ᐅ Creating a Plan for Insulating an Old Building – How to Proceed?

Created on: 30 Aug 2022 10:30
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Tobibi
Hello,

I’m currently trying to make a plan for how to best improve the insulation of our house. I hope I can write everything down clearly so that some of you might be able to give me tips or suggest different approaches.

We bought a large house from 1982, about 200 sqm (2,150 sq ft) of living space. There is an approximately 6-year-old heat pump for heating and hot water, and a small wood stove in the living room. The ground floor and first floor have underfloor heating, while three basement rooms and a converted room above the garage have radiators. These radiators have a separate heating circuit with their own flow temperature and are rarely used, actually not at all in the basement.

In the main bedroom on the first floor, the previous owner opened the ceiling a few years ago, creating a high space that goes up to the roof ridge. The roof was insulated at that time, but I don’t have any documentation on how well. The rest of the house remains in its original condition, so basically uninsulated.

The walls are solid brick. The wooden windows have double glazing. Many windows and the front door do not seal well, allowing noticeable drafts at some windows. The top floor ceiling is not concrete but made of joists, covered underneath on the first floor with drywall and boards on top. Between the joists, there appears to be rock wool insulation packed in.

We have a 9 kWp photovoltaic system with battery storage, which the previous owner also installed. As it currently stands, the electricity from the photovoltaic system cannot be used for the heat pump, only for other household electricity. There is a separate meter with a heating electricity contract. Surplus electricity is fed back into the grid.

I recently received the heating electricity bill, showing that from March 2021 to March 2022—one full year—we used about 12,500 kWh for heating and hot water, which I find quite high. I definitely want to take action, especially since electricity prices are rising sharply. I’m not an experienced DIYer, but I can assist and have very helpful father and father-in-law who have a lot of skills. So, some things could be done ourselves, although time is always a factor.

A no-brainer seems to be replacing the window seals and adjusting them so they close tightly again. I am already in contact with a company for this.
Next, I’m thinking about insulating the roller shutter boxes. I would probably get a company to do this as well.
I’m considering insulating the basement ceiling with insulation boards that can be glued or fixed with plugs. If there are instructions available, we would rather do that ourselves. Or should I focus on insulating the top floor ceiling or installing insulation between the rafters? Or both? Probably not at the same time—maybe one this year and the other in a year or two. What would be the better order?

Would it make sense to modify the photovoltaic system so that the electricity can be used for the heat pump? I would have to hire an electrician for that, which costs money. But then the electricity would be usable for heating, and there would be only one basic fee. On the other hand, the yield in winter is not very good, and I would lose the cheaper heating electricity tariff. I once tracked generated, fed-in, self-used, and purchased electricity over a longer period and basically concluded that the conversion might not be worthwhile. But now electricity prices are rising dramatically.

Insulating the facade and/or installing new windows is honestly too expensive for me right now. On the other hand, we will need to have the entire exterior repainted next year or the year after. That costs several thousand when done professionally, which would almost offset the cost of external wall insulation. But presumably, these two should go together—insulation and new windows—because doing only one is not sensible and could cause problems with condensation.

So, that turned out to be quite a long message. I hope it’s understandable. How would you proceed? If I forgot anything, just ask. I might also add a follow-up later.

Best regards,
Tobi
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nordanney
23 Mar 2024 13:48
Adam2112 schrieb:

It is now even stated on the dibt website that if a Declaration of Conformity (CE) is present, NO further approvals are issued BECAUSE THIS HAS BEEN ILLEGAL FOR MANY YEARS.

EU Declaration of Conformity label for PSC coating on a document


Table of technical specifications of a product with thermal conductivity and fire protection data


CE Declaration of Conformity issued under manufacturer’s responsibility; large CE symbol.

Oh, the CE document, which uses different fonts and does not follow the required templates...
And it also does not use the mandated CE formatting:

Large CE mark on a white background, illustration of the CE logo.


Naive...
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Cronos86
23 Mar 2024 13:49
And here we go again... it’s almost like a crime series—everyone knows that can’t be true, but how do we find something even Adam can’t deny anymore...

But you want to convince us about your product. How about another kettle video, this time running two tests simultaneously? One with your 3 mm (0.1 inch) PsCoat and one where you wrap the kettle in 10 cm (4 inches) of Styrofoam... recording from cold start until the kettle has been boiling for a while. Then I’m curious to see the thermal camera images.
A
Adam2112
23 Mar 2024 14:16
nordanney schrieb:

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1711197566060.png

Oh, the CE document uses different fonts and doesn’t follow the required format...
And it doesn’t use the prescribed CE layout:
plan-fuer-altbau-daemmung-machen-wie-vorgehen-658718-1.png"]84953[/ATTACH]<br />
<br />
Naive...</blockquote>Since in Germany paper is purchased rather than a product, it has now even been officially translated and certified  😉<br />
[ATTACH type="full" alt="Document with performance characteristic table, CE logo, signature, and stamp.
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Cronos86
23 Mar 2024 14:59
As mentioned before, it’s strange that a different font and indentation are used for the thermal transmittance value (U-value). Someone must have thought that the value is so absurd and unrealistic that it needed to be highlighted by a different formatting style. The product doesn’t explain how such a thing could be possible... instead of providing an explanation, it just says to try it yourself.

Please carry out the test as described above.
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Adam2112
23 Mar 2024 15:57
Cronos86 schrieb:

As mentioned before, it’s strange that a different font and indentation are used for the thermal transmittance value (U-value)...
Someone must have thought the value is so unrealistic and far from reality that it needs to be highlighted with a different formatting.
The product doesn’t explain how this could be possible... instead of explaining, it just says to try it yourself...

Please conduct the test as described above.

There is plenty of information online about how it works. Briefly again: nanospheres with vacuum. Basically like a thermos flask with additional phenomena such as the Knudsen effect. It is widely known worldwide and increasingly researched every day.

Search for nanospheres, look up references, and ideally try it yourself with the interior. Customers have even reported rooms being 10°C (18°F) warmer that were previously difficult to heat.
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Adam2112
23 Mar 2024 16:14
There are interesting research reports on nanospheres, the Knudsen effect, etc., available on Science Direct...