I have now had three contractors come to seal our garage roof, and I have received three different opinions and price quotes.
For a 6x6 meter (20x20 feet) garage, the prices range from 1400 to 3800 euros.
I just want a watertight garage that doesn’t develop mold inside.
What is the correct method for sealing a garage roof?
Are two layers of bitumen enough?
Is a layer of insulation required in between?
Is a vapor barrier needed?
How was it done in your case?
For a 6x6 meter (20x20 feet) garage, the prices range from 1400 to 3800 euros.
I just want a watertight garage that doesn’t develop mold inside.
What is the correct method for sealing a garage roof?
Are two layers of bitumen enough?
Is a layer of insulation required in between?
Is a vapor barrier needed?
How was it done in your case?
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Sebastian795 Jul 2016 22:22No, it is not a must – but definitely not the worst idea. Also, it is not expensive...
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Goldi091115 Jul 2016 22:27Thank you for the information, we will add this to our list of "points to clarify."
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Bieber08155 Jul 2016 23:26Goldi09111 schrieb:
Is it generally necessary to insulate the garage (when it is directly attached to the house including access to the utility room)? Whether or not you insulate, adequate ventilation is, in my opinion, important (especially if the car is driven in and out daily). Additionally, I would insulate the roof (!) to keep the extreme heat out during summer. A good alternative is green roofing.
Sebastian79 schrieb:
I park a warm car inside – every day it’s warm again in no time – for hours I find it hard to believe that a warm car would release enough heat energy to significantly warm an insulated but well-ventilated garage when it’s really cold outside. The thermal mass of the walls and floor alone is probably so high that there isn’t much change, especially if this happens only once a day.
sent from elsewhere
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Sebastian796 Jul 2016 10:09Unfortunately, I can’t help with your lack of imagination – well, you won’t get far with a small 4-cylinder diesel engine either.
By the way, I wouldn’t ventilate it during winter unless there’s a wet car inside.
By the way, I wouldn’t ventilate it during winter unless there’s a wet car inside.
Unfortunately, at least here, the weather is cold and wet. For me, it would be too much effort to constantly ventilate or not ventilate depending on the situation. Should the ventilation openings be opened or closed depending on the weather? That would be too much work to change hundreds of times a year. I don’t drive a diesel at all, but if you don’t have stop-and-go city traffic right in front of the house, a car in winter doesn’t really get warm. Apart from a few engine parts, there isn’t much warm mass inside. The best test is to sit in the car without the engine or heater for a few minutes in winter and see how quickly it cools down.
Sent from the road
Edit: Nowadays, a four-cylinder engine is no longer considered small. Small engines are three-cylinder ones, which already have over 100 horsepower (hp), making them more than practical for everyday use.
Sent from the road
Edit: Nowadays, a four-cylinder engine is no longer considered small. Small engines are three-cylinder ones, which already have over 100 horsepower (hp), making them more than practical for everyday use.
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