ᐅ Conduits on the Property – Any Ideas? – It’s Not Too Late Yet :)
Created on: 24 Apr 2019 13:15
E
EdStark
Hello house building enthusiasts,
My civil engineer is starting the groundwork now (gravel slab for the house and garage). Since he is making the gravel slab up to the property boundary, I’m concerned it might be tight for running electrical cable to the front and back gardens. Additionally, I’m planning an irrigation system, and the water hoses will need to be routed accordingly.
Would it make sense to have the civil engineer install conduits directly, so I can later lay underground electrical cables and PE water pipes without having to dig again? I’m thinking especially about areas without topsoil cover, like the garage and driveway.
Do you have any other tips on what I could implement at this stage?
The house is built without a basement, and the garage has strip foundations without a slab.
Thank you all.
My civil engineer is starting the groundwork now (gravel slab for the house and garage). Since he is making the gravel slab up to the property boundary, I’m concerned it might be tight for running electrical cable to the front and back gardens. Additionally, I’m planning an irrigation system, and the water hoses will need to be routed accordingly.
Would it make sense to have the civil engineer install conduits directly, so I can later lay underground electrical cables and PE water pipes without having to dig again? I’m thinking especially about areas without topsoil cover, like the garage and driveway.
Do you have any other tips on what I could implement at this stage?
The house is built without a basement, and the garage has strip foundations without a slab.
Thank you all.
Question to the group: which compressor would you recommend for winterizing a Hunter irrigation system? I have an 8 bar Makita air compressor, but from what I’ve read, the air volume is crucial, and with 18 L/min (0.6 ft³/min), I’m not getting very far :-( Depending on the size of the system, you need between 2,500 and 10,000 L/min (88 to 353 ft³/min), so it’s not something a private homeowner typically has.
EdStark schrieb:
Depending on the system size, you need 2,500 to 10,000 L/min (88 to 353 cubic feet per minute) Who says that?
I also have a small one. I think it’s about 18 liters (0.6 cubic feet). You don’t need to blow everything out all at once. I have a compressed air connection for each valve box. I plan to connect there and then open one valve at a time. For one zone, a small compressor should be enough. That’s been my assumption so far.
denz. schrieb:
Who says that?
I also have a small one, I think about 18 liters (5 gallons). You don’t have to blow everything out at once. I have one compressed air connection per valve box. I plan to connect there and then open the valves one after another. For one circuit, a small compressor should be enough—at least that’s my assumption so far. Quickly looked it up. You’re right, the total system was the reference; you only need the air volume for one zone. I should double-check the calculations.
Don’t worry about the air volume. Sure, a large-capacity compressor works faster and better.
With a small one, the sprinklers might not fully extend. Just let it run longer, and it’s fine. It doesn’t have to be completely dry outside.
In the worst case, you or your children might stand on a sprinkler, and/or the coverage area will be smaller.
The main point is just to prevent frost damage if it freezes.
With a small one, the sprinklers might not fully extend. Just let it run longer, and it’s fine. It doesn’t have to be completely dry outside.
In the worst case, you or your children might stand on a sprinkler, and/or the coverage area will be smaller.
The main point is just to prevent frost damage if it freezes.
EdStark schrieb:
Ok, my first run has 25 liters (6.6 gallons), damn Ok, it's been too long since school to calculate this in my head, it's actually only 12.5 liters (3.3 gallons) in the zone