ᐅ Seamless concrete-look flooring for interior and exterior use
Created on: 23 Feb 2019 22:47
S
SWhof321The following is planned:
A living area with an adjoining open kitchen and glass facade leading to an adjacent terrace are to be unified by a floor with a concrete look.
I deliberately use the vague term "concrete look" because even after extensive research, I am still not clear which of the possible options is the most suitable.
I hope someone here can help me.
The situation:
What techniques and materials would you recommend for the different areas to create seamless floors with a concrete look?
Thank you all in advance for your efforts and suggestions.
A living area with an adjoining open kitchen and glass facade leading to an adjacent terrace are to be unified by a floor with a concrete look.
I deliberately use the vague term "concrete look" because even after extensive research, I am still not clear which of the possible options is the most suitable.
I hope someone here can help me.
The situation:
- Living area:
- Existing floor structure: concrete slab, screed with underfloor heating above, tiles on top
- Kitchen:
- Existing floor structure: wooden plank floor on joists. The planks are level with the tiles in the living area.
- Challenges:
- The kitchen has a low ceiling height (2.10 m (6 ft 11 in)), so the floor build-up should be kept low.
- Additionally, underfloor heating should be installed, preferably between the joists to save height.
- Terrace:
- Existing floor structure: rough sandstone slabs on a sand/gravel bed. One step lower than the floor level in the living area.
- Challenge: parts of the terrace are exposed to rain and snow; water must not penetrate into the house.
What techniques and materials would you recommend for the different areas to create seamless floors with a concrete look?
Thank you all in advance for your efforts and suggestions.
In principle, I would recommend a screed. Sand, seal.
Expansion joints in traditional cement screed can be filled with resin. Alternatively, use an anhydrite screed, which doesn’t require joints and has a similar appearance. Cast asphalt is the most expensive option and probably not the desired look.
If all else fails, fake can help. Concrete-effect plaster or paint plus a sealant. Anyone familiar with real exposed concrete will immediately recognize the fake, others won’t. But it’s not cheap either.
Expansion joints in traditional cement screed can be filled with resin. Alternatively, use an anhydrite screed, which doesn’t require joints and has a similar appearance. Cast asphalt is the most expensive option and probably not the desired look.
If all else fails, fake can help. Concrete-effect plaster or paint plus a sealant. Anyone familiar with real exposed concrete will immediately recognize the fake, others won’t. But it’s not cheap either.
SWhof321 schrieb:
A living area with an adjacent open kitchen and glass front with a connected terrace should be unified into one space with a concrete-look floor. Check here, this topic has already been discussed: https://www.hausbau-forum.de/threads/sichtestrich-oder-fliesen-in-beton-optik.25487/
https://www.instagram.com/11antgmxde/
https://www.linkedin.com/company/bauen-jetzt/
Thank you for your feedback and the link to that very informative related topic.
We have since decided against seamless floors and exposed screed:
- We couldn’t find an option that would look the same both inside and outside.
- The floor coverings apparently need to be regularly re-impregnated and are sensitive to abrasion.
Therefore, we are now leaning towards 60x120 cm (24x47 inches) tiles in a concrete-used-look. These are available in 10 mm (0.4 inches) thickness for indoor use and 20 mm (0.8 inches) for outdoor use.
However, this raises new questions:
1. The tiler wants to lay the new tiles directly over the old ones in the living area. Is this common practice or more of a shortcut? How does this affect the underfloor heating? Personally, I would have removed the old tiles (but left the heated screed), especially because of the transition to the kitchen, which already has a very low ceiling height. But the tiler says that would make the floor too uneven. What do you think?
2. If we keep the heated screed (with water-based underfloor heating), is it possible to add an additional loop to supply the kitchen? Otherwise, I can’t get the heating water into the kitchen.
3. For the 20 mm (0.8 inches) outdoor tiles, do they need to be fully glued down, or is a raised pedestal system also an option?
I’m looking forward to hearing your expert opinions.
Thank you in advance for your insights.
We have since decided against seamless floors and exposed screed:
- We couldn’t find an option that would look the same both inside and outside.
- The floor coverings apparently need to be regularly re-impregnated and are sensitive to abrasion.
Therefore, we are now leaning towards 60x120 cm (24x47 inches) tiles in a concrete-used-look. These are available in 10 mm (0.4 inches) thickness for indoor use and 20 mm (0.8 inches) for outdoor use.
However, this raises new questions:
1. The tiler wants to lay the new tiles directly over the old ones in the living area. Is this common practice or more of a shortcut? How does this affect the underfloor heating? Personally, I would have removed the old tiles (but left the heated screed), especially because of the transition to the kitchen, which already has a very low ceiling height. But the tiler says that would make the floor too uneven. What do you think?
2. If we keep the heated screed (with water-based underfloor heating), is it possible to add an additional loop to supply the kitchen? Otherwise, I can’t get the heating water into the kitchen.
3. For the 20 mm (0.8 inches) outdoor tiles, do they need to be fully glued down, or is a raised pedestal system also an option?
I’m looking forward to hearing your expert opinions.
Thank you in advance for your insights.
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