ᐅ Conduits on the Property – Any Ideas? – It’s Not Too Late Yet :)
Created on: 24 Apr 2019 13:15
E
EdStark
Hello house building enthusiasts,
My civil engineer is starting the groundwork now (gravel slab for the house and garage). Since he is making the gravel slab up to the property boundary, I’m concerned it might be tight for running electrical cable to the front and back gardens. Additionally, I’m planning an irrigation system, and the water hoses will need to be routed accordingly.
Would it make sense to have the civil engineer install conduits directly, so I can later lay underground electrical cables and PE water pipes without having to dig again? I’m thinking especially about areas without topsoil cover, like the garage and driveway.
Do you have any other tips on what I could implement at this stage?
The house is built without a basement, and the garage has strip foundations without a slab.
Thank you all.
My civil engineer is starting the groundwork now (gravel slab for the house and garage). Since he is making the gravel slab up to the property boundary, I’m concerned it might be tight for running electrical cable to the front and back gardens. Additionally, I’m planning an irrigation system, and the water hoses will need to be routed accordingly.
Would it make sense to have the civil engineer install conduits directly, so I can later lay underground electrical cables and PE water pipes without having to dig again? I’m thinking especially about areas without topsoil cover, like the garage and driveway.
Do you have any other tips on what I could implement at this stage?
The house is built without a basement, and the garage has strip foundations without a slab.
Thank you all.
@EdStark has no objections to using a 10 mm (0.4 inch) conduit box. The cable runs won’t be significantly longer because of it. You can control the system according to your preference.
@Solveigh Yes, our cistern will actually have a capacity of 90 m³ (3,180 ft³) and is located underground in front of the pool. It will definitely be exciting when the delivery arrives, as it comes in parts. Overall, our construction project is somewhat larger. There is also a thread about it. We also have a spring on the property. Additionally, all roofs and terraces will drain into the cistern. This way, we will have enough water for irrigation during dry periods lasting a few weeks.
Irrigation on a hillside is not complicated either. Usually, it’s enough to install the sprinklers at a slight angle. Only on steep slopes does it make sense to use taller risers or to irrigate in a cascading manner from top to bottom.
@Solveigh Yes, our cistern will actually have a capacity of 90 m³ (3,180 ft³) and is located underground in front of the pool. It will definitely be exciting when the delivery arrives, as it comes in parts. Overall, our construction project is somewhat larger. There is also a thread about it. We also have a spring on the property. Additionally, all roofs and terraces will drain into the cistern. This way, we will have enough water for irrigation during dry periods lasting a few weeks.
Irrigation on a hillside is not complicated either. Usually, it’s enough to install the sprinklers at a slight angle. Only on steep slopes does it make sense to use taller risers or to irrigate in a cascading manner from top to bottom.
@rick2018
I now have a separate water connection for the Hunter system in the utility room, but it is DN20 and 2.5m³ (unfortunately noticed too late). The valve box is DN25, and you also recommended PE pipes with DN25. Does that make sense for my setup, or should I install DN20 pipes since my bottleneck is the DN20 connection?
I now have a separate water connection for the Hunter system in the utility room, but it is DN20 and 2.5m³ (unfortunately noticed too late). The valve box is DN25, and you also recommended PE pipes with DN25. Does that make sense for my setup, or should I install DN20 pipes since my bottleneck is the DN20 connection?
The zones were designed for a maximum of 2 m³ (70.6 ft³) since usually a smaller water meter/connection is installed. So, it’s not a big issue.
Please use PE HD PN 16 pipes everywhere. Bends tend to kink more easily and are more sensitive.
If everything goes well, you won’t have to dig up or see these pipes again for the next few decades.
For the sprinklers, you’ll need the most durable pipes since you’re more likely to dig around or make changes there.
So, please use PN 16 everywhere. It might only cost an extra 100-200€ but it’s money well spent for your installation.
When installing, lay the coils out in the sun in the morning, and after a few hours, unroll them with two people. DN 25 (1 inch) is still not very thick and is fairly easy to lay.
For fittings, I can recommend Unidelta. Personally, I seal all threaded joints with PTFE tape. Sure, it’s not a big deal if there’s a slight drip, but you lose pressure and so on.
Regarding the pipe diameter question: It can make sense to work with a larger diameter even if the water meter is smaller. A larger diameter results in lower line and pressure losses. But DN 25 throughout your system is fine. Another advantage is having just one pipe type and fitting size.
For example, in our house, we run a 63 mm (2.5 inch) pipe from the pump to the filter, then continue with 40 mm (1.5 inch) pipes to the valve boxes, and individual zones with 32 mm (1.25 inch). This only makes sense if there is sufficient water volume or if zones are large and/or piping runs are long.
Please use PE HD PN 16 pipes everywhere. Bends tend to kink more easily and are more sensitive.
If everything goes well, you won’t have to dig up or see these pipes again for the next few decades.
For the sprinklers, you’ll need the most durable pipes since you’re more likely to dig around or make changes there.
So, please use PN 16 everywhere. It might only cost an extra 100-200€ but it’s money well spent for your installation.
When installing, lay the coils out in the sun in the morning, and after a few hours, unroll them with two people. DN 25 (1 inch) is still not very thick and is fairly easy to lay.
For fittings, I can recommend Unidelta. Personally, I seal all threaded joints with PTFE tape. Sure, it’s not a big deal if there’s a slight drip, but you lose pressure and so on.
Regarding the pipe diameter question: It can make sense to work with a larger diameter even if the water meter is smaller. A larger diameter results in lower line and pressure losses. But DN 25 throughout your system is fine. Another advantage is having just one pipe type and fitting size.
For example, in our house, we run a 63 mm (2.5 inch) pipe from the pump to the filter, then continue with 40 mm (1.5 inch) pipes to the valve boxes, and individual zones with 32 mm (1.25 inch). This only makes sense if there is sufficient water volume or if zones are large and/or piping runs are long.
I want to level the garden this spring and sow the lawn. I am wondering if it makes sense to lay the PE pipes now, but where exactly? Since I don’t have any curbstones/paving yet, I can’t determine the exact positions for the corner sprinklers and so on. So, should I sow the lawn first and lay all the PE pipes later in the summer when the system is fully installed?
Looking forward to your advice.
Looking forward to your advice.
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