Hello,
we have an old house that is about 300 years old, with exterior walls approximately 60 cm (24 inches) thick.
We recently purchased a moisture meter and found that one exterior wall, up to a height of about 120 cm (47 inches), shows a reading of “100.” In these areas, the plaster also feels hollow underneath and will likely start to crumble over time.
The other exterior walls have readings between 70 and 80.
Around the outside of the house, we have noticed a concrete ring approximately 50 cm (20 inches) wide. This does not appear to be connected to the foundation slab, and in the gap between the slab and this base, we can see some black sealing material protruding slightly. Could it be that the previous owner installed some sort of drainage system there?
The house was unoccupied for more than 10 years, and therefore it was not regularly heated during that time. It used to be an old mill and is otherwise in good condition. In 2003, there was a flood with water reaching about 50 cm (20 inches) inside the house. Is it possible that since then it has never properly dried out?
Under these circumstances, how should or could we achieve stability regarding moisture? Or is it likely that for such an old house in a flood-prone area, this will never fully work?
I need your advice.
Thank you
we have an old house that is about 300 years old, with exterior walls approximately 60 cm (24 inches) thick.
We recently purchased a moisture meter and found that one exterior wall, up to a height of about 120 cm (47 inches), shows a reading of “100.” In these areas, the plaster also feels hollow underneath and will likely start to crumble over time.
The other exterior walls have readings between 70 and 80.
Around the outside of the house, we have noticed a concrete ring approximately 50 cm (20 inches) wide. This does not appear to be connected to the foundation slab, and in the gap between the slab and this base, we can see some black sealing material protruding slightly. Could it be that the previous owner installed some sort of drainage system there?
The house was unoccupied for more than 10 years, and therefore it was not regularly heated during that time. It used to be an old mill and is otherwise in good condition. In 2003, there was a flood with water reaching about 50 cm (20 inches) inside the house. Is it possible that since then it has never properly dried out?
Under these circumstances, how should or could we achieve stability regarding moisture? Or is it likely that for such an old house in a flood-prone area, this will never fully work?
I need your advice.
Thank you
There are many methods to dry out masonry like this, as well as the floor necessarily. Horizontal and vertical waterproofing techniques, injections, drainage systems... This should be assessed by a professional. You can easily spend between 50,000 and 100,000 for something like this.
M
mazzo041210 Mar 2019 08:29I’m thinking:
If I get large infrared heaters now to remove the moisture from the walls, I might not have found the actual cause yet.
How can I determine whether it’s rising damp (since the house is in a flood-prone area with very high flood levels) coming up through the concrete slab or moisture from the 2003 flood?
Is there any way to find this out?
The measurement on the floor (tiled floor) showed a value of about 70.
What do you think?
If I get large infrared heaters now to remove the moisture from the walls, I might not have found the actual cause yet.
How can I determine whether it’s rising damp (since the house is in a flood-prone area with very high flood levels) coming up through the concrete slab or moisture from the 2003 flood?
Is there any way to find this out?
The measurement on the floor (tiled floor) showed a value of about 70.
What do you think?
M
mazzo041210 Mar 2019 14:49We will arrange for an expert to inspect the site.
However, based on what I’ve read online, the following generally applies: With such (old/thick) rubble stone walls, there are usually not many capillary channels that draw moisture up from the ground. Therefore, a damp-proof course, regardless of the type, is not necessarily an effective solution and often no solution at all.
This also means that the dampness might be only superficial. It could be necessary in the long term to install perimeter heating systems to simply help remove the moisture.
Of course, before that, new renovation plaster should be applied, and even before that, the whole area should be dried initially with infrared heating.
(We do not currently have a musty smell or mold in the house. Only the aforementioned device indicated moisture, and the plaster in that area is crumbly.)
However, based on what I’ve read online, the following generally applies: With such (old/thick) rubble stone walls, there are usually not many capillary channels that draw moisture up from the ground. Therefore, a damp-proof course, regardless of the type, is not necessarily an effective solution and often no solution at all.
This also means that the dampness might be only superficial. It could be necessary in the long term to install perimeter heating systems to simply help remove the moisture.
Of course, before that, new renovation plaster should be applied, and even before that, the whole area should be dried initially with infrared heating.
(We do not currently have a musty smell or mold in the house. Only the aforementioned device indicated moisture, and the plaster in that area is crumbly.)
E
eleheller196423 Mar 2019 20:04Hello, very interesting topic. Our masonry is similar. Do you already have an idea of what could be causing it?
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