Hello everyone,
Our heating system consumed about 8,700 kWh of natural gas between 12/16 and 06/17, even though the house is still being renovated and unoccupied. All radiators were set to frost protection only, and no domestic hot water was used.
The system was installed in 12/15 by the previous owners and mainly consists of:
This summer, I noticed that the pipe from the solar collector (supply line) was only hot up to the pump, while the return line was almost cold. From this, I concluded that the pump was not running. At the same time, the controller showed 999°C (1,830°F) for the temperature sensor mounted at the top of the collector, which the technician said is the maximum display value indicating no plausible reading.
Testing the temperature sensor (a PT1000) was successful, so the technician concluded that the controller itself must be defective (he believed the pump was still operational).
So, a new controller was ordered, which I am still waiting for as of today, but that’s another story...
Now, with the cold season approaching, we have temporarily installed some radiators to heat the construction site a little and, most importantly, to ensure frost protection.
I was able to reduce the natural gas consumption by lowering the target temperature for domestic hot water to 10°C (50°F); however, I would say the consumption is still quite high (since Saturday, so in 4 days, about 30 m³ [1,059 ft³]... :O).
Is it possible that due to the defective controller, the 800-liter (210-gallon) water volume of the solar thermal system is being kept warm using natural gas, and usually the ESR 31, depending on whether heat is available from the roof or not, activates or deactivates a heat exchanger between the domestic hot water tank and the solar thermal water system, which in our case might currently always be open or something like that?
Maybe someone, even as a layperson, can explain how a combined stratified storage tank works or is constructed?
Many thanks in advance!
Best regards
PS: The heating technician is hard to reach; unfortunately, I have to work with him since this is obviously a warranty case. Once this issue is resolved, he definitely won’t touch our heating system again… -.-
Our heating system consumed about 8,700 kWh of natural gas between 12/16 and 06/17, even though the house is still being renovated and unoccupied. All radiators were set to frost protection only, and no domestic hot water was used.
The system was installed in 12/15 by the previous owners and mainly consists of:
- Viessmann Vitodens 200 gas condensing wall unit 19 kW
- Austria Email KWS 800 combined stratified storage tank
- Flat plate solar collectors 9.36 m² (100.8 ft²)
- ESR 31 solar controller
- Delphis solar station FV 70 (with Grundfos circulation pump on the supply side)
This summer, I noticed that the pipe from the solar collector (supply line) was only hot up to the pump, while the return line was almost cold. From this, I concluded that the pump was not running. At the same time, the controller showed 999°C (1,830°F) for the temperature sensor mounted at the top of the collector, which the technician said is the maximum display value indicating no plausible reading.
Testing the temperature sensor (a PT1000) was successful, so the technician concluded that the controller itself must be defective (he believed the pump was still operational).
So, a new controller was ordered, which I am still waiting for as of today, but that’s another story...
Now, with the cold season approaching, we have temporarily installed some radiators to heat the construction site a little and, most importantly, to ensure frost protection.
I was able to reduce the natural gas consumption by lowering the target temperature for domestic hot water to 10°C (50°F); however, I would say the consumption is still quite high (since Saturday, so in 4 days, about 30 m³ [1,059 ft³]... :O).
Is it possible that due to the defective controller, the 800-liter (210-gallon) water volume of the solar thermal system is being kept warm using natural gas, and usually the ESR 31, depending on whether heat is available from the roof or not, activates or deactivates a heat exchanger between the domestic hot water tank and the solar thermal water system, which in our case might currently always be open or something like that?
Maybe someone, even as a layperson, can explain how a combined stratified storage tank works or is constructed?
Many thanks in advance!
Best regards
PS: The heating technician is hard to reach; unfortunately, I have to work with him since this is obviously a warranty case. Once this issue is resolved, he definitely won’t touch our heating system again… -.-
So,
yesterday I had an appointment with the heating engineer regarding the installation of the underfloor heating system.
During the meeting, I brought up the issue again and discussed the situation with the pipes.
His recommendation is to install an air separator in the basement (I assume near the pump station), which would be preferable for me if the pipes do not have to be relocated after all!
yesterday I had an appointment with the heating engineer regarding the installation of the underfloor heating system.
During the meeting, I brought up the issue again and discussed the situation with the pipes.
His recommendation is to install an air separator in the basement (I assume near the pump station), which would be preferable for me if the pipes do not have to be relocated after all!
I’m starting to get really frustrated... (My heating engineer is running out of ideas too). Unfortunately, none of the previous measures have helped, or at least not in the long term. --> Installed an air separator on the combined storage tank, flushed the system again, and everything worked perfectly! After a short time, you can observe on the temperature display of the controller (ESR) how the temperature of the storage tank (the heating device was completely switched off at that time) drops, even though the roof is clearly providing sufficient temperature. I suspect that an air bubble forms at some point, and eventually, nothing works anymore?
My heating engineer would like to disconnect the pipes at the top of the collectors and flush the modules directly without the pipes, as well as flush the disconnected pipes from the attic downwards.
I still suspect the problem lies in the routing of the pipes, which go up to the ridge and then back down again, meaning the collector is not (as is usually the case) the highest point of the system. Would it be possible to install an air separator inside the piping (i.e., below the roof ridge)?
I have already contacted another heating engineer, who I know has quite a bit of experience with solar thermal systems, to get a second opinion, but he told me he only works on systems he has installed himself...
I would be very grateful for any advice and tips!
Best regards
My heating engineer would like to disconnect the pipes at the top of the collectors and flush the modules directly without the pipes, as well as flush the disconnected pipes from the attic downwards.
I still suspect the problem lies in the routing of the pipes, which go up to the ridge and then back down again, meaning the collector is not (as is usually the case) the highest point of the system. Would it be possible to install an air separator inside the piping (i.e., below the roof ridge)?
I have already contacted another heating engineer, who I know has quite a bit of experience with solar thermal systems, to get a second opinion, but he told me he only works on systems he has installed himself...
I would be very grateful for any advice and tips!
Best regards
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