ᐅ After remodeling, the old Kallax no longer fits in the corner – how can it be shortened?
Created on: 15 Oct 2016 08:17
J
Jordi65
Hello everyone,
I recently redesigned my apartment and noticed that my old Ikea Kallax shelving unit no longer fits in the intended corner. The corner is now significantly narrower because I moved the wall, and the shelf is about 10cm (4 inches) too wide. Since I don’t want to replace the shelving unit, I’m considering how to shorten the Kallax to fit without losing stability or having to completely take it apart.
Does anyone have experience with safely cutting down a Kallax shelving system? Should individual boards be trimmed, or are there other tricks to adjust the width? It’s also important to me not to damage the usual slots and connection points.
I look forward to your ideas and tips!
I recently redesigned my apartment and noticed that my old Ikea Kallax shelving unit no longer fits in the intended corner. The corner is now significantly narrower because I moved the wall, and the shelf is about 10cm (4 inches) too wide. Since I don’t want to replace the shelving unit, I’m considering how to shorten the Kallax to fit without losing stability or having to completely take it apart.
Does anyone have experience with safely cutting down a Kallax shelving system? Should individual boards be trimmed, or are there other tricks to adjust the width? It’s also important to me not to damage the usual slots and connection points.
I look forward to your ideas and tips!
Jordi65 schrieb:
Would it be advisable to seal the cut edge additionally with wood paint or foil after trimming?Yes, definitely. I recommend:
- Smoothing the cut edges with fine sandpaper after trimming.
- Getting a suitable edge banding (self-adhesive strip) that matches the color of Kallax.
- Applying the adhesive foil preferably with an iron or a special edge banding machine for a very strong bond.
This looks much better than just paint and protects against moisture that could penetrate the wood-based panel.
Thank you, the idea of edge banding sounds good. I will get some accordingly.
For the next step, I am more inclined to remove the side panel and cut it outside using a guide rail. Are there any tips on how to preserve or replace the wooden dowels or other joints? Should I try to save the existing dowels or use entirely new ones after shortening?
I am unsure whether I can remove the old dowels (glued in) without damaging the holes.
For the next step, I am more inclined to remove the side panel and cut it outside using a guide rail. Are there any tips on how to preserve or replace the wooden dowels or other joints? Should I try to save the existing dowels or use entirely new ones after shortening?
I am unsure whether I can remove the old dowels (glued in) without damaging the holes.
Jordi65 schrieb:
Are there any tips on how to preserve or renew wooden dowels or other joints?Hello Jordi65,
when shortening wood, it is usually advisable to remove the old wooden dowels. They are often fitted tightly with a lot of glue and little tolerance.
My approach:
- Mark new drill holes carefully (precise positioning is crucial!)
- Use new wooden dowels or, better yet, biscuits. The latter are strong and easy to install.
- Make sure the dowel holes fit precisely, as this greatly improves stability.
You can also use special connector fittings if the dowels are no longer suitable.
In short: remove any remnants of the old dowels, prepare new seating points, and reinstall. This will give you a strong, durable joint again.
If you like, I can also give you specific advice on tools and drilling depth.
klabe schrieb:
Remove the remnants of the old dowels, prepare new insertion points, and reinstallThanks, that sounds reasonable. I will get new wooden dowels and adjust the drill accordingly. Your idea about using biscuits also sounds interesting; that could provide more stability.
I’ll get back to you if I run into any problems while cutting.
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