We have just had about 100 forest trees (mainly firs, spruces, and pines) cut down on our building plot, and we are currently unsure about what to do with the tree roots.
What is certain for us is that they should be removed with an excavator. However, the question is what is the best way to handle the roots afterward.
One company suggests mulching the roots and mixing the mulch with the topsoil on our property. The other company would mulch the roots but then haul the mulch away. Naturally, the second option is significantly more expensive.
Does anyone have experience with whether it makes sense to mix the mulch with the topsoil? We wonder if it will be possible later to properly establish a garden with lawn and such on that. What is generally the best approach to transforming forest soil into a garden? At the moment, there are, of course, many seeds in the soil, so new small trees grow back quickly.
What is certain for us is that they should be removed with an excavator. However, the question is what is the best way to handle the roots afterward.
One company suggests mulching the roots and mixing the mulch with the topsoil on our property. The other company would mulch the roots but then haul the mulch away. Naturally, the second option is significantly more expensive.
Does anyone have experience with whether it makes sense to mix the mulch with the topsoil? We wonder if it will be possible later to properly establish a garden with lawn and such on that. What is generally the best approach to transforming forest soil into a garden? At the moment, there are, of course, many seeds in the soil, so new small trees grow back quickly.
Vicky Pedia12 Jan 2020 13:05Hello,
mulching is generally a good idea. Transporting soil at high cost is the worst option. I would have it mulched and piled up. Mixing it in is indeed problematic if you plan to establish a lawn there. First, finish the construction and landscape the garden; then you can use the mulch to cover flower beds and similar areas or give some away to neighbors.
Forest soil is generally acidic, which can be neutralized with lime fertilizer. Additionally, I would consider bringing in some topsoil as a surface layer. The rest is a matter of time—and a lot of weeding. However, forest soil usually has little weed growth.
mulching is generally a good idea. Transporting soil at high cost is the worst option. I would have it mulched and piled up. Mixing it in is indeed problematic if you plan to establish a lawn there. First, finish the construction and landscape the garden; then you can use the mulch to cover flower beds and similar areas or give some away to neighbors.
Forest soil is generally acidic, which can be neutralized with lime fertilizer. Additionally, I would consider bringing in some topsoil as a surface layer. The rest is a matter of time—and a lot of weeding. However, forest soil usually has little weed growth.
H
hampshire12 Jan 2020 13:57marco72 schrieb:
Does anyone have experience with whether it makes sense to mix mulch material with topsoil? Yes, that works well, but it depends on the amount used. Decomposition can be accelerated in very nutrient-rich soil using effective microorganisms (EM).
Mulch is also very suitable for creating paths. Furthermore, mulch on the surface helps keep areas prone to dryness more moist and makes it harder for competing plants to grow—for example, in a small front garden among many stones or in flower pots.
marco72 schrieb:
We are wondering if it is even possible to successfully establish a garden with lawn, etc., on this later. If there is too much root mulch mixed into the soil, it will be difficult for a lawn to establish well. Other plants will benefit more.
marco72 schrieb:
What is the best approach in general for transforming forest soil into a garden? This is done by choosing plants that thrive in forest soil rather than randomly selecting exotic plants based only on appearance. The layout of the areas (bed, lawn, path, terrace, pond, play area, structures, etc.) is not very dependent on the soil.
Get advice to create a garden that you like and suits your needs, while also incorporating a piece of nature rather than a lifeless “green desert.”
It makes sense.
Proceed as follows.
Apply mulch and pile it up.
Build.
Shape the garden terrain.
Turn or deeply loosen the compacted construction soil.
Rake in the mulch.
Sow grass seed.
Roll the soil to firm it.
When it begins to sprout, apply a small amount of fertilizer: potassium, magnesium, nitrogen, sulfur, phosphorus. Available at garden centers or agricultural suppliers. Potassium neutralizes acidic soil, magnesium strengthens roots, nitrogen acts as fertilizer, sulfur and phosphorus loosen the soil and make it favorable for earthworms.
Once established, mow repeatedly. The grass will then outcompete all other plants. The remaining wood mulch decomposes in the soil, providing long-term fertilization and also loosening the soil.
Bringing in extra topsoil is, in my opinion, unnecessary. We established a lush green lawn directly on the construction site soil without adding any topsoil. No sod, just traditional seeding. Karsten
Proceed as follows.
Apply mulch and pile it up.
Build.
Shape the garden terrain.
Turn or deeply loosen the compacted construction soil.
Rake in the mulch.
Sow grass seed.
Roll the soil to firm it.
When it begins to sprout, apply a small amount of fertilizer: potassium, magnesium, nitrogen, sulfur, phosphorus. Available at garden centers or agricultural suppliers. Potassium neutralizes acidic soil, magnesium strengthens roots, nitrogen acts as fertilizer, sulfur and phosphorus loosen the soil and make it favorable for earthworms.
Once established, mow repeatedly. The grass will then outcompete all other plants. The remaining wood mulch decomposes in the soil, providing long-term fertilization and also loosening the soil.
Bringing in extra topsoil is, in my opinion, unnecessary. We established a lush green lawn directly on the construction site soil without adding any topsoil. No sod, just traditional seeding. Karsten
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