ᐅ Timber-frame house with natural swimming pond and garden sauna
Created on: 29 Jan 2017 16:46
M
MundSHello Forum,
Greetings to everyone; as a previously silent reader, I admire the expertise and the open, straightforward manner of those offering help.
We are Steffi, 36, Lisa, almost 11, and I (Matthias), 46, currently planning the project of a lifetime.
About the project:
We want to build a passive wooden house with roughly 120-130m² (1,290-1,400 sq ft) of living space in a bungalow style with a gable roof (shoebox shape with approximately 3m (10 ft) ceiling height).
The house will have narrow strip windows on two sides (street side/north side), while the south and east sides will be opened up with large window installations.
In the garden, we plan to build a carport/garage and a natural swimming pond with an outdoor sauna.
The facade will be wooden (likely thermo-spruce) with aluminum windows featuring a Uw value under 0.8 W/m²K.
The facade and windows will come from my employer (a large company specializing in timber construction); the planner and architect authorized to submit plans is in-house.
I am personally responsible for the windows.
All other trades will be contracted based on my employer’s recommendations (foundation slab/floors/ventilation system) and commissioned independently.
The floor plan is currently being developed and the plot is being purchased (19 x 39m (62 x 128 ft)).
My question, and here I hope for your support: what type of hot water preparation/ventilation is really sensible?
I have read about concrete core activation, air-to-air heat pumps, air-to-water heat pumps, heating coils, and heat pumps in general. Who has a passive house or experience in this field and can enlighten us before the heating or ventilation installer guides us in the “wrong” direction?
We would rather not use solar panels; I’m considering a wind turbine (the location allows for it) and sufficient clearance distances are well observed. The rotor should not be the classic 3-blade type but more like a Darrieus rotor with about 1 kW output for self-consumption.
The reason is neighborhood-friendly operation: no flickering shadows and quieter running noise.
Those are the key facts—thank you and best regards, Steffi and Matthias
Greetings to everyone; as a previously silent reader, I admire the expertise and the open, straightforward manner of those offering help.
We are Steffi, 36, Lisa, almost 11, and I (Matthias), 46, currently planning the project of a lifetime.
About the project:
We want to build a passive wooden house with roughly 120-130m² (1,290-1,400 sq ft) of living space in a bungalow style with a gable roof (shoebox shape with approximately 3m (10 ft) ceiling height).
The house will have narrow strip windows on two sides (street side/north side), while the south and east sides will be opened up with large window installations.
In the garden, we plan to build a carport/garage and a natural swimming pond with an outdoor sauna.
The facade will be wooden (likely thermo-spruce) with aluminum windows featuring a Uw value under 0.8 W/m²K.
The facade and windows will come from my employer (a large company specializing in timber construction); the planner and architect authorized to submit plans is in-house.
I am personally responsible for the windows.
All other trades will be contracted based on my employer’s recommendations (foundation slab/floors/ventilation system) and commissioned independently.
The floor plan is currently being developed and the plot is being purchased (19 x 39m (62 x 128 ft)).
My question, and here I hope for your support: what type of hot water preparation/ventilation is really sensible?
I have read about concrete core activation, air-to-air heat pumps, air-to-water heat pumps, heating coils, and heat pumps in general. Who has a passive house or experience in this field and can enlighten us before the heating or ventilation installer guides us in the “wrong” direction?
We would rather not use solar panels; I’m considering a wind turbine (the location allows for it) and sufficient clearance distances are well observed. The rotor should not be the classic 3-blade type but more like a Darrieus rotor with about 1 kW output for self-consumption.
The reason is neighborhood-friendly operation: no flickering shadows and quieter running noise.
Those are the key facts—thank you and best regards, Steffi and Matthias
Addendum:
Not only is the facade provided by my employer, but the entire timber house is delivered complete and ready on the foundation slab.
I have another question: is it advisable to build the interior walls as solid constructions to achieve better sound insulation and to use the thermal mass to balance temperature fluctuations?
Thanks and best regards, Steffi and Matthias
Not only is the facade provided by my employer, but the entire timber house is delivered complete and ready on the foundation slab.
I have another question: is it advisable to build the interior walls as solid constructions to achieve better sound insulation and to use the thermal mass to balance temperature fluctuations?
Thanks and best regards, Steffi and Matthias
B
Bieber08151 Feb 2017 21:43MundS schrieb:
A carport/garage and a natural swimming pond with an outdoor sauna are planned for the garden. I’m just plain jealous :P and have to admit I know nothing about passive houses... (There’s a forum specifically for building services engineering, its colors remind me of a major telecommunications provider).
At our place, an air-to-water heat pump provides hot water and heats the house, built to KfW 70 standard after 2015.
Hi,
Your questions are somewhat specific; I had to look up what concrete core activation is. At first, it sounded like some kind of esoteric concrete... 😉 But it seems to be just underfloor heating, nothing more. What is the advantage? You still need a heat pump for heating, and many heat pumps can also provide cooling in summer when combined with underfloor heating.
However, the cooling capacity will likely be minimal unless you want extremely cold surfaces inside the house. They mention this themselves on various pages...
But do you need the "heating" only for domestic hot water or also for heating the house? A passive house should actually do without any heating system, right?
Given your plot size and the relatively mild climate in Münsterland (my home region! 🙂), a ground source heat pump would be a good option. Our neighbors have one with a trench collector they installed themselves in the garden.
Interior walls made of masonry certainly make sense, but that would contradict the idea of a timber frame or prefab house.
Is that even feasible structurally?
Best regards,
Andreas
MundS schrieb:
...are my questions too easy, too difficult, too specific, or too superficial?
Your questions are somewhat specific; I had to look up what concrete core activation is. At first, it sounded like some kind of esoteric concrete... 😉 But it seems to be just underfloor heating, nothing more. What is the advantage? You still need a heat pump for heating, and many heat pumps can also provide cooling in summer when combined with underfloor heating.
However, the cooling capacity will likely be minimal unless you want extremely cold surfaces inside the house. They mention this themselves on various pages...
But do you need the "heating" only for domestic hot water or also for heating the house? A passive house should actually do without any heating system, right?
Given your plot size and the relatively mild climate in Münsterland (my home region! 🙂), a ground source heat pump would be a good option. Our neighbors have one with a trench collector they installed themselves in the garden.
Interior walls made of masonry certainly make sense, but that would contradict the idea of a timber frame or prefab house.
Is that even feasible structurally?
Best regards,
Andreas
Similar topics