ᐅ Coating / sealing garage floor

Tarnari schrieb:

So, in the end, something should be applied, right? Because it actually deteriorates over time?

Even just for aesthetic reasons. The bare screed absorbs everything, and stains can never be removed. It also tends to crumble easily, so it should at least be sealed or primed in some way.

The cheapest "sealing" option would be water glass. However, it will fail after a few years under vehicle load.
The screed must be densified.
For floor coating in the garage, only 2K paint is suitable. Epoxy is better, but also more expensive.

Hello community,
What about using leveling compound?
Chip away the rough bumps – prime – apply leveling compound – then the coating.

Would that work as well?

rick2018 schrieb:

The cheapest "sealant" would be water glass. But it wears out after a few years under vehicle load.
The screed must be densified.
For garage floors, only use 2-component floor paint. Epoxy is better. But it is also more expensive.

So, what now? How exactly?
I have already suggested the use of potassium water glass here in this forum as an option some time ago.
This is a densification of the screed surface!
Nothing lasts forever, that should be clear to everyone. But that’s not the point, especially when cost-saving is on your mind. The durability of a surface protection always correlates with the cost.
To clarify: what is produced (and sold) cheaply cannot possibly have the same material properties as a higher-priced product.
Even epoxy resin coatings do not last forever. It is also obvious here that the necessary mechanical surface preparation as well as pore sealing must be done, which is not being mentioned.
If you want to build cheaply, you cannot expect a high-quality finish.
For a garage floor—and that is the only subject here—a temporary solution is sufficient. It may also be inexpensive, with the understanding that it cannot last indefinitely due to mechanical load.
Regarding screeds—this issue has also been mentioned here—it should be noted that when driving on the surface with a vehicle, the screed’s internal strength must be higher than it would be in living areas.
Cost-wise this is insignificant since the screed thickness for a composite construction is limited to just 25mm (1 inch). The higher-quality cement content does not significantly affect costs.
When seeing comments like "cheaper here"—"cheaper there"—or "rip-off," a small remark should be considered:
If I—let’s say as a screed installer—offer a surface of 120m² (1292 ft²), I can price it differently due to fixed and operating costs than for a smaller 25m² (269 ft²) garage with only 25mm (1 inch) screed thickness. After all, machinery and hoses do not clean themselves.
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So, when prices are roughly compared, related framework conditions should also be taken into account.
A screed with insufficient internal strength will need to be removed and replaced after a relatively short period of use.
At the builder’s expense, of course!
And if you want to save 100 (dollars/euros) on a surface protection—in a garage, mind you—then it will become genuinely expensive for the builder due to the inevitable damage.
But of course, the choice of concept and materials always remains with the responsible person!
Wishing you a successful decision: KlaRa

lin0r87 schrieb:

Hi everyone,
What about using leveling compound?
Chisel off the rough bumps – prime – apply leveling compound – then coating on top.

Would that work?

It should work. I’d recommend priming twice to avoid the need for de-airing. Also, make sure to sand the leveling compound again before sealing. Good luck 🙂