windows, provide an outlet in the window recess. Useful for a small table lamp, Christmas lights, etc.
For roller shutter switches, I would include both options: a central control point for future upgrades and the desired switches at each window.
Link outlets and light switches inside the terrace area with a central master switch.
In the bedroom, consider wiring the outlets intended for bedside lamps with a second switch near the door. Often, when getting up, people turn on the bedside lamp instead of the ceiling light and then leave the room thinking, “Oh, better turn the light off.”
I would always plan wiring for an intercom system, even if you don’t use it right away.
For standard windows, provide an outlet in the window recess. Useful for a small table lamp, Christmas lights, etc.
For roller shutter switches, I would include both options: a central control point for future upgrades and the desired switches at each window.
Link outlets and light switches inside the terrace area with a central master switch.
In the bedroom, consider wiring the outlets intended for bedside lamps with a second switch near the door. Often, when getting up, people turn on the bedside lamp instead of the ceiling light and then leave the room thinking, “Oh, better turn the light off.”
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