Hello dear forum members,
I am currently renovating a very old bathroom that was installed in a house from the 1930s during the 1980s.
There was a steel enamel bathtub inside, which I have removed (see pictures). The floor tiles were laid around the bathtub. Judging by the structure, the exposed area should be screed and not the bare subfloor – but I have no idea what is beneath it.
There is a gap about 1 cm (0.4 inches) wide and 1 cm (0.4 inches) deep between the floor tiles and the wall. The left wall is a 1930s drywall made from solid wooden planks with battens where the plaster adhered.
A shower tray measuring 110x90 cm (43x35 inches) is to be installed along the short wall of the room, which is 130 cm (51 inches) long. The shower valve will be installed near the old bathtub faucet.
On the existing wooden wall, I plan to attach impregnated 12.5 mm (0.5 inches) gypsum boards. The pre-wall installation and rear wall will be covered with 20 mm (0.8 inches) Jacko construction boards.
The main issue is the floor composition and wall connection.
Originally, I wanted to level everything with self-leveling compound and place the shower tray on top. But now I am not sure if it might be better to remove the floor tiles (if that’s even possible) and set the tray directly on the screed.
What procedure do you recommend for the floor structure and wall connection?
1) Leave the floor tiles and level the floor?
If yes, with what (self-leveling compound, cement screed)?
2) Remove the floor tiles and level the floor?
3) Apply edge insulation strips to the existing walls or first attach the gypsum boards and the pre-wall installation?
4) Should the gypsum boards extend down to the floor or stop 1 cm (0.4 inches) above the floor?
5) Waterproofing membrane and sealing strips on the existing walls and floor, only on the drywall walls, or both?
Many thanks for any help and best wishes for 2012!
Robert
I am currently renovating a very old bathroom that was installed in a house from the 1930s during the 1980s.
There was a steel enamel bathtub inside, which I have removed (see pictures). The floor tiles were laid around the bathtub. Judging by the structure, the exposed area should be screed and not the bare subfloor – but I have no idea what is beneath it.
There is a gap about 1 cm (0.4 inches) wide and 1 cm (0.4 inches) deep between the floor tiles and the wall. The left wall is a 1930s drywall made from solid wooden planks with battens where the plaster adhered.
A shower tray measuring 110x90 cm (43x35 inches) is to be installed along the short wall of the room, which is 130 cm (51 inches) long. The shower valve will be installed near the old bathtub faucet.
On the existing wooden wall, I plan to attach impregnated 12.5 mm (0.5 inches) gypsum boards. The pre-wall installation and rear wall will be covered with 20 mm (0.8 inches) Jacko construction boards.
The main issue is the floor composition and wall connection.
Originally, I wanted to level everything with self-leveling compound and place the shower tray on top. But now I am not sure if it might be better to remove the floor tiles (if that’s even possible) and set the tray directly on the screed.
What procedure do you recommend for the floor structure and wall connection?
1) Leave the floor tiles and level the floor?
If yes, with what (self-leveling compound, cement screed)?
2) Remove the floor tiles and level the floor?
3) Apply edge insulation strips to the existing walls or first attach the gypsum boards and the pre-wall installation?
4) Should the gypsum boards extend down to the floor or stop 1 cm (0.4 inches) above the floor?
5) Waterproofing membrane and sealing strips on the existing walls and floor, only on the drywall walls, or both?
Many thanks for any help and best wishes for 2012!
Robert
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