Hello everyone,
I’m hoping to get some ideas on where you would place water access points in the garden. Or rather, where it would be best to lay water pipes now if you might want to have at least partial automatic irrigation in the future. It’s clear that automatic garden irrigation requires more planning. However, I don’t have the time or motivation for that at the moment. It also doesn’t seem likely that this could be done anytime soon. But at least we could plan and lay the water pipes now, so that the option is available later. Attached is a sketch of the current garden plans. The following facts apply:
Maybe you have some inspiration or ideas. I would appreciate it. Thank you very much.
I’m hoping to get some ideas on where you would place water access points in the garden. Or rather, where it would be best to lay water pipes now if you might want to have at least partial automatic irrigation in the future. It’s clear that automatic garden irrigation requires more planning. However, I don’t have the time or motivation for that at the moment. It also doesn’t seem likely that this could be done anytime soon. But at least we could plan and lay the water pipes now, so that the option is available later. Attached is a sketch of the current garden plans. The following facts apply:
- The terrace including the roof is already built
- Breakfast terrace and paths are only planned so far, but these should not be the topic here
- The garden is not yet established, and topsoil has not been spread
- Raised planting beds are planned for the upper left area. I definitely want to include a water point there
- To the right of the garage, the ground slopes gently up to the street. Something low-maintenance will be placed there
- Below the house is a light well, and to the right of the light well is a heat pump
- A pump will later be installed in the cistern, so water pipes can be routed from there
- From the cistern there is a conduit leading to the garage for a water pipe
- In the garage, at the upper left, there is already a tap with mains water and a utility sink
Maybe you have some inspiration or ideas. I would appreciate it. Thank you very much.
Unfortunately, there are still some uncertainties and questions.
So, the sketch requires 12 PROS-04-PRS40-CV housings + 12 sprinklers + connection angles + flexible pipe + T-piece for DN25 pipe. That’s already over €30 per yellow point, and the left area hasn’t been "planned" yet. Plus the PE-HD pipe.
I think it will take a while before I fully understand all the components involved. For the example above, it would be enough initially to have the yellow points supplied with the PE pipe. Then later, the ground would only need to be reopened to connect the sprinklers.
Thanks again
So, the sketch requires 12 PROS-04-PRS40-CV housings + 12 sprinklers + connection angles + flexible pipe + T-piece for DN25 pipe. That’s already over €30 per yellow point, and the left area hasn’t been "planned" yet. Plus the PE-HD pipe.
- Would you create different zones for the sprinklers? How would you divide them? With a 4-way manifold: 2 sprinkler zones and 2 zones for drip hoses, etc.?
- Are there ready-made manifold boxes available directly from Hunter?
- Which connectors are needed to connect the Hunter Pro Flex hose to the DN32 PE pipe?
- Or would a DN25 pipe be sufficient for the sprinkler zone?
I think it will take a while before I fully understand all the components involved. For the example above, it would be enough initially to have the yellow points supplied with the PE pipe. Then later, the ground would only need to be reopened to connect the sprinklers.
Thanks again
@HarvSpec Distribution boxes are installed underground. The lids should be just below ground level.
For each sprinkler you need:
1 x DN32 (1") connection kit
1 x sprinkler head
If you want to connect the sprinklers in a traditional way using swing joints, that is also possible.
Pre-assembled kits are a bit more expensive but save a lot of time during installation.
Take a look at MOUNTING UNIT FOR HUNTER MP-ROTATOR, 32 MM (1") PLUG & Expert at DVS.
I recommend the Expert version because of the Unidelta connectors.
@world-e You are using DN32 (1") pipe everywhere. You need to plan the irrigation zones now as well. End caps must be installed on the pipe ends.
Then you can excavate and connect them later. However, be aware that you will need to dig up almost one meter (3 feet) per sprinkler for connection.
I would suggest making 3 zones for lawn: rear, corner, and side. Then 2–3 drip irrigation lines.
