ᐅ KALLAX: Adding Feet Yourself by Drilling – Will It Last in the Long Term?

Hello everyone,

A few weeks ago, I added feet to my IKEA KALLAX shelf, but I drilled the holes myself because I didn’t want to use the pre-made ones. Overall, it looks quite neat now, but I’m wondering how sturdy and durable this DIY solution really is in the long run.

My main concern is: Can I expect the self-drilled holes and the way the feet are attached to hold up under the weight and stress over time, or is there a higher risk of the wood splitting or the feet becoming loose?

I reinforced the whole setup with wood screws and a bit of wood glue, but I’m not sure if that’s enough, especially since the KALLAX material isn’t solid wood but more of a particleboard with a thin veneer.

I’m looking forward to hearing about your experiences and any advice, especially if anyone has done similar modifications and how they held up over months or years. Thanks in advance!

Hey mau69, it’s great that you’re taking matters into your own hands and adding feet to your KALLAX! 🙂

In my experience, this can hold up quite well, especially if you combine screws with wood glue – that’s a perfect duo for securing the connection! It’s important that the screws are long enough and not too short so they can grip the material properly.

I tried something similar myself – after about a year, everything is still rock solid, nothing wobbles or loosens. Of course, the KALLAX isn’t a professional shelf for heavy loads, but it’s more than enough for books, decorations, or plants.

So: don’t give up, and if you’re worried, you can always reinforce it with small metal brackets. But I think you’re on the right track! Good luck! :-)

Hello mau69,

First of all, you’ve asked a very precise question. The topic of load-bearing capacity and long-term stability with self-drilled feet on a KALLAX shelf is indeed relevant, as there are several influencing factors.

The main issue is that KALLAX is made from particleboard with a melamine coating, which inherently does not provide high tensile or shear strength at the screw connections. The connection primarily relies on the compressive resistance of the particleboard and the anchoring of the screw. With self-drilled holes, it is crucial not to drill too close to the edge of the material, as this increases the risk of cracking.

Another aspect is the screw length: if they are too short, the connection will not hold adequately; if they are too long, the screw can protrude through the other side and damage the surface. I recommend screws with a diameter of at least 4mm (0.16 inches) and a length that is at least 2 to 2.5 times the thickness of the panel.

Also important: pre-drilling is essential to prevent splitting. Use a drill bit that is slightly smaller than the screw diameter; this way the screw holds better than if the pilot hole is too large.

Regarding durability: if the shelf is only statically loaded (books, decorations), it will hold up over time, provided the screws are tight and no movement occurs at the joint. Dynamic loads (frequent movement, shifting) are more critical, as screws can loosen over time.

Finally, a tip: if durability is more important to you, you can insert small plywood pieces between the shelf board and the feet to increase the pressure area and better secure the screws.

I would be interested to know exactly how you use the shelf and approximately how heavy the load is?

Domau0 schrieb:
I’m curious about how exactly you use the shelf and how heavy the load is estimated to be?

Thank you for the detailed and technically sound answer! Regarding usage: the shelf is actually located in my home office and holds a mix of books, some heavy binders, and light decoration. I’d estimate the total load at around 30–40 kg (66–88 lbs), distributed across the individual shelves. There’s no constant movement or slipping, but occasional loading and unloading.

I installed screws with a 4 mm (0.16 inch) diameter and pre-drilled the holes, although not with a significantly smaller drill bit, but one that was almost exactly the right size for the screw—which I think worked quite well. The screws are about 25 mm (1 inch) long.

Using laminated wood panels as a bearing surface is an interesting idea—I’ll look into finding something suitable to insert.

Do you have any tips on how to tell if the joint is loosening or at risk of failing? I want to be able to intervene early, before any damage occurs.

Regarding the stability of self-drilled feet on a KALLAX shelf unit, the following can be added:

With chipboard material like that used in KALLAX, there is always a risk that screws may loosen or pull out over time, especially if the load is concentrated or applied at an angle. The screw diameter of 4 mm (0.16 inches) and a length of 25 mm (1 inch) are generally acceptable, provided that precise pilot holes have been drilled.

Signs of a loosening connection include:
- wobbling or noticeable tilting of the feet under load
- visible cracks or chipping at the edges of the mounting point
- changed gaps or movement when tapped

If any of these signs occur, retightening the screws is possible, but if there is significant material wear, it is better to reinforce the connection. Useful accessories for this are special insert nuts or anchors that provide additional fixing and support.

If the feet are subjected to stronger dynamic forces, considering a cross brace or metal brackets for stabilization is recommended.

In principle, a KALLAX unit under moderate load with properly installed screws will remain durable in the medium term; long-term durability strongly depends on usage and care.

Hello mau69 and all interested parties,

I would like to provide a brief guide on how to securely attach feet to a KALLAX shelf unit afterwards to achieve long-term durability.

1. Preparation:
- Check materials: As mentioned before, KALLAX is made of coated particleboard, so be careful when drilling.
- Drill bit: Use a wood drill bit that is slightly smaller than the screw diameter – for example, use a 3.5mm (1/8 inch) drill bit for 4mm screws.
- Pre-drilling prevents cracking and improves durability.

2. Screw selection:
- Use stainless steel or galvanized screws, about 4mm (5/32 inch) in diameter, at least twice the thickness of the panel (~19mm (3/4 inch), so 38mm (1 1/2 inch) is ideal, 25mm (1 inch) is the minimum).
- If possible, use longer screws to gain as much grip in the material as possible.

3. Installation:
- Mark the foot positions precisely to ensure even placement and avoid misalignment.
- Pre-drill holes (remember to countersink so the screw heads sit flush).
- Use a screwdriver with torque control or a drill with low torque to avoid overloading the material.

4. Reinforcement:
- Insert small wooden battens or laminated wood pieces (e.g., 12mm (1/2 inch) thick) between the shelf and feet to distribute pressure and relieve the material.
- Alternatively, consider using threaded inserts or plastic anchors.

5. Maintenance:
- Check the screws after about 3 months and tighten if necessary.

Summary: In general, retrofitting feet to a KALLAX unit by drilling and mounting with care and appropriate screws is a practical solution that can last long-term. The main risks are improper pre-drilling, screws that are too short or too thin, and excessive load on a small area.

If you have any questions or need detailed recommendations, feel free to ask!