Hello
We are currently considering how to finish the walls in our new build.
The interior and exterior walls are made of sand-lime bricks, and a few non-load-bearing walls are made of gypsum concrete.
We want to design the walls so that we can avoid settlement cracks for as long as possible. (These are unavoidable in new buildings.)
What options are available?
Applying a plaster finish on the walls
Paintable plaster, roller-applied plaster, or simply smoothing with a drywall finish to Q3/Q4 level and painting
Alternatively, wallpaper and painting
Non-woven wallpaper, non-woven "Raufaser" wallpaper, painter’s fleece
We want the walls to be either smooth or with a light to medium texture (we are still undecided)
It is important to us to avoid settlement cracks for as long as possible. Non-woven wallpapers are the better choice because they cover small cracks and will only tear if large cracks appear.
The application should be relatively easy to carry out by amateurs.
We plan to have the painter do the stairwell and ground floor.
We want to do the upper floor, attic, and basement ourselves because we don’t have enough budget to have the painter do everything.
What would you recommend?
What is the difference between painter’s fleece and non-woven Raufaser wallpaper?
Is the only difference that painter’s fleece is smooth and Raufaser has a texture?
Non-woven wallpapers are definitely preferable to normal paper wallpapers, right?
Thank you for your help
We are currently considering how to finish the walls in our new build.
The interior and exterior walls are made of sand-lime bricks, and a few non-load-bearing walls are made of gypsum concrete.
We want to design the walls so that we can avoid settlement cracks for as long as possible. (These are unavoidable in new buildings.)
What options are available?
Applying a plaster finish on the walls
Paintable plaster, roller-applied plaster, or simply smoothing with a drywall finish to Q3/Q4 level and painting
Alternatively, wallpaper and painting
Non-woven wallpaper, non-woven "Raufaser" wallpaper, painter’s fleece
We want the walls to be either smooth or with a light to medium texture (we are still undecided)
It is important to us to avoid settlement cracks for as long as possible. Non-woven wallpapers are the better choice because they cover small cracks and will only tear if large cracks appear.
The application should be relatively easy to carry out by amateurs.
We plan to have the painter do the stairwell and ground floor.
We want to do the upper floor, attic, and basement ourselves because we don’t have enough budget to have the painter do everything.
What would you recommend?
What is the difference between painter’s fleece and non-woven Raufaser wallpaper?
Is the only difference that painter’s fleece is smooth and Raufaser has a texture?
Non-woven wallpapers are definitely preferable to normal paper wallpapers, right?
Thank you for your help
G
Gooosee1599 Jan 2023 07:02xMisterDx schrieb:
However, you first need to have the 15,000-20,000 EUR to have everything built up from the painter to Q3 level with fleece and then painted.
Also, always keep in mind:
Painter’s fleece is organic, the adhesive is too. So is dispersion paint. This makes the wall more or less airtight.
Not ideal for indoor air quality.Yes, that’s right, we don’t have 15,000-20,000 EUR. We have a maximum of 5,000 EUR available for the painter.
Isn’t painter’s fleece vapor-permeable? And you only have to make sure that the adhesive is too? I read somewhere that painter’s fleece can contribute positively to indoor air quality.
Allthewayup schrieb:
For anyone who wants to really dive deep into the subject, I recommend reading “The Lime Plaster Lie” or searching for it online.Yes, I already read that often cement is mixed into lime plaster because it’s cheaper in production.Fuchur schrieb:
I thought so too, and that was one reason for choosing it. But whether you can actually replace a single strip precisely in practice, I don’t know.
However: The painter glued my fleece in place, so nothing can be removed. That’s why I can only sand it down, and then the whole wall has to be redone.I read that fleece wallpaper is stronger/more stable than the adhesive, so the wallpaper doesn’t tear and you can peel off the strip in one piece (maybe the wrong adhesive was used? There is special adhesive for fleece wallpaper).
Yes, painting fleece is vapor-permeable, as is the adhesive. Dispersion paints work fine in this case. They used to be completely impermeable, but that is no longer the case.
However, Mrd is correct that all the components here have an organic base. This means they can potentially serve as a breeding ground for mold.
Mold needs two things: a food source and (frequent or persistent) moisture.
If you ventilate and heat properly, this is no longer a problem in a modern new build. If needed, you can also ask about silicate paint, which is highly alkaline and therefore mold-resistant.
What kind of ventilation system do you have?
However, Mrd is correct that all the components here have an organic base. This means they can potentially serve as a breeding ground for mold.
Mold needs two things: a food source and (frequent or persistent) moisture.
If you ventilate and heat properly, this is no longer a problem in a modern new build. If needed, you can also ask about silicate paint, which is highly alkaline and therefore mold-resistant.
What kind of ventilation system do you have?
G
Gooosee1599 Jan 2023 07:59We are building to KfW55 standard and do not have a mechanical ventilation system (the developer does not offer this).
Ventilation needs to be done sufficiently through the windows.
I want to do something to prevent mold (I want to avoid that hassle). I have also considered using silicate paints.
Ventilation needs to be done sufficiently through the windows.
I want to do something to prevent mold (I want to avoid that hassle). I have also considered using silicate paints.
This is not good. Based on experience, people ventilate too little (twice a day) or incorrectly (permanently tilted windows). At least have a system like RegelAir or a similar window-frame ventilator installed in your windows. Then you can have decentralized fans installed in the bathrooms (by someone else) to ensure regular air exchange.
G
Gooosee1599 Jan 2023 11:14Tolentino schrieb:
That’s not good. From experience, people ventilate too little (twice a day) or incorrectly (tilting the window continuously). At least have devices like RegelAir or similar (window frame ventilators) installed in your windows. Then you can have decentralized ventilation units installed in the bathrooms (by someone else) to ensure regular air exchange.Do you mean we should have RegelAir installed afterward?
We also asked the builder about mechanical ventilation with heat recovery or decentralized mechanical ventilation with heat recovery, but he rejected all of that.
Are we even allowed to do that within the first 10 years? Could it possibly endanger the KfW certification?
How do the RegelAir units work? Do they ventilate continuously?
What is the current construction status?
It’s also possible to add it afterwards, but of course, that will be more expensive.
A mechanical supply air system plus exhaust ventilation somewhere in the house (ideally in the bathroom or kitchen) is the minimum I would recommend today.
I don’t think this should affect the KfW standard, because you currently have window ventilation included in your calculation, which likely results in higher transmission heat losses than any other method. If you can reduce those...
Strictly speaking, this should be recalculated.
Yes, it’s like a small protected ventilation slot. But on its own, it doesn’t do much, so you still need an exhaust fan somewhere (see above).
Of course, the best option would be to install decentralized ventilation with heat recovery later on.
Not by the general contractor, but by a ventilation specialist after handover.
Do you really have a general contractor (house and land from one source)?
It’s also possible to add it afterwards, but of course, that will be more expensive.
A mechanical supply air system plus exhaust ventilation somewhere in the house (ideally in the bathroom or kitchen) is the minimum I would recommend today.
I don’t think this should affect the KfW standard, because you currently have window ventilation included in your calculation, which likely results in higher transmission heat losses than any other method. If you can reduce those...
Strictly speaking, this should be recalculated.
Yes, it’s like a small protected ventilation slot. But on its own, it doesn’t do much, so you still need an exhaust fan somewhere (see above).
Of course, the best option would be to install decentralized ventilation with heat recovery later on.
Not by the general contractor, but by a ventilation specialist after handover.
Do you really have a general contractor (house and land from one source)?
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