ᐅ How can I securely mount BILLY shelves on walls in older buildings?
Created on: 18 May 2021 16:04
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joneo38Hello everyone, I want to secure my Billy shelves to the walls in an older apartment. Unfortunately, the walls are not solid concrete but rather old plaster and layered walls with some cavities and very different structures. My question is: How can I safely and permanently fix the shelves without the anchors slipping out or damaging the wall? I am especially interested in which types of anchors or fasteners work best for these kinds of old walls, and if there are any precautions I should take when drilling or installing. I look forward to practical tips and recommendations, and I welcome any experiences with similar situations!
For old building walls, specialized hollow wall anchors or so-called aerated concrete anchors usually work well. It is important to carefully check the spot beforehand to ensure there are no cables or pipes inside. Otherwise, use screws that are compatible with the anchor and pay attention to the drill hole—not too large or too small.
The challenge with older walls often lies in the uncertainty of the substrate – as you mentioned, cavities and crumbly plaster are common. Initially, drywall anchors or cavity anchors are indeed an option, but I strongly recommend thoroughly checking the wall structure beforehand, for example with a small drill hole or a wall scanner. Even more important is that with this BILLY shelving system, there are usually quite a few load points.
I suggest using a combination of different elements: use cavity anchors or toggle bolts for hollow sections, traditional expansion anchors for solid masonry, and chemical injection mortar (resin) for soft, porous areas. The latter fills the cavities well and ensures high load-bearing capacity. It is also important to choose a drill bit slightly smaller than the anchor and to thoroughly clean out the holes to ensure the anchors hold properly.
Another question for you: How much weight do you plan to put on the shelves? The heavier the load, the more safety measures you will naturally need. It is also important that the screws are not too short – they should be anchored at least 50 mm (2 inches) into the wall. Have you already determined the approximate thickness of the plaster? This also affects the choice of anchors.
I suggest using a combination of different elements: use cavity anchors or toggle bolts for hollow sections, traditional expansion anchors for solid masonry, and chemical injection mortar (resin) for soft, porous areas. The latter fills the cavities well and ensures high load-bearing capacity. It is also important to choose a drill bit slightly smaller than the anchor and to thoroughly clean out the holes to ensure the anchors hold properly.
Another question for you: How much weight do you plan to put on the shelves? The heavier the load, the more safety measures you will naturally need. It is also important that the screws are not too short – they should be anchored at least 50 mm (2 inches) into the wall. Have you already determined the approximate thickness of the plaster? This also affects the choice of anchors.
Interesting points have already been raised here. However, I believe that you can’t simply rely on specific anchors for old building walls in general. The outcome depends heavily on the exact type of wall—brick, clay, thick plaster layer, or timber frame.
I think that’s a good approach, but the question for me is: How do you, joneo38, plan to assess and differentiate the structure of your wall in advance? Do you have ways to check different spots? It’s often underestimated whether the wall will give way or crack when an anchor is installed—and activities like re-drilling can also be critical.
I ask because I’ve experienced situations in old buildings where anchors were pushed out, even though they were properly chosen. Sometimes the solution is to fix a wooden board to the wall and then screw the shelf onto that. This spreads the load and avoids point stresses.
So: Individual anchors do not always make sense, especially with highly variable wall composition.
glamo schrieb:
“I recommend a combination of several elements”
I think that’s a good approach, but the question for me is: How do you, joneo38, plan to assess and differentiate the structure of your wall in advance? Do you have ways to check different spots? It’s often underestimated whether the wall will give way or crack when an anchor is installed—and activities like re-drilling can also be critical.
I ask because I’ve experienced situations in old buildings where anchors were pushed out, even though they were properly chosen. Sometimes the solution is to fix a wooden board to the wall and then screw the shelf onto that. This spreads the load and avoids point stresses.
So: Individual anchors do not always make sense, especially with highly variable wall composition.
Hi joneo38 🙂 The tip about the wooden board that Tause just gave is really clever – I’ve done the same before. Simply attach a sturdy, preferably thin plywood board to the wall and then fix the BILLY shelves onto it.
This has the advantage of giving you more flexibility with the choice of anchors and distributes the load much better. If the surface of the old wall is crumbly, this protects it from too much pressure.
I also agree with glamo; it’s definitely worth spending extra time checking and selecting suitable fasteners for old walls. Don’t forget the door frame – sometimes the shelf itself also plays a role in stability. 😉 Good luck, and please let us know how you ended up doing it!
This has the advantage of giving you more flexibility with the choice of anchors and distributes the load much better. If the surface of the old wall is crumbly, this protects it from too much pressure.
I also agree with glamo; it’s definitely worth spending extra time checking and selecting suitable fasteners for old walls. Don’t forget the door frame – sometimes the shelf itself also plays a role in stability. 😉 Good luck, and please let us know how you ended up doing it!
As an addition: In older buildings, various wall materials are common, ranging from solid masonry and clay to drywall (plasterboard) or timber framing. It is important that the plugs and screws correspond to the wall structure.
In practice, I recommend the following approach:
1. Identify the wall type: visual inspection, drill a test hole to check material and depth
2. Use cavity anchors and toggle bolts for hollow spaces
3. Apply chemical anchors (injection mortar) for porous or unstable masonry
4. Determine the application and load of the shelves (e.g., 20–30 kg (44–66 lbs) per shelf)
5. Consult IKEA product instructions regarding load capacity and fixing points
When drilling, use a slow speed and light pressure to avoid damaging the wall. A secure anchoring at least 5 cm (2 inches) deep is essential. Alternatively, a substructure can be installed on the wall with solid anchors, onto which the shelves are mounted. This reduces risks and sustainably increases stability.
In practice, I recommend the following approach:
1. Identify the wall type: visual inspection, drill a test hole to check material and depth
2. Use cavity anchors and toggle bolts for hollow spaces
3. Apply chemical anchors (injection mortar) for porous or unstable masonry
4. Determine the application and load of the shelves (e.g., 20–30 kg (44–66 lbs) per shelf)
5. Consult IKEA product instructions regarding load capacity and fixing points
When drilling, use a slow speed and light pressure to avoid damaging the wall. A secure anchoring at least 5 cm (2 inches) deep is essential. Alternatively, a substructure can be installed on the wall with solid anchors, onto which the shelves are mounted. This reduces risks and sustainably increases stability.
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