Hi,
I have already read a few threads, but I still have a question.
We are getting a guest toilet in our new home, and we are adding a shower to it. The guest toilet will have about 3 square meters (32 square feet) of floor space and will have underfloor heating (like all rooms). According to the construction company, because of the shower, we now have to install a towel radiator. I assume this is related to the heat demand calculation. But is that really the case? Can they require this, or can I insist that the underfloor heating in the small bathroom is just laid more densely? It is also not yet decided whether the radiator will be electric or connected to the underfloor heating system. The latter doesn’t seem to make much sense either.
Best regards
Sebastian
I have already read a few threads, but I still have a question.
We are getting a guest toilet in our new home, and we are adding a shower to it. The guest toilet will have about 3 square meters (32 square feet) of floor space and will have underfloor heating (like all rooms). According to the construction company, because of the shower, we now have to install a towel radiator. I assume this is related to the heat demand calculation. But is that really the case? Can they require this, or can I insist that the underfloor heating in the small bathroom is just laid more densely? It is also not yet decided whether the radiator will be electric or connected to the underfloor heating system. The latter doesn’t seem to make much sense either.
Best regards
Sebastian
P
Peanuts7415 Jan 2016 10:59Ok, with an additional furnace, that should work, depending on the temperature you usually have.
Do you not have room thermostats, so that it got too warm for you???
Do you not have room thermostats, so that it got too warm for you???
Hello @Peanuts74,
The topic of room thermostats has already been discussed frequently in this forum. If you have a heat pump, you should keep your flow temperature as low as possible to heat efficiently. You can control this through your desired setpoint temperature and the heating curve. A higher flow temperature combined with limiting via room thermostats is not advisable.
Currently, at an outdoor temperature of 0°C (32°F), our flow temperature is 29°C (84°F). This is probably also because we ventilate 2-3 times per day without a ventilation system. The indoor temperature throughout the house is around 22°C (72°F), including the bathroom.
We have only used the towel radiator for testing so far. Using it during transitional seasons might be practical, as it could allow the heating function of the air-to-water heat pump to be switched off a bit earlier.
The topic of room thermostats has already been discussed frequently in this forum. If you have a heat pump, you should keep your flow temperature as low as possible to heat efficiently. You can control this through your desired setpoint temperature and the heating curve. A higher flow temperature combined with limiting via room thermostats is not advisable.
Currently, at an outdoor temperature of 0°C (32°F), our flow temperature is 29°C (84°F). This is probably also because we ventilate 2-3 times per day without a ventilation system. The indoor temperature throughout the house is around 22°C (72°F), including the bathroom.
We have only used the towel radiator for testing so far. Using it during transitional seasons might be practical, as it could allow the heating function of the air-to-water heat pump to be switched off a bit earlier.
D
Doc.Schnaggls15 Jan 2016 11:17@Peanuts74:
@Jochen104 has already explained it very well.
Our installer recommended setting the room thermostats fully to the highest setting in the rooms where we want it warmest (bathroom and guest bathroom) and controlling the desired temperature there by adjusting the flow temperature.
In the other rooms, the control is then managed via the room thermostats.
He said this type of control makes sense because the air-to-water heat pump only produces the maximum required flow temperature, which is then delivered "unrestricted" in the rooms that need to be warmest.
If you control these rooms with the room thermostats as well, the air-to-water heat pump runs, in his words, "pointlessly at full power" and produces more heat (and costs) than necessary, since even the warmest rooms are sometimes "throttled."
Best regards,
Dirk
@Jochen104 has already explained it very well.
Our installer recommended setting the room thermostats fully to the highest setting in the rooms where we want it warmest (bathroom and guest bathroom) and controlling the desired temperature there by adjusting the flow temperature.
In the other rooms, the control is then managed via the room thermostats.
He said this type of control makes sense because the air-to-water heat pump only produces the maximum required flow temperature, which is then delivered "unrestricted" in the rooms that need to be warmest.
If you control these rooms with the room thermostats as well, the air-to-water heat pump runs, in his words, "pointlessly at full power" and produces more heat (and costs) than necessary, since even the warmest rooms are sometimes "throttled."
Best regards,
Dirk
P
Peanuts7415 Jan 2016 12:21It’s clear that the flow temperature should be as low as possible. However, since I am also familiar with apartments without thermostats, I wanted to ask, as it sounded a bit unclear.
I also experimented for a long time until I settled on 30°C (86°F) flow temperature at 0°C (32°F) outside temperature and an appropriate slope. However, we also have around 24°C (75°F) in the living room and no fireplace or similar.
The heating mostly runs continuously; only when the window hasn’t been opened for a while or cooking hasn’t taken place does the thermostat sometimes switch off. But I estimate the heating runs more than 80% of the time, so I would say it’s not too hot.
I also experimented for a long time until I settled on 30°C (86°F) flow temperature at 0°C (32°F) outside temperature and an appropriate slope. However, we also have around 24°C (75°F) in the living room and no fireplace or similar.
The heating mostly runs continuously; only when the window hasn’t been opened for a while or cooking hasn’t taken place does the thermostat sometimes switch off. But I estimate the heating runs more than 80% of the time, so I would say it’s not too hot.
Doc.Schnaggls schrieb:
@ypg
I’m afraid I have to disagree with you here.
At the very beginning, we once forgot to turn off our heated towel rail in the main bathroom after showering in the evening.
The next morning, the temperature in the fairly large bathroom was just over 29°C (84°F).
A properly sized heated towel rail can therefore also be effectively used to provide additional heating.
Best regards,
Dirk 
We currently have an indoor temperature of 22.5°C (72.5°F) with an outdoor temperature of -4°C (25°F) and a supply temperature of 31°C (88°F).
My question is, I have set the temperature in our secondary apartment to 18°C (64°F) because it is still in shell condition. Would it be better to adjust the temperature, or how should I proceed? It has its own heating circuit but is connected to the shared air-to-water heat pump.
What would be the best approach to avoid wasting energy unnecessarily?
My question is, I have set the temperature in our secondary apartment to 18°C (64°F) because it is still in shell condition. Would it be better to adjust the temperature, or how should I proceed? It has its own heating circuit but is connected to the shared air-to-water heat pump.
What would be the best approach to avoid wasting energy unnecessarily?
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