Hello,
we need help with doing some painting work ourselves.
For cost reasons, we want to do part of the painting work ourselves and have the other part done by a professional painter.
The process will be roughly as follows:
- We will sand the stair railing (metal with synthetic resin primer) using sandpaper around 180 grit and then paint the railing.
- We will prime all the walls ourselves (we have a primer concentrate that we will mix with water).
- The painter will fill, sand, and paint all the ceilings white.
- The painter will wallpaper all the walls with textured wallpaper (we simply cannot wallpaper ourselves).
- Afterwards, we will paint all the walls in the color we want.
What materials do we need?
Stair railing:
Sandpaper about 180 grit
Paint roller
Paintbrush
Paint tray
What kind of metal protection paint would you recommend (the metal protective paint may contain solvents)?
Priming:
What is the best way to apply the primer? I have seen several methods online:
1. Only with a ceiling brush (moisten just the tip and apply to the wall or ceiling).
2. Using a pressure sprayer (e.g., Gloria), spray onto the wall and then work it in with a roller.
Roller with extension pole?
Ceiling brush?
Gloria sprayer?
Painting walls:
Painter’s tape (e.g., Tesa painter’s tape 38mm (1.5 inches)?)
Paint roller with extension pole
Brush for the edges
Paint grid
Which interior paints would you recommend that have good quality and are easy to work with?
What should we look for in rollers and brushes to recognize good quality?
Thank you very much for your help.
we need help with doing some painting work ourselves.
For cost reasons, we want to do part of the painting work ourselves and have the other part done by a professional painter.
The process will be roughly as follows:
- We will sand the stair railing (metal with synthetic resin primer) using sandpaper around 180 grit and then paint the railing.
- We will prime all the walls ourselves (we have a primer concentrate that we will mix with water).
- The painter will fill, sand, and paint all the ceilings white.
- The painter will wallpaper all the walls with textured wallpaper (we simply cannot wallpaper ourselves).
- Afterwards, we will paint all the walls in the color we want.
What materials do we need?
Stair railing:
Sandpaper about 180 grit
Paint roller
Paintbrush
Paint tray
What kind of metal protection paint would you recommend (the metal protective paint may contain solvents)?
Priming:
What is the best way to apply the primer? I have seen several methods online:
1. Only with a ceiling brush (moisten just the tip and apply to the wall or ceiling).
2. Using a pressure sprayer (e.g., Gloria), spray onto the wall and then work it in with a roller.
Roller with extension pole?
Ceiling brush?
Gloria sprayer?
Painting walls:
Painter’s tape (e.g., Tesa painter’s tape 38mm (1.5 inches)?)
Paint roller with extension pole
Brush for the edges
Paint grid
Which interior paints would you recommend that have good quality and are easy to work with?
What should we look for in rollers and brushes to recognize good quality?
Thank you very much for your help.
Benutzer1239 Mar 2023 16:30@Tolentino
In what way was the lime paint from Alpenkalk a disaster? Was it the coverage or the application? We plan to prime all walls and ceilings with Alpenkalk first, then apply textured roll-on plaster, and finally paint.
In what way was the lime paint from Alpenkalk a disaster? Was it the coverage or the application? We plan to prime all walls and ceilings with Alpenkalk first, then apply textured roll-on plaster, and finally paint.
Here are my experiences. First of all, the paint is heavy. A fully soaked roller actually weighs more than with other paints I’ve used.
That might not matter much on the first wall, but over time it really takes a toll on your arms.
In my impression, one roller application is not very efficient, meaning you have to reload the roller more often.
The paint is tricky because it shows wet markings, i.e., it looks less white when wet than when dry. This can lead to applying too much in some areas, which causes problems later. The paint builds up. By that I mean the paint particles tend to accumulate and highlight any unevenness in the substrate. We had a plastered surface that looked relatively smooth to untrained eyes and hands. But after the first coat of Alpenkalk, it didn’t even look like a Q2 finish. There were scratches, streaks, dimples, and bumps everywhere—almost like orange peel texture. And where you applied an extra layer due to the behavior mentioned before, the white looked noticeably thicker.
I ended up sanding the entire first room completely and repainting it, with only modest success.
The other rooms we painted also improved only slightly despite thorough sanding beforehand.
I’ve been told that many of these characteristics (especially the wet marking and higher weight) are typical features of all lime paints.
Considering Alpenkalk also contains dispersion, which should technically make application easier, I dread the thought of working with a pure lime putty paint that also has to be mixed yourself.
It might not be as bad for you if you are painting on textured plaster and like a rustic look anyway.
That might not matter much on the first wall, but over time it really takes a toll on your arms.
In my impression, one roller application is not very efficient, meaning you have to reload the roller more often.
The paint is tricky because it shows wet markings, i.e., it looks less white when wet than when dry. This can lead to applying too much in some areas, which causes problems later. The paint builds up. By that I mean the paint particles tend to accumulate and highlight any unevenness in the substrate. We had a plastered surface that looked relatively smooth to untrained eyes and hands. But after the first coat of Alpenkalk, it didn’t even look like a Q2 finish. There were scratches, streaks, dimples, and bumps everywhere—almost like orange peel texture. And where you applied an extra layer due to the behavior mentioned before, the white looked noticeably thicker.
I ended up sanding the entire first room completely and repainting it, with only modest success.
The other rooms we painted also improved only slightly despite thorough sanding beforehand.
I’ve been told that many of these characteristics (especially the wet marking and higher weight) are typical features of all lime paints.
Considering Alpenkalk also contains dispersion, which should technically make application easier, I dread the thought of working with a pure lime putty paint that also has to be mixed yourself.
It might not be as bad for you if you are painting on textured plaster and like a rustic look anyway.
Benutzer1239 Mar 2023 17:22@Tolentino
The textured plaster is actually already white, so there’s no need to apply it thickly. My main concern is to soften the 0.5mm (0.02 inch) grain so it’s not so sharp-edged, and so that small damaged spots can be easily painted over later. Would you recommend a different type of paint instead of lime paint? Thanks in advance for sharing your experience.
The textured plaster is actually already white, so there’s no need to apply it thickly. My main concern is to soften the 0.5mm (0.02 inch) grain so it’s not so sharp-edged, and so that small damaged spots can be easily painted over later. Would you recommend a different type of paint instead of lime paint? Thanks in advance for sharing your experience.
Our painter always said, “Don’t buy paint from the hardware store; it’s all rubbish!” Since I couldn’t judge for myself, I trusted her advice. ;-) We then ordered from Sto (StoColor Sil Mineral and the matching primer). It was delivered and worked well during painting. Two coats were necessary, but that’s the case with almost every paint.
Similar topics