Hello everyone,
We have decided to install a pool and want an automatic water refill system as well. This means we need water supply in our outdoor storage area, where the pool equipment and irrigation control will be located. Of course, we didn’t consider this during planning and construction, as the desire for a pool and automatic irrigation came much later. Anyway.
The outdoor storage is part of the house but is outside the thermal envelope and has no direct access from the house. Now the question is how to get the water connection into the outdoor storage. We would definitely install a backflow preventer. There are basically two options:
1) The pool installer suggested running an additional cold water line from the utility room on the opposite side of the house into the outdoor storage. We could tap off from there. However, this would require a core drill through the concrete wall and insulation, which I would prefer to avoid. The pool installer says this would pose no problem if the drill hole is properly foamed/sealed afterwards. So neither thermal nor sound insulation should be affected, especially since the outdoor storage already has a door and is otherwise tight.
2) I’ve only recently considered this option. We already have a frost-free outdoor faucet at the front. Would it theoretically be possible to modify this faucet or run a line from it through the garden and the front, uninsulated wall of the outdoor storage to supply the equipment? Or is this not advisable or feasible for some reason? The missing outdoor faucet could potentially be replaced by a water outlet if this works out.
What do the experts say? Is the solution with the additional line harmless and cleaner? Or am I risking creating a hole that wouldn’t be necessary otherwise?
Best regards
We have decided to install a pool and want an automatic water refill system as well. This means we need water supply in our outdoor storage area, where the pool equipment and irrigation control will be located. Of course, we didn’t consider this during planning and construction, as the desire for a pool and automatic irrigation came much later. Anyway.
The outdoor storage is part of the house but is outside the thermal envelope and has no direct access from the house. Now the question is how to get the water connection into the outdoor storage. We would definitely install a backflow preventer. There are basically two options:
1) The pool installer suggested running an additional cold water line from the utility room on the opposite side of the house into the outdoor storage. We could tap off from there. However, this would require a core drill through the concrete wall and insulation, which I would prefer to avoid. The pool installer says this would pose no problem if the drill hole is properly foamed/sealed afterwards. So neither thermal nor sound insulation should be affected, especially since the outdoor storage already has a door and is otherwise tight.
2) I’ve only recently considered this option. We already have a frost-free outdoor faucet at the front. Would it theoretically be possible to modify this faucet or run a line from it through the garden and the front, uninsulated wall of the outdoor storage to supply the equipment? Or is this not advisable or feasible for some reason? The missing outdoor faucet could potentially be replaced by a water outlet if this works out.
What do the experts say? Is the solution with the additional line harmless and cleaner? Or am I risking creating a hole that wouldn’t be necessary otherwise?
Best regards
The supply lines are partly already backfilled. The cistern is only backfilled around it. There should still be room to adjust. I’ll have to discuss this with the landscape gardener tomorrow. Do you mean that the sewer pipes (KG pipes) are pushed slightly outward through the seal to create space?
It is "almost" resolved. The connection from the landscape gardener to the sump was not quite correct. Only the emergency overflow is allowed to be inserted into the PVC pipe. The inflow from the sump is simply butted against the PVC pipe and then sealed with a quick connector from Graf. However, since we used two extensions because the cistern is located deeper, I have to check later if I can still access it at all. It is about 100 cm (40 inches) to the sump, where you would have to lean in and reach down. An alternative would be an external filter. However, I’m not keen on having another manhole cover there.
@rick2018: Another question for you as a pool owner. Can you do without a shower at the pool, or is it really a must-have? Because if so, I would have to extend the fresh water supply there as well.
@rick2018: Another question for you as a pool owner. Can you do without a shower at the pool, or is it really a must-have? Because if so, I would have to extend the fresh water supply there as well.
@rick2018 I’m using a 25 mm (1 inch) PE pipe as the main line under constant pressure and 24 mm (1 inch) Blulock pipe to supply the loops. My sprinkler loop has a total of 12 sprinklers arranged in a ring. Their total demand is 1.8 m³/h (475 gallons per hour). My pump delivers about 3.5 m³/h (925 gallons per hour) at 3.5 bar (50.8 psi) without accounting for friction losses, etc. My landscaping contractor said he wouldn’t do it that way, especially not with the 24 mm pipe. But the online irrigation experts who designed the system are relaxed about it. I tend to agree with them. Comments like that make you really unsure though. He said he never plans for more than 6 sprinklers per loop and always uses 32 mm (1 1/4 inch) pipes.
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