ᐅ Wall construction including insulation in timber frame construction
Created on: 17 Mar 2017 21:09
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drhaensenD
drhaensen17 Mar 2017 21:09Hello,
I have a small construction project and would like to know how the wall structure should be. It concerns a (future) apartment of about 60 m2 (645 sq ft) with a shed roof. There is a basement below. So far, from outside to inside, the layers are: glazed profile wood, battens 30 mm (1.2 inches), OSB boards 12 mm (0.5 inches), wooden studs 160 mm (6.3 inches).
Now I am wondering how to proceed further on the inside to finally reach the drywall. Specifically, the insulation (most logically 160 mm (6.3 inches) between the studs, right?). Where should the vapor barrier or vapor retarder be placed? Should I also build additional stud walls and insulate again in the cavity?
Thank you very much.
I have a small construction project and would like to know how the wall structure should be. It concerns a (future) apartment of about 60 m2 (645 sq ft) with a shed roof. There is a basement below. So far, from outside to inside, the layers are: glazed profile wood, battens 30 mm (1.2 inches), OSB boards 12 mm (0.5 inches), wooden studs 160 mm (6.3 inches).
Now I am wondering how to proceed further on the inside to finally reach the drywall. Specifically, the insulation (most logically 160 mm (6.3 inches) between the studs, right?). Where should the vapor barrier or vapor retarder be placed? Should I also build additional stud walls and insulate again in the cavity?
Thank you very much.
The wall structure seems a bit "thin" to me. My planned wall construction for my house is as follows, from outside to inside:
Plaster
120mm (5 inches) wood fiber insulation board
180mm (7 inches) wooden studs (blown with wood fiber)
12.5mm (0.5 inches) OSB board
70mm (3 inches) cross battens with soft wood fiber insulation in between
12.5mm (0.5 inches) gypsum fiberboard
In my case, the OSB board (airtightly sealed) serves as the vapor retarder, since the layers on the outside are more vapor-permeable. The service lines will be installed between the cross battens, creating a dedicated installation layer. This way, the vapor retarder does not have to be penetrated by the installations.
The interior must definitely be less vapor-permeable than the outside.
Will your house be a small building or an extension, or how should one imagine it? Depending on how well you want to insulate, the wall structure will be thicker. You could also place the OSB board on the inside and the wood fiber insulation board on the outside, making the assembly vapor-permeable towards the outside.
Plaster
120mm (5 inches) wood fiber insulation board
180mm (7 inches) wooden studs (blown with wood fiber)
12.5mm (0.5 inches) OSB board
70mm (3 inches) cross battens with soft wood fiber insulation in between
12.5mm (0.5 inches) gypsum fiberboard
In my case, the OSB board (airtightly sealed) serves as the vapor retarder, since the layers on the outside are more vapor-permeable. The service lines will be installed between the cross battens, creating a dedicated installation layer. This way, the vapor retarder does not have to be penetrated by the installations.
The interior must definitely be less vapor-permeable than the outside.
Will your house be a small building or an extension, or how should one imagine it? Depending on how well you want to insulate, the wall structure will be thicker. You could also place the OSB board on the inside and the wood fiber insulation board on the outside, making the assembly vapor-permeable towards the outside.
D
drhaensen21 Mar 2017 08:33Hi and thanks for your reply.
What I wrote is already accurate. It concerns an unused outbuilding, detached, so more like a small house. The facade is already finished, just to avoid having an eyesore on the property for too long. Insulation can now only be added from the inside. Only one wall has an additional 40 mm (1.6 inches) Styrodur insulation board on the outside, as it was plastered externally and did not have wooden cladding.
However, I’m not sure how thick the insulation should be at all—whether 160 mm (6.3 inches) is sufficient. By the way, everything is being done as a DIY project.
I also wanted to include a service cavity for plumbing and electrical installations. I was thinking of insulating the studs, then attaching a vapor barrier with battens, followed by counter-battens installed crosswise, and finally double gypsum board. But I don’t know if this is correct or even practical.
What I wrote is already accurate. It concerns an unused outbuilding, detached, so more like a small house. The facade is already finished, just to avoid having an eyesore on the property for too long. Insulation can now only be added from the inside. Only one wall has an additional 40 mm (1.6 inches) Styrodur insulation board on the outside, as it was plastered externally and did not have wooden cladding.
However, I’m not sure how thick the insulation should be at all—whether 160 mm (6.3 inches) is sufficient. By the way, everything is being done as a DIY project.
I also wanted to include a service cavity for plumbing and electrical installations. I was thinking of insulating the studs, then attaching a vapor barrier with battens, followed by counter-battens installed crosswise, and finally double gypsum board. But I don’t know if this is correct or even practical.
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