ᐅ Ventilation for toilet and electric bathroom radiator only

Hello everyone,

Today the plumbers came for the first time, and I would like to compare notes with you:

1. Ventilation pipe for the guest toilet
The plan shows a ventilation pipe for the guest toilet on the ground floor running through the drywall construction up to the roof. I never liked that because it creates an awkward wall upstairs. Now, the plumbers suggested that the ventilation could be integrated into the pre-wall frame with a valve for venting instead. I thought that was great, but is that acceptable? Are there any disadvantages to doing it this way?

2. Towel radiator (TR) with underfloor heating and geothermal heat pump
We have already looked into this, but today the two installers made me uncertain when they asked where the TR would be connected to the underfloor heating system. I then explained that it will be electrically heated and filled with glycol—so it is not connected to the underfloor heating system. They were quite surprised by that. We decided against connecting it because it seemed pointless to fill the TR with the 23°C (73°F) "lukewarm" water, which you wouldn’t even notice since body temperature is about 36°C (97°F) and thus warmer. Is it still beneficial to include the TR in the system? If so, why would that be?

Good luck and thanks in advance.
Redsonic

Redsonic schrieb:
But we decided against it because it seemed pointless to fill the towel radiator with the 23°C (73°F) "lukewarm" water, which we wouldn’t even notice since body temperature at 36°C (97°F) is warmer. Is it still useful to include the towel radiator in the system? If yes, why would that be?

1) Letting towels come into contact with a radiator heated to 23°C (73°F) is better than just hanging them on a cold bar. A radiator doesn’t have to feel warm to have this effect.
2) Towels dry perfectly fine on cold bars too – before the era of towel radiators, we still managed to shower and dry off successfully ;-)
3) If you want pre-warmed towels, you can either use a second heating circuit with a higher supply temperature (uneconomical) or an electric towel radiator with a heating element. The latter can also be operated on a timer.

Ok, thanks in advance. Maybe a silly question: If you connect to the heating circuit distributor (HKV), wouldn’t the electric heating element also warm up the underfloor heating and potentially lose energy to other areas of the house that are actually meant for the wood pellet boiler (BHK)?

Redsonic schrieb:
Ok thanks already. Maybe a silly question: If connected to the central heating manifold, wouldn’t the electric heating element also warm the underfloor heating and lose energy to other parts of the house that should actually be served by the heat pump?

You are right. A towel radiator in the circuit really makes little sense.
If the heating technician is concerned that the underfloor heating output is insufficient, they should 1. also lay pipes under the bathtub and the shower, and if that’s still not enough,
2. install a wall heating system. Then you can skip the towel radiator entirely and dry towels on a heated towel rail on the wall with the wall heating.

Redsonic schrieb:
Ok, thanks so far. Maybe a silly question: If you connect to the central heating manifold, wouldn’t the electric heating element also warm the underfloor heating and thus lose energy to other parts of the house that should actually be heated by the boiler?

The towel radiator with the electric heating element is not connected to the underfloor heating. It is a sealed unit with a plug.

1. No disadvantages from ventilation directly at the pipe

2. Either wall heating with the underfloor heating pipes or electric cartridge...