ᐅ Conduits on the Property – Any Ideas? – It’s Not Too Late Yet :)
Created on: 24 Apr 2019 13:15
E
EdStark
Hello house building enthusiasts,
My civil engineer is starting the groundwork now (gravel slab for the house and garage). Since he is making the gravel slab up to the property boundary, I’m concerned it might be tight for running electrical cable to the front and back gardens. Additionally, I’m planning an irrigation system, and the water hoses will need to be routed accordingly.
Would it make sense to have the civil engineer install conduits directly, so I can later lay underground electrical cables and PE water pipes without having to dig again? I’m thinking especially about areas without topsoil cover, like the garage and driveway.
Do you have any other tips on what I could implement at this stage?
The house is built without a basement, and the garage has strip foundations without a slab.
Thank you all.
My civil engineer is starting the groundwork now (gravel slab for the house and garage). Since he is making the gravel slab up to the property boundary, I’m concerned it might be tight for running electrical cable to the front and back gardens. Additionally, I’m planning an irrigation system, and the water hoses will need to be routed accordingly.
Would it make sense to have the civil engineer install conduits directly, so I can later lay underground electrical cables and PE water pipes without having to dig again? I’m thinking especially about areas without topsoil cover, like the garage and driveway.
Do you have any other tips on what I could implement at this stage?
The house is built without a basement, and the garage has strip foundations without a slab.
Thank you all.
A 1/2 inch faucet usually has an external thread (21mm (0.83 inches)). Therefore, it does not fit with a fitting that also has an external thread. Use a Gardena (or a cheap third-party brand) connector on the faucet, then a piece of garden hose with couplings and adapters, and finally one of the mentioned fittings to connect to your pipe. The hose also has the advantage that you won’t have any issues if the faucet is positioned quite low. This way, the bending radius doesn’t matter (HDPE is quite stiff), and you can quickly reconnect if you need to access the water supply. For irrigation, you don’t need any control system yet. The valves can be opened and closed inside the valve box with a screwdriver.
rick2018 schrieb:
@denz. Just because the plot is bigger doesn’t necessarily mean you need more sprinklers. You just need longer throw distances, unless the layout is very complicated.
Even with 100 sprinklers, we’re talking about €200 for something you’ll use for many years. Compared to other less sensible expenses in house construction, that’s a small amount. Well, you know that – like most people probably – I don’t have 10 cubic meters per hour (about 35 cubic feet per hour) available, so more zones are needed -> more valves, etc...
And €2 per sprinkler is also not accurate. It’s not just the nozzle, but also the riser and the connection line (including fittings) from the PE pipe to the sprinkler.
Hi everyone, I’ve been giving some serious thought to where I’m going to dig my trenches. It looks like a lot of work, especially since the front area is already fully compacted, so using a trenching machine is the only way to go.
There will be 7 channels = 8-way manifold.
Any suggestions? Otherwise, this will be ordered and carried out as planned.
There will be 7 channels = 8-way manifold.
Any suggestions? Otherwise, this will be ordered and carried out as planned.
I'm at my computer at home.
Green: Don’t you water the corner at the top right? I don’t see any sprinklers there.
Water cans could be connected in one line. This saves a valve or keeps one as a spare.
Pink: Please create a separate irrigation zone for the tree. It has a very different water requirement compared to the flower beds.
Blue: Given the length, I would rather split it into two 25-meter (82 feet) sections. Supply each from the left and right sides. Either keep it as one zone or better, assign each to a separate zone. I also suspect different water needs here.
Since you are running almost everything in a main trench, you will need a mini excavator anyway. With 4 lines and fittings, the trenches are too narrow and/or not deep enough for a standard trenching machine.
No irrigation on the left side of the house after all? If you’re still undecided, I would lay a pipe and cap it. That way, if you ever need it, you won’t have to dig up your garden.
Green: Don’t you water the corner at the top right? I don’t see any sprinklers there.
Water cans could be connected in one line. This saves a valve or keeps one as a spare.
Pink: Please create a separate irrigation zone for the tree. It has a very different water requirement compared to the flower beds.
Blue: Given the length, I would rather split it into two 25-meter (82 feet) sections. Supply each from the left and right sides. Either keep it as one zone or better, assign each to a separate zone. I also suspect different water needs here.
Since you are running almost everything in a main trench, you will need a mini excavator anyway. With 4 lines and fittings, the trenches are too narrow and/or not deep enough for a standard trenching machine.
No irrigation on the left side of the house after all? If you’re still undecided, I would lay a pipe and cap it. That way, if you ever need it, you won’t have to dig up your garden.
Different water requirements can be managed to some extent by using various drippers with different flow rates. I have decided not to control the water supply with valves at all and instead keep the water running constantly. I think this is more practical.
A quick question: Are you sure you want to run the pipe all the way to the middle at the top left in Zone 3 and then back to the right? You could include the sprinkler at the bottom right on the same line. You planned pressure-regulated risers, didn’t you?
A quick question: Are you sure you want to run the pipe all the way to the middle at the top left in Zone 3 and then back to the right? You could include the sprinkler at the bottom right on the same line. You planned pressure-regulated risers, didn’t you?
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