Hello everyone,
Our construction has started, and we are currently at the stage of the foundation slab.
We want to have our house faced with brick veneer. The wall is planned to be 43 cm (17 inches) thick: 17.5 cm (7 inches) brickwork (red bricks) + 14 cm (6 inches) insulation + 11.5 cm (4.5 inches) brick veneer.
I spoke with a field representative from a brick veneer manufacturer, who suggested the following construction method: 17.5 cm (7 inches) brickwork + 14 cm (6 inches) insulation + a 4–5 cm (1.5–2 inch) air gap + 11.5 cm (4.5 inches) brick veneer.
He also added that it would be difficult to find a bricklayer this year.
From what I understand, after the shell construction, the brick veneer follows, then windows and other elements are installed. He said it’s different nowadays — the brick veneer can also be added after moving in, and that this can be easier and more cost-effective, for example, due to the windows.
Question:
Is the suggested construction method more practical, and is it really possible to install the brick veneer later?
Best regards
Our construction has started, and we are currently at the stage of the foundation slab.
We want to have our house faced with brick veneer. The wall is planned to be 43 cm (17 inches) thick: 17.5 cm (7 inches) brickwork (red bricks) + 14 cm (6 inches) insulation + 11.5 cm (4.5 inches) brick veneer.
I spoke with a field representative from a brick veneer manufacturer, who suggested the following construction method: 17.5 cm (7 inches) brickwork + 14 cm (6 inches) insulation + a 4–5 cm (1.5–2 inch) air gap + 11.5 cm (4.5 inches) brick veneer.
He also added that it would be difficult to find a bricklayer this year.
From what I understand, after the shell construction, the brick veneer follows, then windows and other elements are installed. He said it’s different nowadays — the brick veneer can also be added after moving in, and that this can be easier and more cost-effective, for example, due to the windows.
Question:
Is the suggested construction method more practical, and is it really possible to install the brick veneer later?
Best regards
Müllerin schrieb:
Hmm, I wouldn’t want to heat a bare, uninsulated house through a whole winter, especially without any render... Maybe insulation first and then a protective membrane over it? Although airtightness isn’t really the point here.
As you can see, our brick cladding was installed in front of the windows.
[ATTACH alt="2018 03 14.jpg"]35171[/ATTACH]I also always assumed that’s how it is, but apparently that’s no longer the case.
But a whole winter just waiting for the brick cladding?
My concern would be that the tradespeople might get the windows and so on dirty?
You can tape off the windows...
by the way, we also have mineral wool insulation plus an air gap.
Aside from that, how did the sales rep expect this to work? Or maybe they don’t care. Honestly, I don’t think it’s allowed to have an unfinished wall structure... or is it?
Are you building with a general contractor or using individual contracts?
The mineral wool must not get wet, so it can only be installed once the brick cladding is in place.
by the way, we also have mineral wool insulation plus an air gap.
Aside from that, how did the sales rep expect this to work? Or maybe they don’t care. Honestly, I don’t think it’s allowed to have an unfinished wall structure... or is it?
Are you building with a general contractor or using individual contracts?
The mineral wool must not get wet, so it can only be installed once the brick cladding is in place.
Müllerin schrieb:
You can tape off the windows...
By the way, we also have stone wool insulation plus an air gap.
Aside from that, how did the sales guy imagine this? Or maybe he doesn’t care. Honestly, I don’t think it’s allowed to work with an unfinished wall structure, right?
Are you building with a general contractor or subcontracting individual trades?
The stone wool must not get wet, so it can only be installed once the brickwork is in place. How wide is your air gap?
It wasn’t specified in detail, but mine has no overlap.
It’s subcontracted individually.
tumaa schrieb:
How wide is your air gap?The construction specification listed
17.5 cm (7 inches) hollow bricks
16 cm (6.5 inches) insulation
1 cm (0.4 inches) air gap
11.5 cm (4.5 inches) facing brick
But from what I could see at the window and door openings, the air gap actually ended up being more like 3–4 cm (1.2–1.6 inches).
Müllerin schrieb:
The construction specification listed
17.5 cm (7 inches) hollow bricks
16 cm (6 inches) insulation
1 cm (0.4 inches) air gap
11.5 cm (4.5 inches) facing brick
However, from what I could see at the window and door openings, the air gap is more like 3–4 cm (1.2–1.6 inches). An air gap is generally considered only from 4 cm (1.6 inches) onward, but I would prefer 5 cm (2 inches) to be on the safe side. The question remains, though, whether an air gap is even necessary.
Yes, you need it because facing bricks can become quite wet, and mineral wool should not get damp.
Addition: or rather, it depends on the insulation material. Some types are installed without an air cavity, but in that case, the facing bricks must be treated differently to prevent moisture penetration.
Addition: or rather, it depends on the insulation material. Some types are installed without an air cavity, but in that case, the facing bricks must be treated differently to prevent moisture penetration.
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