Hi, how did you plan your utility room?
Ours is 7.50m² (81 sq ft) and already packed with
We only have space for a washing machine because our design specialist says the individual devices need to be spaced as far apart as possible so they can be accessed from all sides (except the back). However, I’m not sure how accurate that advice is.
Therefore, I’d like to ask here: Do you also have such large distances between each device (about 50 - 70cm (20 - 28 inches)) and consequently no room left to fit anything else?
I’m grateful for any experiences or tips!
Ours is 7.50m² (81 sq ft) and already packed with
- Brine heat pump
- Recirculation system
- Main electrical panel / distribution board
- Battery for photovoltaic system
- AC generator (photovoltaic)
We only have space for a washing machine because our design specialist says the individual devices need to be spaced as far apart as possible so they can be accessed from all sides (except the back). However, I’m not sure how accurate that advice is.
Therefore, I’d like to ask here: Do you also have such large distances between each device (about 50 - 70cm (20 - 28 inches)) and consequently no room left to fit anything else?
I’m grateful for any experiences or tips!
A
Alessandro2 Feb 2022 09:34I would suggest checking with the electrician about the required size of the distribution board. Often, they install much larger units than necessary, which take up unnecessary wall space. Unfortunately, this happened in my case—a huge one that cost a lot and contained nothing!
The cable ducts also looked like they had been dragged behind a truck.
Although it’s “just” the utility room, you still don’t have to accept everything and allow the technician to install items they have “forgotten” in the back corner of the warehouse for years.
The cable ducts also looked like they had been dragged behind a truck.
Although it’s “just” the utility room, you still don’t have to accept everything and allow the technician to install items they have “forgotten” in the back corner of the warehouse for years.
I can only partially understand what’s inside; usually, there are complaints about the space being too small when something needs to be retrofitted.
Basically, you have 1 to x rows for the meter; nothing should really be installed above that (upper connection compartment). Next to it, there is usually a distribution panel installed (in most cases empty). Above that, circuit breakers, RCDs, etc. can be installed. Additionally, about 30% space for expansion should be provided. That would be an absolute minimum, with a width of 55cm (22 inches). One more row, so about 80cm (31 inches) wide for a standard single-family house with one meter and nothing special, would be the absolute minimum to properly accommodate a few RCDs, circuit breakers, and so on. With photovoltaic systems, storage, possibly roller shutter controls, and use of terminal blocks, I would recommend going up to 1m (39 inches) in width.
A side note: do not install the network equipment inside the electrical cabinet. It is expensive and takes up unnecessary space. It’s better to use a simple patch panel and install the switch/router in a small cabinet mounted near the ceiling, which is a much more cost-effective solution.
Basically, you have 1 to x rows for the meter; nothing should really be installed above that (upper connection compartment). Next to it, there is usually a distribution panel installed (in most cases empty). Above that, circuit breakers, RCDs, etc. can be installed. Additionally, about 30% space for expansion should be provided. That would be an absolute minimum, with a width of 55cm (22 inches). One more row, so about 80cm (31 inches) wide for a standard single-family house with one meter and nothing special, would be the absolute minimum to properly accommodate a few RCDs, circuit breakers, and so on. With photovoltaic systems, storage, possibly roller shutter controls, and use of terminal blocks, I would recommend going up to 1m (39 inches) in width.
A side note: do not install the network equipment inside the electrical cabinet. It is expensive and takes up unnecessary space. It’s better to use a simple patch panel and install the switch/router in a small cabinet mounted near the ceiling, which is a much more cost-effective solution.
A
Alessandro2 Feb 2022 10:19It could have been made much smaller as well....
I’m afraid I have to disagree with you 🙁 The electrician could not have made it smaller while complying with the current requirements from the utility company.
Below the meters are the busbars (yellow-green), so that area is fully occupied. Above the meters (red) is the upper connection compartment. In this space, usually only the main fuse and outgoing connections are allowed. The black area is mostly the empty APZ field (for smart meters or similar devices), and the visible components on the left could have just fitted into the second row from the left without needing additional expansion space. There may also be distribution terminals or similar components not visible there.
Below the meters are the busbars (yellow-green), so that area is fully occupied. Above the meters (red) is the upper connection compartment. In this space, usually only the main fuse and outgoing connections are allowed. The black area is mostly the empty APZ field (for smart meters or similar devices), and the visible components on the left could have just fitted into the second row from the left without needing additional expansion space. There may also be distribution terminals or similar components not visible there.
A
Alessandro2 Feb 2022 10:56Ah, okay, thanks for the clarification.
Still, I don’t understand how it was possible to save so much space with other new builds using the same technology and a much smaller utility room 🙁
Still, I don’t understand how it was possible to save so much space with other new builds using the same technology and a much smaller utility room 🙁
borxx schrieb:
A quick note: don’t install the network equipment inside the electrical cabinet—it’s expensive and takes up unnecessary space. It’s better to use a simple patch panel and then place the switch/router in a small cabinet mounted near the ceiling to save costs.
That’s a good point, but I’m not entirely sure why you want to add a switch between the router and the end devices. Usually, any router can handle that natively. Are you referring to situations where there are too many end devices (if the router only has 4 ports)?
Similar topics