Dear Forum,
Something just came to mind while planning our kitchen: we want to separate the cooktop and the oven/microwave in the room. The cooktop will be installed on the wall where there is an existing high-voltage connection.
The oven, microwave, and refrigerator will be installed at countertop height on the opposite side. There are only standard electrical outlets available there. Could this cause a problem?
In the installation instructions, for example for the Kulinarisk oven, it looks like you need to connect wiring rather than simply plugging in the oven’s power cord.
Something just came to mind while planning our kitchen: we want to separate the cooktop and the oven/microwave in the room. The cooktop will be installed on the wall where there is an existing high-voltage connection.
The oven, microwave, and refrigerator will be installed at countertop height on the opposite side. There are only standard electrical outlets available there. Could this cause a problem?
In the installation instructions, for example for the Kulinarisk oven, it looks like you need to connect wiring rather than simply plugging in the oven’s power cord.
I
IKEA-Experte7 Oct 2016 21:30Hello,
For example, the Kulinarisk with pyrolysis states:
Minimum required fuse: 16 A.
Voltage: 220-240 V.
For fixed installation. Must be connected by a qualified electrician.
The manual also specifies: Total power 3480 W.
With a power of 3480 W, the current is 15.13 A. Regardless of whether the oven is plugged into a socket or hardwired, the power rating requires a dedicated circuit breaker for the connection.
In other words, an electrician must run a dedicated line for the oven from the electrical panel.
For example, the Kulinarisk with pyrolysis states:
Minimum required fuse: 16 A.
Voltage: 220-240 V.
For fixed installation. Must be connected by a qualified electrician.
The manual also specifies: Total power 3480 W.
With a power of 3480 W, the current is 15.13 A. Regardless of whether the oven is plugged into a socket or hardwired, the power rating requires a dedicated circuit breaker for the connection.
In other words, an electrician must run a dedicated line for the oven from the electrical panel.
I
IKEA-Experte7 Oct 2016 21:32The same may apply to the microwave depending on the model.
Hello,
I am also in the process of installing a new kitchen and have a similar setup:
So far, I have connected the stove ceramic cooktop to a stove connection box (protected by 3 circuit breakers).
The "new" induction cooktop will stay in the same place and should be able to connect to the existing stove connection box without any issues.
The oven "Kulinarisk" and steam cooker "Kulinarisk" need to be installed on the other side of the kitchen. I am planning to use 2 new circuit breakers and run 3 x 1.5 mm² cables from there.
Question:
Should I also connect both appliances with stove connection boxes?
Will the power ratings be sufficient?
Thank you very much.
Best regards,
Jens
I am also in the process of installing a new kitchen and have a similar setup:
So far, I have connected the stove ceramic cooktop to a stove connection box (protected by 3 circuit breakers).
The "new" induction cooktop will stay in the same place and should be able to connect to the existing stove connection box without any issues.
The oven "Kulinarisk" and steam cooker "Kulinarisk" need to be installed on the other side of the kitchen. I am planning to use 2 new circuit breakers and run 3 x 1.5 mm² cables from there.
Question:
Should I also connect both appliances with stove connection boxes?
Will the power ratings be sufficient?
Thank you very much.
Best regards,
Jens
K
KnolleJupp15 Nov 2016 22:49The oven requires a single phase, meaning 1 x 16 amps. You could fit a standard Schuko plug on the oven’s power cable and plug it into a regular socket. Ideally, this socket should be on a separate circuit breaker since the oven can draw almost the full 16 amps from the outlet depending on usage.
The induction cooktop needs 2 phases, each at 16 amps. So theoretically (and practically), you could use the existing cooker connection outlet where three phases should be available (so 5 cables: 3 phases, 1 neutral, 1 protective earth) to power both.
--> one phase for the oven, two phases for the induction cooktop
This is allowed and commonly done when a standard cooker, consisting of an oven plus a cooktop (which requires three phases), is replaced by a combination of an oven and a separate cooktop.
I have done this at home as well. Only difference is that I also connected the microwave, which is directly above the oven, to the oven’s phase. It’s assumed that unless the oven is running a self-cleaning cycle or heating up to 300°C (572°F), it draws less than 16 amps. This leaves enough capacity for the microwave, which rarely runs at full power anyway.
However, you shouldn’t connect the oven to a circuit that also serves other accessible sockets. Running the oven and, for example, a vacuum cleaner at the same time would definitely exceed 16 amps and trip the breaker.
The induction cooktop needs 2 phases, each at 16 amps. So theoretically (and practically), you could use the existing cooker connection outlet where three phases should be available (so 5 cables: 3 phases, 1 neutral, 1 protective earth) to power both.
--> one phase for the oven, two phases for the induction cooktop
This is allowed and commonly done when a standard cooker, consisting of an oven plus a cooktop (which requires three phases), is replaced by a combination of an oven and a separate cooktop.
I have done this at home as well. Only difference is that I also connected the microwave, which is directly above the oven, to the oven’s phase. It’s assumed that unless the oven is running a self-cleaning cycle or heating up to 300°C (572°F), it draws less than 16 amps. This leaves enough capacity for the microwave, which rarely runs at full power anyway.
However, you shouldn’t connect the oven to a circuit that also serves other accessible sockets. Running the oven and, for example, a vacuum cleaner at the same time would definitely exceed 16 amps and trip the breaker.
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