ᐅ How to fill and insulate a cavity between two houses?

Created on: 9 Nov 2023 21:44
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fyaylmf
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fyaylmf
9 Nov 2023 21:44
Hello everyone,

Next week, our foundation slab will be poured, and then we will start building up the walls right away.

We are attaching our new construction to an existing building, matching the profile. However, on the backside of the existing building, there is an offset of about 35cm (14 inches) between the two buildings along a length of approximately 4.5m (15 feet). This means the existing building is set back 35cm (14 inches) from the property line. Naturally, this creates a gap between the two buildings because we want to build along the property line. We planned the party wall with a sound-insulating 24cm (9.5 inches) brick, but along the length of the offset, it does not provide adequate thermal insulation (the party wall effectively becomes an exterior wall over 4.5m (15 feet) of the full building height). The builder’s suggestion was to use a 36.5cm (14.5 inches) exterior brick along that length. However, this would reduce my interior room by 12cm (5 inches), and I really cannot afford to lose any width.

The architect has now proposed to continue with the 24cm (9.5 inches) brick and to build an additional wall set forward (using insulation bricks of 12cm (5 inches) or 18cm (7 inches)) on the neighbor’s property. The current neighbor would grant me an easement for this. A potential future owner could then demolish this additional wall at their own expense and rebuild it along the property line attached to my house.

I think this idea is reasonable, but it would incur additional costs of about 7,000 (currency), especially since I already had to underpin the neighbor’s house for about 10,000 (currency).

My question is whether you know of any building material that meets fire safety regulations and can be economically installed in the cavity?

Alternatively, letting the 35.6cm (14 inches) brick extend onto the neighbor’s property could be an option. But that wouldn’t save much money either, as I would actually have to buy the 12cm (5 inches) of land to arrange this properly. That would bring additional costs for surveying and so on, and the offset along the property boundary would remain indefinitely.

Do you have any other ideas? Attached is a photo of the offset. The total wall area is about 45sqm (484 sqft).

Best regards, Martin
Cross-section of a building: exterior wall, ceiling structure, supports, and dimensions.
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Buchsbaum
9 Nov 2023 22:09
Sounds complicated.

If I understand correctly, I would also lean towards using the 36.5cm (14.4 inches) brick and build towards the neighboring property.

The question remains when the measurements were taken and how accurate they were. A 12cm (4.7 inches) difference is probably still within tolerance limits. Modern surveys are much more precise compared to, for example, 30 years ago, although some inaccuracies will always exist.

If you have an agreement with your neighbor, I would simply build accordingly. If anyone wants to dispute the property boundary later, they can cover the survey and legal costs.

The outcome of a new survey is uncertain.

12cm (4.7 inches) on property lines feels like nothing.
11ant10 Nov 2023 00:55
fyaylmf schrieb:

We are now building an extension that is aligned with the existing building's profile. However, on the rear side of the existing building, there is an offset of about 35 cm (14 inches) between the two houses over a length of approximately 4.5 m (15 feet). This means the existing building is set back 35 cm (14 inches) from the [U]property boundary. As a result, a gap naturally forms between the two buildings, since we want to build along the property line.

The gap was not yet shown in the drawings https://www.hausbau-forum.de/threads/grundriss-nutz-eg-optimieren-auf-begrenztem-raum.44673/, right? And if you are building an extension aligned with the profile, wouldn’t it make more sense to cover the “mega joint” and fill the cavity with insulation?
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Schorsch_baut
10 Nov 2023 09:04
11ant schrieb:

Wouldn’t it make more sense to cover the "Megafuge" and fill the cavity with insulation?

However, this must be done very carefully and checked regularly. We rented a semi-detached house from the 1990s where the covering was never inspected, and the insulation up to the first floor filled with water. The moisture problem in the basement was misdiagnosed, and when mold appeared on the stairs in the ground floor of both units, the full extent of the damage became clear. I have no idea how it was eventually repaired.
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fyaylmf
10 Nov 2023 13:24
11ant schrieb:

The gap wasn’t present in the drawings https://www.hausbau-forum.de/threads/grundriss-nutz-eg-optimieren-auf-begrenztem-raum.44673/, right? And if you build with the same profile, wouldn’t it make more sense to cover the “mega joint” and fill the cavity with insulation?

That was still the initial design plan. The offset was already visible due to the two buildings having different heights.

Filling it with insulation was probably the first idea. However, that’s not entirely straightforward because of fire resistance and the amount of material needed. Basically, this area should be constructed in a way that it stays dry from above. Also, the cost difference between the 24cm (9.5 inches) and 36.5cm (14.4 inches) thick components is significant. But something has to be done, and considering around 2000,- it probably doesn’t matter much anymore.

I didn’t expect that a 12cm (4.7 inches) encroachment on the property line wouldn’t be relevant now. I would prefer to have clear regulations for future property owners.