Today, I spent some time thinking about the outdoor areas and have a question regarding the electrical setup. Currently, the plan includes a garden shed, a carport/garage, and possibly an outdoor sauna if there is enough budget left. Naturally, all of this will require some electricity:
- The garden shed will house a workbench, so there definitely needs to be power for various tools. A three-phase connection for garden equipment might also be useful, although I’m a bit uncertain about that.
- The carport currently only needs a light, but since we are all expected to switch to electric vehicles soon, I would definitely plan for a high power demand there.
- The sauna is planned to be electric for convenience and to avoid chimney inspections, so it also requires a three-phase connection.
- Lights for the driveway are unnecessary because the driveway is short, and light from the carport/garage will be sufficient. The same applies for the path to the front door.
The question now is how to manage this most efficiently. One option would be to have my builder run three separate cables outside. This probably won’t be cheap since three-phase power is required everywhere. However, this would have the advantage that the garden shed’s power could be switched off from inside the house. Another idea is to only run a three-phase cable outside initially and install a sub-distribution board in the garden shed to connect everything from there. I’m unsure if this might end up being more expensive.
- The garden shed will house a workbench, so there definitely needs to be power for various tools. A three-phase connection for garden equipment might also be useful, although I’m a bit uncertain about that.
- The carport currently only needs a light, but since we are all expected to switch to electric vehicles soon, I would definitely plan for a high power demand there.
- The sauna is planned to be electric for convenience and to avoid chimney inspections, so it also requires a three-phase connection.
- Lights for the driveway are unnecessary because the driveway is short, and light from the carport/garage will be sufficient. The same applies for the path to the front door.
The question now is how to manage this most efficiently. One option would be to have my builder run three separate cables outside. This probably won’t be cheap since three-phase power is required everywhere. However, this would have the advantage that the garden shed’s power could be switched off from inside the house. Another idea is to only run a three-phase cable outside initially and install a sub-distribution board in the garden shed to connect everything from there. I’m unsure if this might end up being more expensive.
W
WilderSueden6 Dec 2020 10:06The cistern was originally intended for the garden, and since we are required to build a retention cistern anyway according to the building permit / planning permission, the only remaining question is how much useful volume I want in the cistern. Automatic irrigation is not planned at this stage.
I wouldn’t start with 5x1.5 at all. For example, that’s definitely not enough for the sauna or for possible wall boxes. So at least 5x2.5 (5x2.5 mm²) should be used, since it looks like there will be at least one high-power device at each outlet.
5x1.5 (5x1.5 mm²) I would only use at most for garden lighting.
If you have a sub-distribution board in the garden shed or similar, you will need the sub-board itself and some other small components. Additionally, the supply cable definitely no longer needs to be 5x2.5 (5x2.5 mm²) but must be 5x4 (5x4 mm²), since three cables will then branch out from there to the consumers.
In the end, both options will most likely be similar in price.
5x1.5 (5x1.5 mm²) I would only use at most for garden lighting.
WilderSueden schrieb:The effort is roughly the same. But using three separate cables means you need more space in the main distribution board and have to pay closer attention to cable length. Also, you might need an additional conduit in the basement slab or foundation wall. However, you can then switch everything off from the inside if you want.
What are the advantages and disadvantages? And how complex is it with a sub-distribution board and branching? I’m a software person and this is definitely a hardware problem
If you have a sub-distribution board in the garden shed or similar, you will need the sub-board itself and some other small components. Additionally, the supply cable definitely no longer needs to be 5x2.5 (5x2.5 mm²) but must be 5x4 (5x4 mm²), since three cables will then branch out from there to the consumers.
In the end, both options will most likely be similar in price.
W
WilderSueden6 Dec 2020 13:30The house, garage, and carport all need to be connected to the rainwater cistern. Originally, a volume of about 5-6 cubic meters (cbm) was planned, which should have been more than enough for the garden. The downside is that I now have to bury 3.5 cbm of empty space, which is more than half of the originally planned cistern capacity. A classic case of good intentions but modest execution. The current idea is to go for a cistern with a total volume of 7-8 cbm. And judging by the drawings, it should definitely be possible to "optimize" rainwater retention on the property with some simple measures.
With 3.5 m2 (38 sq ft), you won’t get far if you want it to be “green.” For example, grass needs 15 liters per m2 per week when it’s warm. If there is no rain for two weeks...
Install a rainwater retention tank that can be “optimized” later 😉
If possible, I would also connect the terrace, courtyard, and so on.
Install a rainwater retention tank that can be “optimized” later 😉
If possible, I would also connect the terrace, courtyard, and so on.
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