ᐅ Painting Kallax with acrylic paint – any experiences?

Hello Fenar,

I regularly paint Kallax units with acrylic paint, and here is my brief guide:

1. Preparation:
- Disassemble the shelves to reach all corners easily.
- Lightly sand the surface with fine sandpaper (grit 220), which is usually sufficient.
- Apply a water-based acrylic primer designed specifically for wood/MDF.

2. Painting:
- Use a short-nap foam roller to minimize air bubbles.
- Apply thin coats, following the manufacturer’s drying times (often 2-4 hours).
- Sand between coats with 320-grit paper to remove dust particles and ensure good adhesion.
- Apply two to three coats, depending on coverage.

3. Post-treatment:
- Allow at least 24 hours for curing, ideally 3-5 days.

Common mistakes:

- Applying paint too thickly = cracks, bubbles
- Skipping sanding between coats = poor adhesion of the next layer
- Poor dust control = uneven finish

Good luck! 🙂

bulanau schrieb:
Use a short foam roller to minimize air bubbles

Great tip! I once worked with a regular paint roller, and it ended up looking like a lunar landscape 😀

For everyone without professional equipment: sanding is annoying but really makes a difference, otherwise the paint will later look like scratched varnish.

And a little Seanni insider tip: if you thin the paint with a minimal amount of water (maximum 5%), it spreads more easily and doesn’t run as much. But be careful not to add too much!

One more word about durability: Acrylic paint is relatively scratch-resistant, as long as you don’t press very hard objects onto the surface. For Kallax, which is used frequently, I recommend applying a clear varnish on top for protection. This significantly improves the resistance.

Ryder35 schrieb:
Acrylic lacquer is rather scratch-resistant, as long as you don’t press very hard objects onto the surface

I partly agree, but it is important to know the exact composition of the acrylic lacquer. Not all acrylic lacquers have the same hardness or durability. A general statement is not possible without product tests.

Are there any recommendations for specific brands or product lines that the group could suggest to assist Mr. Fenar more precisely here?

Hello everyone,

to help with choosing the paint: I generally recommend selecting a high-quality acrylic or polyurethane (PU) paint from a specialized retailer for furniture pieces treated like Kallax. These paints are often specifically formulated for wood and MDF and offer better durability than DIY-store paints.

Regarding the process:
- The primer should be matched to the paint (check manufacturer’s instructions).
- Sand carefully and finely between coats (grit 320 or higher).
- Ideally, the room should be well-ventilated and dust-free.

Some small tips:
- Avoid fingerprints and dust during drying.
- Drying times vary depending on the paint manufacturer – applying a new coat too soon reduces adhesion.

If you have any further questions, Fenar, feel free to ask about the product in more detail!

stefangla schrieb:
The primer should be matched to the paint

Exactly. A common mistake when painting MDF is selecting primer and paint independently. This can sometimes cause stress within the paint layer.

Victor54 schrieb:
without product testing, there are no universally valid specifications

I can add here: tests often show that polyurethane paints, despite better scratch resistance, yellow faster in everyday furniture use. Acrylic paints maintain color stability better, provided enough coats are applied and sufficient drying time is allowed.

So if you choose acrylic paint, use a high-quality branded product and strictly follow the drying times. Optionally, you can apply a clear polyurethane or acrylic topcoat for added protection.

One more question about the substrate: are the Kallax panels already white or natural-colored? This can affect the paint’s opacity.