Hello,
the time has come – the old exposed aggregate concrete slabs at the entrance gate and front garden are going to be replaced with a mix of various concrete paver types and slabs. We are gathering different formats, including some natural stones and bricks mixed in. These will be laid in a random pattern (since there is no better way).
Now to my question: beneath the concrete slabs, there is about a 25cm (10 inches) thick layer of sand (grain size up to about 2mm, I suspect it is building sand). I find it hard to tell if the layer underneath has been compacted. In any case, it is not gravel but rather seems like a mixture of topsoil, stone, and brick rubble. The whole layer is quite firm (whether it was intentionally compacted or just hardened over time, I cannot say). Do you think I could simply lay our mixed stones directly in place of the concrete slabs without the stones settling within a short period?
Thank you very much for your advice.
Best regards, Chrisu1703
the time has come – the old exposed aggregate concrete slabs at the entrance gate and front garden are going to be replaced with a mix of various concrete paver types and slabs. We are gathering different formats, including some natural stones and bricks mixed in. These will be laid in a random pattern (since there is no better way).
Now to my question: beneath the concrete slabs, there is about a 25cm (10 inches) thick layer of sand (grain size up to about 2mm, I suspect it is building sand). I find it hard to tell if the layer underneath has been compacted. In any case, it is not gravel but rather seems like a mixture of topsoil, stone, and brick rubble. The whole layer is quite firm (whether it was intentionally compacted or just hardened over time, I cannot say). Do you think I could simply lay our mixed stones directly in place of the concrete slabs without the stones settling within a short period?
Thank you very much for your advice.
Best regards, Chrisu1703
C
Chrisu17034 Aug 2016 14:26... I will definitely give it a try – do you have any tips on how to complete the project "cleanly"? Thank you very much!
S
Sebastian794 Aug 2016 14:34No, because that just can hardly work – especially when it comes to creating paths with it.
You can try it, maybe it will look decent enough for your purposes.
I do find the pattern interesting...
You can try it, maybe it will look decent enough for your purposes.
I do find the pattern interesting...
C
Chrisu17034 Aug 2016 15:00We also really like the style, and above all, it is cost-effective... I will definitely share the final result – I hope it will be both visually appealing and durable for regular use ;-)
I also think the idea is good. However, I honestly wouldn’t know right away how to lay it properly.
You need to make sure that your current base course is at least the height difference between the stones plus an additional 2–3 cm (1–1¼ inches). Also, once sand has been loosened, it will settle. So, you should set the flatter stones slightly higher (1–2 cm / ⅓–¾ inch) than the taller ones, as they will compress more during compaction.
It’s worth trying, but I hope you’re not planning to pave 100 m² (1,076 sq ft) like this, because it could quickly become a huge task.
You need to make sure that your current base course is at least the height difference between the stones plus an additional 2–3 cm (1–1¼ inches). Also, once sand has been loosened, it will settle. So, you should set the flatter stones slightly higher (1–2 cm / ⅓–¾ inch) than the taller ones, as they will compress more during compaction.
It’s worth trying, but I hope you’re not planning to pave 100 m² (1,076 sq ft) like this, because it could quickly become a huge task.
I have also paved a path in the front yard myself using small granite cobblestones sized 4 x 6cm (1.5 x 2.5 inches) under similar conditions as you, so I don’t agree with the previous commenters.
We removed the concrete slabs and loosely marked an edge with 10 x 10cm (4 x 4 inches) pavers. I paved a curved path, which allowed me to adjust the edges later and not rely on cutting tools. Then I repeatedly spread gravel on the solid base until I had about 3cm (1.2 inches) of working depth for the stones. Using a rubber mallet, I tapped the small irregular stones into the bedding sand, arranging them in semi-circles.
Because granite cobblestones have very individually curved surfaces, any imperfections were hardly visible. On small sections, I regularly checked with wooden battens to ensure the surface was level. It is tedious, no doubt. I can also imagine that a larger paving stone, for example 10 x 20cm (4 x 8 inches), which must be individually set next to a fixed height, would be more difficult than 4 x 6cm granite stones. With these small stones, you simply push sand underneath repeatedly—better too much than too little—and tap it into place so that the excess sand is pushed out. This is, as mentioned, difficult or almost impossible with larger clinker bricks.
Basically, you have to use the lowest stone as the reference point and height marker. All other stones will need additional gravel or sand to reach the correct height. In doing so, you will generally end up higher than the old pavement with the concrete slabs. Those are 5cm (2 inches) thick, while your paving stones with a width of 10cm (4 inches) will build up significantly higher.
For the main path, you should be careful[B]—if you don’t work precisely—there is a risk of accidents for those using the path!
I wouldn’t worry about frost damage. However, your red clinker bricks might develop efflorescence from moisture, making them less attractive.
Nowadays, I would only recommend this approach for a secondary path, not a main walkway.
That said, I would start with a small test area, maybe half a meter, to see how it works out.
Have fun with the puzzle 🙂
We removed the concrete slabs and loosely marked an edge with 10 x 10cm (4 x 4 inches) pavers. I paved a curved path, which allowed me to adjust the edges later and not rely on cutting tools. Then I repeatedly spread gravel on the solid base until I had about 3cm (1.2 inches) of working depth for the stones. Using a rubber mallet, I tapped the small irregular stones into the bedding sand, arranging them in semi-circles.
Because granite cobblestones have very individually curved surfaces, any imperfections were hardly visible. On small sections, I regularly checked with wooden battens to ensure the surface was level. It is tedious, no doubt. I can also imagine that a larger paving stone, for example 10 x 20cm (4 x 8 inches), which must be individually set next to a fixed height, would be more difficult than 4 x 6cm granite stones. With these small stones, you simply push sand underneath repeatedly—better too much than too little—and tap it into place so that the excess sand is pushed out. This is, as mentioned, difficult or almost impossible with larger clinker bricks.
Basically, you have to use the lowest stone as the reference point and height marker. All other stones will need additional gravel or sand to reach the correct height. In doing so, you will generally end up higher than the old pavement with the concrete slabs. Those are 5cm (2 inches) thick, while your paving stones with a width of 10cm (4 inches) will build up significantly higher.
For the main path, you should be careful[B]—if you don’t work precisely—there is a risk of accidents for those using the path!
I wouldn’t worry about frost damage. However, your red clinker bricks might develop efflorescence from moisture, making them less attractive.
Nowadays, I would only recommend this approach for a secondary path, not a main walkway.
That said, I would start with a small test area, maybe half a meter, to see how it works out.
Have fun with the puzzle 🙂
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