Hello everyone, I am currently digging holes to set fence posts in concrete. So far, it has taken me about 7 hours for 12 holes. These are only about 30cm (12 inches) deep with a diameter of approximately 20cm (8 inches). I still need to dig around 25 more holes. The soil is very clayey and rocky. I removed the top 10cm (4 inches) of topsoil with a spade and then used a hammer and chisel to finish the rest. Does anyone have any ideas on how I could make this easier? I am hesitant to use an earth auger because I’m worried it might damage the bit due to the stones and rocks.
S
Stefan2.8424 Mar 2022 10:20Nida35a schrieb:
Dig holes, pour damp concrete, drive sleeves in directly, insert fence posts, align the posts using string and a spirit level.
Let cure for one week, then install the fence panels.
If you only align the sleeves, it will be crooked, as the sleeves are not straight or perfectly angled. Okay. I can definitely understand that you drive the sleeves in together with the posts, and then align based on the posts. That sounds reasonable to me. However, I still have some concerns that the sleeve/post combination might move while the concrete is still fresh. So, I guess I would need something to stabilize it. I would, however, prefer to assemble the fence posts onto the sleeves before setting them in the concrete since they need to be screwed in. That should be easier to do outside beforehand.
Stefan2.84 schrieb:
that the sleeve/post combination shifts when the concrete is fresh.Damp concrete, not fluid concrete. This allows the fence posts to be aligned perfectly.
I repeat, use fast-setting concrete. You put it in dry, insert the post, straighten it, and pour water over it with a watering can. If necessary, add more powder and water again, depending on the desired strength. After 5 minutes, the post/sleeve will hold on its own. You can also just do the bottom layer with fast-setting concrete—it has its price—and after 5 minutes, pour the cheaper screed on top. Of course, the screed must be mixed beforehand (yes, damp but not slurry).
guckuck2 schrieb:
I repeat, use quick-setting concrete. You put it in dry, insert the post, level it, and pour water over it with a watering can. I assume that for a hole about 50 cm (20 inches) deep and 25–30 cm (10–12 inches) in diameter, you would need at least two bags (= 50 kg (110 lbs)) of it. Is that correct?
Edit:
guckuck2 schrieb:
You can also just do the bottom layer with quick-setting concrete—it does have its price—and after the 5 minutes, pour the cheaper screed on top. But of course, that needs to be mixed beforehand (yes, earth-moist, not slurry). OK, so one bag plus about 25 kg (55 lbs) of “regular concrete” should be enough? 🙂
S
Stefan2.8424 Mar 2022 14:20I already have a lot of bags of screed concrete at home. I’m planning to slowly start working with the semi-dry mix.
netuser schrieb:
I assume that for a hole about 50 cm (20 inches) deep and 25-30 cm (10-12 inches) in diameter, you would need at least two bags (50 kg / 110 lbs) of this product. Is that correct? Calculate the volume of the hole first and then check the concrete application instructions ;-)
The hole has an approximate volume of 45 liters (12 gallons), and 25 kg (55 lbs) of Quickmix Ruckzuck yields about 13 liters (3.4 gallons), according to the data sheet.
However, you usually don’t fill concrete all the way to ground level, and something still needs to be embedded in the hole… so yes, at least two bags.
The same applies to screed: a 40 kg (88 lbs) bag produces roughly 20 liters (5.3 gallons). Ruckzuck is a huge time-saver since mixing isn’t required, the post sets in about 5 minutes, and it is load-bearing after one hour. Screed, on the other hand, requires three days…
Similar topics