I have a Poroton exterior wall without insulation and would like to insulate it from the inside using Udiin. However, I am concerned about the risk of mold growth behind the insulation. Are there any experiences or insights on this?
Regards, Mike
Regards, Mike
Ibaaa schrieb:
@ Herr Dr Hix: Interior insulation is not rocket science! And the insulation system the original poster wants to use does not require a vapor barrier or retarder. Sorry, but just because you say it 100 times doesn’t make it true. Interior insulation remains a problematic and error-prone area, which is why no one uses it without good reason.
You couldn’t explain why these insulation boards are supposed to be so unproblematic. The wall is cold, moist air reaches it, condensation forms. I don’t see how a thin layer of cardboard would prevent that.
Also, the insulation performance of that material is almost non-existent, so it’s completely nonsensical to put effort into it for such minimal insulation while risking mold problems. It’s much smarter to simply turn up the heating. Or, as everyone does, install exterior insulation (external wall insulation / cavity wall insulation)...
And no matter how many times you repeat it, it doesn’t become more correct or meaningful.
You claim that a vapor retarder is not necessary because the moisture from the insulation (and the apparently crucial adhesive!) would be released back into the indoor air, but you apparently can’t explain how that would work physically.
But you know what: discussing at this level leads nowhere. Let the interested reader form their own opinion.
You claim that a vapor retarder is not necessary because the moisture from the insulation (and the apparently crucial adhesive!) would be released back into the indoor air, but you apparently can’t explain how that would work physically.
But you know what: discussing at this level leads nowhere. Let the interested reader form their own opinion.
Dr Hix schrieb:
And no matter how many times you repeat it, it doesn’t become more accurate or meaningful.
You claim that a vapor retarder is not needed because moisture from the insulation (and the apparently very important adhesive!) would be released back into the indoor air, yet you apparently cannot explain how this would work physically.
But you know what: discussing at this level leads nowhere. Let the interested reader form their own opinion.Sorry, but first you should do some reading. Ibaaa is completely correct regarding the system desired here. You can also find this information from Udiin and other reputable manufacturers specializing in interior insulation.
Nevertheless, I would personally always prefer exterior insulation if it is legally and technically feasible.
Sorry @bernie, but please read the thread first before commenting.
1. The system requested by the original poster (OP) is indeed marketed by the manufacturer as not requiring a vapor retarder. However, the same manufacturer states in the product datasheet:
This means the same applies to these panels as, for example, to foil-faced PIR boards – the panel surface is vapor diffusion-tight, but the joints and connections are not! You can either try to seal everything perfectly with tapes, pastes, etc., or take the easier and less error-prone approach by installing a vapor retarder across the entire assembly. In any case, the system is not intended for use without any sealing.
2. @Ibaaa argued that a vapor retarder is generally not needed for interior insulation with vapor-permeable materials because any moisture from these materials and the adhesive (!) would simply be released back into the indoor air. This claim is generally nonsense and remains incorrect, even concerning the system requested here!
1. The system requested by the original poster (OP) is indeed marketed by the manufacturer as not requiring a vapor retarder. However, the same manufacturer states in the product datasheet:
Basically, all connections must be properly sized and sealed to prevent driving rain and other moisture from penetrating into or behind the insulation panels.
This means the same applies to these panels as, for example, to foil-faced PIR boards – the panel surface is vapor diffusion-tight, but the joints and connections are not! You can either try to seal everything perfectly with tapes, pastes, etc., or take the easier and less error-prone approach by installing a vapor retarder across the entire assembly. In any case, the system is not intended for use without any sealing.
2. @Ibaaa argued that a vapor retarder is generally not needed for interior insulation with vapor-permeable materials because any moisture from these materials and the adhesive (!) would simply be released back into the indoor air. This claim is generally nonsense and remains incorrect, even concerning the system requested here!
Dr Hix schrieb:
Sorry @bernie, but please read the thread first before commenting I have already read it, no worries. Other very reputable manufacturers of interior insulation systems, such as STO, also do not require a vapor retarder in their vapor-open systems if the interior insulation is properly installed. You have contradicted this by claiming that this is not technically correct and that a vapor retarder is always necessary. That’s all I was pointing out. :-P
The idea that a vapor retarder can generally be omitted in all interior insulation systems is obviously nonsense.
When a manufacturer claims that no vapor barrier is needed, they mean only that no separate one (in addition to the one integrated into their product) is required. Not that none is needed at all.
And in the "fine print," there is usually a note stating that the integrated vapor barrier will only work if you "properly install" it according to the manufacturer's instructions, using additional components.
The bottom line is: You ALWAYS need a vapor barrier. The only differences are in how it is implemented.
And in the "fine print," there is usually a note stating that the integrated vapor barrier will only work if you "properly install" it according to the manufacturer's instructions, using additional components.
The bottom line is: You ALWAYS need a vapor barrier. The only differences are in how it is implemented.
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