P
pffreestyler22 Aug 2019 11:43Hello,
now that we have completed construction and moved into our new home, we are probably in the fortunate position to add a carport with a solid shed.
Since we hadn’t planned for this financially before construction started, we have only looked into the topic superficially so far. I have already requested an appointment with the shell builder and don’t want to go there unprepared.
To my knowledge, in Schleswig-Holstein a 9m x 6m (30 ft x 20 ft) structure does not require a building permit / planning permission. We want to make full use of the length, but we cannot fully use the width.
We are thinking of dividing the length into 5m (16.5 ft) for the carport and 4m (13 ft) for the shed.
Here are some questions we have:
1. Gable roof: Why choose a gable roof at all? -> For storage space, e.g., garden furniture, car tires, etc. But we are basically open to alternatives, although none really come to mind. We are struggling with the height and the roof overhang. Preferably both should be as low as possible, as long as it remains practical. I am 1.94m (6 ft 4 in) tall and would like to be able to stand straight up in the middle under the roof. However, this is not a must if something else makes more sense. Our house is 8.5m (28 ft) high and has a roof pitch of 45°. So the roof pitch should only be reduced enough that both roofs still look harmonious. The roof overhang should be kept quite small, e.g., about 30cm (12 inches), so the shed does not get too close to the patio door.

2. Shed material: The shed will not be insulated but should have a facing (cladding). We also want a concrete slab foundation instead of paving. The most practical material for the thinnest wall is probably wood, but I would rather avoid that. What would be an alternative? We could install Ytong (aerated concrete blocks) ourselves, but is another material more suitable? Wall thickness would probably be 17.5cm (7 inches) Ytong + 11.5cm (4.5 inches) facing. This would reduce the usable interior space from roughly 20m² (215 sq ft) outer dimensions to about 17m² (183 sq ft).
3. Positioning:
This is roughly what we have in mind:

We will probably have to “set back” the shed a bit towards the house as shown above. The distance to the patio door is 1.74m (5 ft 9 in), which we naturally do not want to fully use up. Although the house is exactly 5m (16.5 ft) away from the property boundary, the shed will have to be set back because of the roof overhang if we want to keep that 5m distance. Does this make sense to you and seem reasonable?
Probably a bit confusingly written, but I hope it is at least somewhat clear.
now that we have completed construction and moved into our new home, we are probably in the fortunate position to add a carport with a solid shed.
Since we hadn’t planned for this financially before construction started, we have only looked into the topic superficially so far. I have already requested an appointment with the shell builder and don’t want to go there unprepared.
To my knowledge, in Schleswig-Holstein a 9m x 6m (30 ft x 20 ft) structure does not require a building permit / planning permission. We want to make full use of the length, but we cannot fully use the width.
We are thinking of dividing the length into 5m (16.5 ft) for the carport and 4m (13 ft) for the shed.
Here are some questions we have:
1. Gable roof: Why choose a gable roof at all? -> For storage space, e.g., garden furniture, car tires, etc. But we are basically open to alternatives, although none really come to mind. We are struggling with the height and the roof overhang. Preferably both should be as low as possible, as long as it remains practical. I am 1.94m (6 ft 4 in) tall and would like to be able to stand straight up in the middle under the roof. However, this is not a must if something else makes more sense. Our house is 8.5m (28 ft) high and has a roof pitch of 45°. So the roof pitch should only be reduced enough that both roofs still look harmonious. The roof overhang should be kept quite small, e.g., about 30cm (12 inches), so the shed does not get too close to the patio door.
2. Shed material: The shed will not be insulated but should have a facing (cladding). We also want a concrete slab foundation instead of paving. The most practical material for the thinnest wall is probably wood, but I would rather avoid that. What would be an alternative? We could install Ytong (aerated concrete blocks) ourselves, but is another material more suitable? Wall thickness would probably be 17.5cm (7 inches) Ytong + 11.5cm (4.5 inches) facing. This would reduce the usable interior space from roughly 20m² (215 sq ft) outer dimensions to about 17m² (183 sq ft).
3. Positioning:
This is roughly what we have in mind:
We will probably have to “set back” the shed a bit towards the house as shown above. The distance to the patio door is 1.74m (5 ft 9 in), which we naturally do not want to fully use up. Although the house is exactly 5m (16.5 ft) away from the property boundary, the shed will have to be set back because of the roof overhang if we want to keep that 5m distance. Does this make sense to you and seem reasonable?
Probably a bit confusingly written, but I hope it is at least somewhat clear.
P
pffreestyler17 Sep 2019 11:57So, it will come down to 11.5 cm (4.5 inches) sand-lime brick and a 25 cm (10 inches) roof overhang, so the shed/carport will be set back 50 cm (20 inches) from the house, leaving just under 15 sqm (161 sqft) of usable space from the 20 sqm (215 sqft) foundation slab.
Questions:
1. The gables are basically planned to be made of wood. The structural builder suggested using plastic panels due to easier maintenance. I still have to discuss feasibility with the carpenter. Does anyone have plastic gables and are satisfied with which type of panel? We would go for anthracite because of the windows. One gable would face south — is that problematic in summer? The gable has an area of 6.35 sqm (68 sqft) with a 40-degree pitch and a height of 2.25 m (7 ft 5 in), if I calculated correctly.
2. Does anyone know if labor costs can be deducted for tax purposes? We moved in at the end of July, and the shed with carport will probably be built in November/December.
Questions:
1. The gables are basically planned to be made of wood. The structural builder suggested using plastic panels due to easier maintenance. I still have to discuss feasibility with the carpenter. Does anyone have plastic gables and are satisfied with which type of panel? We would go for anthracite because of the windows. One gable would face south — is that problematic in summer? The gable has an area of 6.35 sqm (68 sqft) with a 40-degree pitch and a height of 2.25 m (7 ft 5 in), if I calculated correctly.
2. Does anyone know if labor costs can be deducted for tax purposes? We moved in at the end of July, and the shed with carport will probably be built in November/December.
pffreestyler schrieb:
The wall thickness would probably be 17.5 cm (7 inches) aerated concrete block plus 11.5 cm (4.5 inches) facing bricks. pffreestyler schrieb:
So, it will come down to 11.5 cm (4.5 inches) sand-lime bricks and a 25 cm (10 inches) roof overhang, I would opt for 17.5 cm (7 inches) aerated concrete block and thin brick slips. The facing bricks don’t help a half-brick-thin wall laid in stretcher bond to carry wind, roof, and snow loads; solid facing bricks compared to thin brick slips offer no advantage for a garage. Therefore, I would clearly allocate the total thickness in favor of the structural wall thickness. I would also consider formwork blocks.
pffreestyler schrieb:
The gable has a 40-degree pitch and a height of 2.25 m (7 ft 5 in) You should clarify whether this should still be counted as part of the wall height.
https://www.instagram.com/11antgmxde/
https://www.linkedin.com/company/bauen-jetzt/
B
boxandroof17 Sep 2019 18:59Is it possible to match the appearance of the house using brick slips?
For the shed attached to the house, we used 17.5 cm (7 inches) calcium silicate bricks for the reasons mentioned, followed by a 1 cm (0.4 inch) air gap and then 11.5 cm (4.5 inches) solid facing bricks.
For the shed attached to the house, we used 17.5 cm (7 inches) calcium silicate bricks for the reasons mentioned, followed by a 1 cm (0.4 inch) air gap and then 11.5 cm (4.5 inches) solid facing bricks.
Similar topics