ᐅ Heat pumps consume a significant amount of energy and can generate considerable noise.

Eldirwars schrieb:

If I set the thermostat in unused rooms to 15 degrees, the room doesn’t heat, right?

You’re thinking too narrowly. If you turn off the thermostat in the guest room and the bathroom is next to it, the bathroom heats the guest room through the walls. Interior walls are much less insulated than exterior walls. This means the calculated heating load for the bathroom is no longer accurate, and it won’t get warm enough. Modern heating systems are only slightly controlled by the thermostat, which is far too slow anyway. Instead, modern systems adjust the flow temperature based on the outdoor temperature, and the flow rate per room is matched to the expected heating load. If that calculation is off because one room is heating another as well, all these calculations become useless.
Your thinking still reflects old buildings with radiators and high flow temperatures. Back then, the thermostat did indeed control the heating, but that is no longer the case.

Eldirwars schrieb:

The hydraulic balancing was done, and the flow rate was adjusted again by the heating technician yesterday.

Is the hydraulic balancing and flow rate adjustment done for the entire house, or did you set them specifically for heating the 80sqm (860 sq ft)?
I’m afraid you have a hydraulic balance for the whole house, which you’re completely disrupting by closing off different rooms. Then you shouldn’t be surprised by the results, because the 80sqm (860 sq ft) are actually only supposed to heat 80sqm (860 sq ft), not the entire house (which they have to do in your case).

Eldirwars schrieb:

Am I supposed to open each valve fully to allow the full flow rate and let every room be supplied with the full amount of water? Won’t this increase energy consumption? I need to look up what ERR caps are and possibly adjust them, also the bypass valve.

You should first open the ERR valves and let the heating system do the job it was designed for. That’s how the technician planned and set it up.

Eldirwars schrieb:

It’s just that when I stand in front of the manifold and open various valves, it still gets louder depending on how much and how far I open them.

Why do you keep adjusting it? I thought

Eldirwars schrieb:

the technician adjusted the flow rates again yesterday

and now you’re messing everything up again?

Additional note: @WilderSueden has explained this again! Just trust us or look it up and read about it a bit. You basically have a thermos flask or a refrigerator as a house. Well insulated on the outside, so the heat needs to distribute itself evenly inside.

WilderSueden schrieb:

You’re thinking too small. If you turn off the thermostat in the guest room and the bathroom is next to it, the bathroom will heat the guest room through the walls. Interior walls are much less insulated than exterior walls. This means the calculated heating load for the bathroom no longer applies, and it won’t get warm enough. Modern heating systems are only slightly controlled by the thermostat, which is anyway too slow. Instead, modern heating systems are controlled by the flow temperature based on the outside temperature, and the flow rate for each room is adjusted according to its expected heating load. If that isn’t accurate because one room is also heating another, you can throw all the calculations out the window.

You still have the mindset of old buildings with radiators and high flow temperatures. Back then, the thermostat really did control the heating. But that’s no longer the case.

That all sounds very insightful. So, should I set the office, guest room, and kids’ room to 18°C (64°F), or should I open all the thermostats fully? For example, we worked with the heating engineer to completely close the valves in the hallway upstairs and downstairs because we assumed those areas would be heated anyway. That was the chief engineer himself, so he should know and must have done the calculations back then. Also, after we tested the actuator motors, he told me I could turn the thermostat in the office back down.

When the Bosch technician came for installation, he also said I should set all thermostats to 30 (fully open) and see if the flow temperature is sufficient. However, I feel that’s wasteful, since the bedroom is set to 18°C (64°F), the living room to 21°C (70°F), and the kids’ room recently again to 22°C (72°F) according to the standard (during underfloor heating installation regarding spacing). Wouldn’t this mean the unused kids’ room would consistently get more heat than necessary?

Yes, I believe you, I just wasn’t aware of it before. However, I still think that the noise didn’t go away afterward. Was it really a good idea for the heating engineer to change the pump setting from level 3 to 1 inside the unit without being able to explain why? The technician must have had a reason back then, right?
No, since he adjusted everything yesterday, I haven’t done anything else, but it didn’t get any quieter. Even at the beginning, when everything was on, it was still loud.

Read this first for reference, otherwise the discussion will get lost in the details again.

jens.knoedel schrieb:

Hydraulic balancing and flow rates for the whole house, or have you adjusted all of them separately for heating the 80sqm (860 sq ft)?
I’m afraid you have a hydraulic balancing for the entire house, and you completely disrupt it by closing off different rooms. Then you shouldn’t be surprised by the results, because the 80sqm (860 sq ft) are actually supposed to heat only 80sqm (860 sq ft) and not the whole house (which they have to do in your case).

Hydraulic balancing for the entire house. However, the head of the heating company did not set it according to any list or similar. For each circuit, the length of the pipe in meters (feet) is noted. Based on these lengths, he then set flow rates between 0.8 and 2.0 liters per minute (gallons per minute). 0.8 L/min at 60 meters (197 feet), 1.5 L/min at 120 meters (394 feet). So, in my opinion, everything is very imprecise.