ᐅ Cold roof for storage purposes – membrane or fleece over the insulation
Created on: 1 Oct 2022 20:13
J
junijulibaut
Hello everyone,
we want to cover our cold roof with wooden boards, leaving a 1cm (0.4 inch) gap between each board.
The floor/ceiling structure is insulated with un-faced mineral wool.
We are concerned that this might create a lot of dust, so we are looking for a membrane or fleece to act as a barrier, which we can staple under the boards.
What would be suitable for this purpose?
The floor/ceiling structure is otherwise built in a very standard way, from the inside to the outside: drywall, vapor retarder, mineral wool.
Thanks for any ideas and suggestions.
we want to cover our cold roof with wooden boards, leaving a 1cm (0.4 inch) gap between each board.
The floor/ceiling structure is insulated with un-faced mineral wool.
We are concerned that this might create a lot of dust, so we are looking for a membrane or fleece to act as a barrier, which we can staple under the boards.
What would be suitable for this purpose?
The floor/ceiling structure is otherwise built in a very standard way, from the inside to the outside: drywall, vapor retarder, mineral wool.
Thanks for any ideas and suggestions.
F
fach1werk2 Oct 2022 22:20How to Tell if Old Wood is Infested?
I can only share the indicators I have personally encountered. Everyone recognizes holes or tunnels, so that’s not the issue.
When sawdust is produced, you can easily detect it by placing a dark surface underneath. Even though the protein in the wood breaks down—this happens faster in softwood—the woodworm continues to gnaw beyond that stage. You shouldn’t assume there’s no activity just because the protein in the wood has decomposed according to expert opinion!
You can even hear them when it’s quiet at night, especially if there are many. It sounds like a gentle rasping. If the wood was regularly maintained with floor wax in the past, I would be especially cautious, as the holes aren’t immediately visible. I once built a softwood staircase over two days using reclaimed wood from a demolition site—thankfully, all the work was done outside the house, and I removed it very quickly afterward.
If I were to work with reclaimed wood again today, I would get a decoction or treatment from an exterminator, tightly wrap the floorboards in plastic, and first fumigate them as a precaution. Thermal treatment isn’t really an option right now…
I can only share the indicators I have personally encountered. Everyone recognizes holes or tunnels, so that’s not the issue.
When sawdust is produced, you can easily detect it by placing a dark surface underneath. Even though the protein in the wood breaks down—this happens faster in softwood—the woodworm continues to gnaw beyond that stage. You shouldn’t assume there’s no activity just because the protein in the wood has decomposed according to expert opinion!
You can even hear them when it’s quiet at night, especially if there are many. It sounds like a gentle rasping. If the wood was regularly maintained with floor wax in the past, I would be especially cautious, as the holes aren’t immediately visible. I once built a softwood staircase over two days using reclaimed wood from a demolition site—thankfully, all the work was done outside the house, and I removed it very quickly afterward.
If I were to work with reclaimed wood again today, I would get a decoction or treatment from an exterminator, tightly wrap the floorboards in plastic, and first fumigate them as a precaution. Thermal treatment isn’t really an option right now…
The floorboards can be laid without gaps. The vapor barrier beneath the insulation prevents moisture from condensing inside the insulation. The top layer acts merely as a safeguard in case any moisture tries to escape upwards. Even regular particle boards would work, but OSB boards are vapor-tight only if the joints are sealed. The dust does not come solely from the glass wool.
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