ᐅ Heat pumps consume a significant amount of energy and can generate considerable noise.
Created on: 17 Jan 2024 18:26
E
Eldirwars
Hello everyone,
We have been living in our new house for one month now and are experiencing significant noise issues. The noise comes from the manifold of the underfloor heating system as well as the pump itself, which is very loud. The sounds are mostly sharp clicking or ticking noises, especially noticeable in the bedroom. The flow rate and the pump settings have been adjusted, but nothing has improved. However, it is always quiet in the early morning hours. Could it possibly be due to a setting on the unit? The heating technician has already been here but is unsure of the cause. Another technician from Bosch is scheduled to come and take a look, but I’m not sure if the pump is the problem. Also, the house is barely warming up at the current temperatures, and I am using more than 30 kWh daily, which seems very high for a 150 m² (1,615 sq ft) home.
We have been living in our new house for one month now and are experiencing significant noise issues. The noise comes from the manifold of the underfloor heating system as well as the pump itself, which is very loud. The sounds are mostly sharp clicking or ticking noises, especially noticeable in the bedroom. The flow rate and the pump settings have been adjusted, but nothing has improved. However, it is always quiet in the early morning hours. Could it possibly be due to a setting on the unit? The heating technician has already been here but is unsure of the cause. Another technician from Bosch is scheduled to come and take a look, but I’m not sure if the pump is the problem. Also, the house is barely warming up at the current temperatures, and I am using more than 30 kWh daily, which seems very high for a 150 m² (1,615 sq ft) home.
E
Eldirwars18 Jan 2024 17:10Does this generally mean that it’s best to turn off my thermostatic valves, or should I manually set them to 30 so they’re always “on” in every room? Should I adjust my heating curve as low as possible but still high enough? My unused rooms would be heated as well, and in the end, I shouldn’t use more electricity than if only individual rooms were heated? I still have standard bricks without additional insulation, perlite fill, or expanded polystyrene (“Styrofoam”), etc. Does this approach still make sense with these building standards?
J
jens.knoedel18 Jan 2024 17:56Eldirwars schrieb:
At least I still have regular bricks and no extra insulation or perlite filling, "Styrofoam," etc. Does it still make sense with this standard? It doesn’t matter how the building is constructed. New buildings are all equally good. KfW 55 is simply KfW 55.
E
Eldirwars18 Jan 2024 21:00KingJulien schrieb:
Your heat pump doesn’t know what’s set on your balancing valve, and it wouldn’t care anyway.
Those are just ON/OFF valves; they can’t do more than that.
And the 30 degrees (or any temperature setting) is just nonsense.
Trust me, the noises come from throttling. The wind whistles through a keyhole, not an open door.
I would fully open everything and do the balancing myself. It’s not rocket science. Yes, when I close the shut-off valves, everything is quiet. So the noise must be coming from inside the valve box. But if I open everything as I did before and then do the balancing myself, nothing changes. As soon as something flows through, it makes noise. Whether fully open or not. Maybe I really should have a bypass valve installed?
R
RotorMotor18 Jan 2024 21:02What flow rates do the sight glasses show then?
Is the system properly vented?
Is the system properly vented?
E
Eldirwars18 Jan 2024 21:06KingJulien schrieb:
I don’t know the first one, you’ll have to look it up yourself. For example, the user manual and menu.
Regarding the second: wherever it says Xtratherm.
Edit: The other way around. Where it says Xtratherm, those are the actuators responsible for the ERR, right? There’s supposed to be something throttled underneath those? How do I access that?
E
Eldirwars18 Jan 2024 21:10Flow rate ranges from just under 1 to about 1.6 liters (approximately 0.26 to 0.42 gallons) depending on the length of the pipes. I found out today that it can’t go any higher because the heating engineer adjusted the heat pump (after removing the front cover) from level 3 down to level 1. According to him, this was related to flow or pressure and he believed this was the cause. However, it turned out not to be the case. During the last time, each circuit was manually flushed to remove air, and again yesterday it was vented, but there was no air in the system.
Similar topics