ᐅ Timber-frame house with natural swimming pond and garden sauna
Created on: 29 Jan 2017 16:46
M
MundS
Hello Forum,
Greetings to everyone; as a previously silent reader, I admire the expertise and the open, straightforward manner of those offering help.
We are Steffi, 36, Lisa, almost 11, and I (Matthias), 46, currently planning the project of a lifetime.
About the project:
We want to build a passive wooden house with roughly 120-130m² (1,290-1,400 sq ft) of living space in a bungalow style with a gable roof (shoebox shape with approximately 3m (10 ft) ceiling height).
The house will have narrow strip windows on two sides (street side/north side), while the south and east sides will be opened up with large window installations.
In the garden, we plan to build a carport/garage and a natural swimming pond with an outdoor sauna.
The facade will be wooden (likely thermo-spruce) with aluminum windows featuring a Uw value under 0.8 W/m²K.
The facade and windows will come from my employer (a large company specializing in timber construction); the planner and architect authorized to submit plans is in-house.
I am personally responsible for the windows.
All other trades will be contracted based on my employer’s recommendations (foundation slab/floors/ventilation system) and commissioned independently.
The floor plan is currently being developed and the plot is being purchased (19 x 39m (62 x 128 ft)).
My question, and here I hope for your support: what type of hot water preparation/ventilation is really sensible?
I have read about concrete core activation, air-to-air heat pumps, air-to-water heat pumps, heating coils, and heat pumps in general. Who has a passive house or experience in this field and can enlighten us before the heating or ventilation installer guides us in the “wrong” direction?
We would rather not use solar panels; I’m considering a wind turbine (the location allows for it) and sufficient clearance distances are well observed. The rotor should not be the classic 3-blade type but more like a Darrieus rotor with about 1 kW output for self-consumption.
The reason is neighborhood-friendly operation: no flickering shadows and quieter running noise.
Those are the key facts—thank you and best regards, Steffi and Matthias
Greetings to everyone; as a previously silent reader, I admire the expertise and the open, straightforward manner of those offering help.
We are Steffi, 36, Lisa, almost 11, and I (Matthias), 46, currently planning the project of a lifetime.
About the project:
We want to build a passive wooden house with roughly 120-130m² (1,290-1,400 sq ft) of living space in a bungalow style with a gable roof (shoebox shape with approximately 3m (10 ft) ceiling height).
The house will have narrow strip windows on two sides (street side/north side), while the south and east sides will be opened up with large window installations.
In the garden, we plan to build a carport/garage and a natural swimming pond with an outdoor sauna.
The facade will be wooden (likely thermo-spruce) with aluminum windows featuring a Uw value under 0.8 W/m²K.
The facade and windows will come from my employer (a large company specializing in timber construction); the planner and architect authorized to submit plans is in-house.
I am personally responsible for the windows.
All other trades will be contracted based on my employer’s recommendations (foundation slab/floors/ventilation system) and commissioned independently.
The floor plan is currently being developed and the plot is being purchased (19 x 39m (62 x 128 ft)).
My question, and here I hope for your support: what type of hot water preparation/ventilation is really sensible?
I have read about concrete core activation, air-to-air heat pumps, air-to-water heat pumps, heating coils, and heat pumps in general. Who has a passive house or experience in this field and can enlighten us before the heating or ventilation installer guides us in the “wrong” direction?
We would rather not use solar panels; I’m considering a wind turbine (the location allows for it) and sufficient clearance distances are well observed. The rotor should not be the classic 3-blade type but more like a Darrieus rotor with about 1 kW output for self-consumption.
The reason is neighborhood-friendly operation: no flickering shadows and quieter running noise.
Those are the key facts—thank you and best regards, Steffi and Matthias
I have been around here for a while, but I can’t recall anyone in this forum having actually built a passive house. There have been some plans mentioned here and there, but I don’t know if any of them were actually carried out. So, it’s naturally difficult to get advice on heating or domestic hot water systems here. I think you might be better off in the forum mentioned by Bieber0815.
If your employer builds timber houses, can you not get any firsthand experience or reports there?
Regarding timber houses specifically, the user @blockhauspower comes to mind.
If your employer builds timber houses, can you not get any firsthand experience or reports there?
Regarding timber houses specifically, the user @blockhauspower comes to mind.
Hello everyone,
I’d like to provide an update.
By chance and luck, we found and purchased a vacant lot in a very quiet street.
The 719m2 (about 7,730 sq ft) plot and all related purchase costs were paid from our own funds.
My employer has started the planning, including structural engineering and the thermal insulation certification.
The building permit / planning permission application should be submitted in about four weeks.
A few minor changes have been made: we will have a flat roof with a raised parapet. The concrete core activation will be omitted, and instead, there will be a highly insulated slab-on-grade floor without underfloor heating.
Aluminum windows (RC2) and doors (RC3) from Sch..o in the passive house version—that’s actually my area of expertise.
The interior doors will also come from the same manufacturer and will be 3m (10 ft) high, including transom windows. They will be glazed with 42dB glass, and for the bathroom and bedrooms, the glass will have a frosted film.
Next, we will collect and award quotes for electrical work, plumbing, and the heat pump.
Best regards from Steffi, Lisa, and me...
I’d like to provide an update.
By chance and luck, we found and purchased a vacant lot in a very quiet street.
The 719m2 (about 7,730 sq ft) plot and all related purchase costs were paid from our own funds.
My employer has started the planning, including structural engineering and the thermal insulation certification.
The building permit / planning permission application should be submitted in about four weeks.
A few minor changes have been made: we will have a flat roof with a raised parapet. The concrete core activation will be omitted, and instead, there will be a highly insulated slab-on-grade floor without underfloor heating.
Aluminum windows (RC2) and doors (RC3) from Sch..o in the passive house version—that’s actually my area of expertise.
The interior doors will also come from the same manufacturer and will be 3m (10 ft) high, including transom windows. They will be glazed with 42dB glass, and for the bathroom and bedrooms, the glass will have a frosted film.
Next, we will collect and award quotes for electrical work, plumbing, and the heat pump.
Best regards from Steffi, Lisa, and me...
U
Username_wahl13 May 2017 00:12A passive house probably doesn't make financial sense, but reaching KfW55 standards was no problem for us.
...since we are already building with a timber frame construction method, moving to a passive house–compatible wall is not a big or costly step.
However, building passive and therefore sustainably has to be done out of conviction; this is written by someone who has been cycling to work for around 20 years, covering between 10,000 and 16,000 km (6,200 and 9,900 miles) annually.
Currently, it’s 21 km (13 miles) one way in all weather conditions, including winter.
When I compare our house building costs with those who build conventionally and often include many, sometimes unnecessary, extras (like fully networked homes), we are competitive.
And our windows and doors open and close without tablets or electricity.
Regards, Matthias
However, building passive and therefore sustainably has to be done out of conviction; this is written by someone who has been cycling to work for around 20 years, covering between 10,000 and 16,000 km (6,200 and 9,900 miles) annually.
Currently, it’s 21 km (13 miles) one way in all weather conditions, including winter.
When I compare our house building costs with those who build conventionally and often include many, sometimes unnecessary, extras (like fully networked homes), we are competitive.
And our windows and doors open and close without tablets or electricity.
Regards, Matthias
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