Use a 6-valve box right away:
6-VALVE BOX HUNTER PGV WITH FLOW CONTROL AND AIR PRESSURE CONNECTION, 32 MM (1") PLUG & Expert at DVS
Connectors and PE-HD (high-density polyethylene) pipe are available cheaply at Wolf.
For each sprinkler you need:
1 x DN32 (1") connection kit
1 x sprinkler head
If you want to connect the sprinklers in a traditional way using swing joints, that is also possible.
Pre-assembled kits are a bit more expensive but save a lot of time during installation.
Take a look at MOUNTING UNIT FOR HUNTER MP-ROTATOR, 32 MM (1") PLUG & Expert at DVS.
I recommend the Expert version because of the Unidelta connectors.
@world-e You are using DN32 (1") pipe everywhere. You need to plan the irrigation zones now as well. End caps must be installed on the pipe ends.
Then you can excavate and connect them later. However, be aware that you will need to dig up almost one meter (3 feet) per sprinkler for connection.
I would suggest making 3 zones for lawn: rear, corner, and side. Then 2–3 drip irrigation lines.
Use a 6-valve box right away:
6-VALVE BOX HUNTER PGV WITH FLOW CONTROL AND AIR PRESSURE CONNECTION, 32 MM (1") PLUG & Expert at DVS
Connectors and PE-HD (high-density polyethylene) pipe are available cheaply at Wolf.
Things are starting to become clearer. I need to take some time in the next few days to plan the sprinklers.
@rick2018 why would you do the corner at the top left separately? Are you referring to the lawn? And which area exactly would be separate? In the very corner, there will be a raised planting bed. It will probably have a drip line or something like that.
@rick2018 why would you do the corner at the top left separately? Are you referring to the lawn? And which area exactly would be separate? In the very corner, there will be a raised planting bed. It will probably have a drip line or something like that.
I would divide the lawn area into 3 circles. This makes sense due to the varying sun exposure. Additionally, this way you also have reserves within the circles.
For the areas with drip irrigation, you only run the PE-HD pipe from the valve and connect the drip tubing there. The best option is XFS. It can be buried or installed above ground. It is also very pressure-resistant, so with the mentioned pump, you do not need a pressure reducer.
The theoretical maximum length for drip tubing is 100 meters (330 feet). This allows you to combine multiple sections. Where there is higher water demand, you can lay the tubing in a loop or double it. XFS always delivers 2.3 liters/hour (0.6 gallons/hour) every 30 cm (12 inches).
For the areas with drip irrigation, you only run the PE-HD pipe from the valve and connect the drip tubing there. The best option is XFS. It can be buried or installed above ground. It is also very pressure-resistant, so with the mentioned pump, you do not need a pressure reducer.
The theoretical maximum length for drip tubing is 100 meters (330 feet). This allows you to combine multiple sections. Where there is higher water demand, you can lay the tubing in a loop or double it. XFS always delivers 2.3 liters/hour (0.6 gallons/hour) every 30 cm (12 inches).
Hi, I did some planning and divided the garden irrigation system into three zones: blue zone, purple zone, and red zone, each with its own supply line. I branched off the red zone with a yellow supply line after the distribution box. I hope everything is fairly clear.
@rick2018 and others: what do you think? Thanks a lot.
I also made a rough estimate, and just for the connection kits and sprinkler heads, it’s nearly €1000 (about $1100). This doesn’t include the PE pipes (polyethylene pipes), distribution box, controller, or drip tubing. I still need to carefully consider whether it’s worth it and if I can get approval for it at home (building permit/planning permission).
I definitely want to install the PE pipes though; they’re not very expensive.
@rick2018 and others: what do you think? Thanks a lot.
I also made a rough estimate, and just for the connection kits and sprinkler heads, it’s nearly €1000 (about $1100). This doesn’t include the PE pipes (polyethylene pipes), distribution box, controller, or drip tubing. I still need to carefully consider whether it’s worth it and if I can get approval for it at home (building permit/planning permission).
I definitely want to install the PE pipes though; they’re not very expensive.
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