ᐅ What type of burglary protection do you have? And what is the estimated cost?

Created on: 30 Oct 2016 13:14
M
Mizit
This topic might not be exactly right here since we are not building new but buying, but it also relates to planning and idea development.

We are buying a house from 1995. The front door has a multi-point lock, and the basement has a fireproof security door, which probably can’t be opened quickly when locked. That’s all.

Due to a personal incident related to burglary, I am currently somewhat more sensitive to this issue. I am often alone with the children, and the house is in a remote location, with open fields behind us. Although the area is mostly rural and, according to the owner, there have been no incidents in the village so far, I don’t want to rely on that. In short: we want to allocate part of our budget to security investments.

We will schedule an appointment with the local police to get advice.

Regarding the front door: a multi-point lock sounds good – is that enough initially?

Next to the front door there is a glass panel, double-glazed, without a window handle. This could probably be broken quickly, but because of the muntins, it is probably not possible to enter the house quickly this way. We are considering installing a glass break film on the inside. Possibly combined with an acoustic alarm if someone tries to strike the glass?

The main issue is definitely the numerous windows, especially at the back of the house. None of these are visible from the street. As mentioned, the windows are double-glazed from 1995. There are no mushroom head locks installed. We couldn’t find a clear cost estimate for retrofitting such mushroom head locks. Can you share any insights? Possibly that alone would be so expensive that it might be more worthwhile to replace the windows? However, I think that would likely exceed our budget given the number of windows…

While researching mushroom locks, we came across these EM3 locks, which cost about 60 euros each. Do you have any experience with these, and can they be a practical alternative to mushroom head locks?

Regarding alarm systems, there are all kinds available. Mechanical security should probably take priority over acoustic alarms, right? Personally, although my husband sees it differently, I don’t really believe these alarm systems are that effective. Anyone planning a professional break-in, possibly after some reconnaissance, will know in such a rural location that the police won’t arrive in two minutes and neighbors probably won’t be outside immediately either. And what good would it do us if the alarm goes off while we’re sleeping? Acoustic alarms certainly aren’t bad, but depending on the price, I question whether the cost-benefit ratio is reasonable. Probably it would need to be that various alarms are also visible in a way that hopefully has a deterrent effect? Motion detectors, cameras, or even a connection to a security service?

How have you approached this topic?
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Grym
3 Nov 2016 09:18
Forty percent of victims experience sleep disorders, 15-20 percent suffer permanent psychological damage, and 10 percent develop post-traumatic stress disorder.

It doesn’t have to happen, but it can. And the risk that at least one in three or four household members is affected is significantly higher.

In everyday life, you won’t notice any difference whether you have a standard window or an RC2N-rated window. Just check the boxes here and there during the selection process and it’s done.

Worrying about a break-in doesn’t help either, that’s absolutely true.
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world-e
3 Nov 2016 09:49
It’s not about building a fortress. However, in my opinion, safety can be improved with a manageable increase in cost. The argument “if someone wants to get in, they will” only applies to a limited extent for me. Professional burglars cannot be stopped by “basic” methods, but the time it takes for an opportunistic intruder to open a window can be extended, which may result in only one attempted break-in before they move on to the next property.
RobsonMKK3 Nov 2016 09:56
@Grym Sources?
sirhc3 Nov 2016 10:05
Well, we are on the edge of the development. The neighbor is happy that soon he won’t be the last house on the street anymore. The statistic is about 3 times in 30 years; once he faced a burglar who had already broken open the patio door.

The additional cost for RC2N security glass is still reasonable, although it’s still ridiculous compared to the difference from a “normal” window.

For noise protection reasons, we need thicker glass and have it laminated as VSG. It’s still better than putting bars on everything and living in your own prison, like the neighbor. That wouldn’t be enjoyable for me.

I’m also having a network cable laid to the front and back to have the option later to install a camera, as it’s easy and inexpensive to do at this stage. Whether I will actually use it later, I don’t know yet.

Of course, material damage is covered, but it’s not about that; as already said, it’s about the feeling when someone has broken in and rummaged through everything. About lobbying: I tend to feel it’s the other way around. It is often suggested that it’s not that bad, even though the police are actually quite powerless when it comes to burglaries.
AOLNCM3 Nov 2016 13:50
Break-ins preferably occur through secondary entrances (usually less visible, providing a better grip when forcing entry, and easier to break open due to larger distances between the locking points caused by the height, resulting in a greater leverage effect).
With today’s triple glazing, the glass is rarely smashed.
Most often, attempts are made to pry the window sash out of the frame using larger screwdrivers and wedges.
If this approach fails, burglars typically give up at this point.
Those more determined try to insert tools between the sash frame and the glass to push the entire pane inward.

Depending on the available budget, balcony doors and secondary entrances on the basement and ground floors should be better protected. For example: two security strike plates screwed into the reinforced steel in the PVC profiles at each corner, security fittings with mushroom-head locks, additional drill protection, all according to AHS standards, lockable handles, and laminated safety glass.

For windows in the basement and ground floors, some concessions can be made. In some cases, laminated safety glass can be sufficient, while others might require a strike plate at each corner. Each homeowner needs to balance cost and security according to their personal situation.

From the first floor upwards, a basic security level is usually sufficient unless the area is easily accessible.
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FrankH
3 Nov 2016 15:14
In my case, the chimney sweep’s exit hatch in the attic was used by burglars. They broke the glass pane, which allowed relatively easy access from the attic ladder down to the upper floor. From there, they entered the house by breaking the glass in the locked door to the stairwell. At that time, the house was still unoccupied.

They reached the roof window by somehow climbing onto the flat roof of the attached garage (there was no exit aid, possibly by using the nearby fence post or a car parked next to it on the street, which they also used to transport the stolen goods). From the flat roof, they got onto the tiled roof and climbed alongside the chimney up to the window. So, I wouldn’t say that higher levels are necessarily more secure. At least, windows accessible from garage roofs should be secured just as carefully as those on the ground floor.

I have since sealed the chimney sweep’s exit window from the inside by installing a board fixed with brackets, as it is no longer in use anyway. I also secured the attic ladder from opening from above. But you only come up with these solutions after experiencing the damage. The police were also surprised at how they got into the house; apparently, this doesn’t happen very often.