ᐅ Controlled Residential Ventilation – Frost Protection and Ground Heat Exchanger

Created on: 27 Mar 2012 16:52
J
JGaismayer
J
JGaismayer
27 Mar 2012 16:52
Hello,
our mechanical ventilation planning is moving into the next phase...

In a meeting with the design office, it was mentioned that frost protection for the heat exchanger should be planned – I understood the reasons and causes behind this.
Note: a gas boiler with underfloor heating will be used as the heating system, which will also provide the domestic hot water.

Unfortunately, there are several ways to handle this, and the list is certainly not complete...

  • Control the ventilation to prevent icing at low temperatures (no additional investment costs, no ongoing costs)
  • Install an electric preheater (around 1,500 watts) (additional investment cost approx. 400€; ongoing electricity costs)
  • Connect the heat exchanger to the gas heating system (additional investment cost approx. 1,000€; possibly low ongoing costs for extra gas consumption)
  • Add an air-earth heat exchanger (air is drawn through pipes buried in the ground), with the extra benefit of slight cooling in summer (additional investment cost over 3,000€ with Helios; almost no ongoing costs)
  • Use a brine-earth heat exchanger (pumping coolant through the ground to preheat or precool) (additional investment cost over 2,000€ with Helios; ongoing costs for pump operation)

I am just wondering: which alternative is the “right” one?

I am still missing information or good links online about option (3); I haven’t been able to find much.

If there are no major objections to (3), I think it is the most sensible solution because:
- the ventilation system creates negative pressure in the house and fresh air enters through gaps
- generating heat electrically is inefficient
- the investment costs for the earth heat exchangers deter me

What do you think?

Many thanks and sunny greetings from Hamburg – J
A
Arno
4 Apr 2012 14:20
As a layperson, I don’t understand why icing can occur in the ventilation system. I suspect it happens when moist indoor air is expelled and cooled.

Regarding point 1), if it is that cold outside, the incoming air would be very dry, so perhaps less air is needed to remove the moisture?

Regarding point 2), it occurs to me—isn’t that a bit oversized? After all, it doesn’t make sense to put more energy into heating than the amount of heat you can recover!