Hello everyone,
we are currently planning our solid-built house without insulation. However, we are unsure whether to install a central ventilation system. The general opinion, for example in forums, is that such a system should definitely be included in a new build. Reasons given are comfort, continuous air circulation, and so on—well known points. It is also understood that it may not be energy-efficient.
BUT: I have already spoken to one or two architects who say: definitely build without it. Their reason is that everything works fine initially, but after 5 to 6 years hygienic problems can occur despite maintenance. Based on their experience, most installed systems are eventually turned off and no longer used. Some doctors also confirm this and would not install such systems themselves. Their argument is: for prefabricated houses, yes, because necessary. For solid-built houses without insulation, no.
I am torn. On one hand, I want to stay up to date with what makes sense; on the other hand, I don’t want to install something that will be switched off after a few years anyway.
I am completely unsure now whether to choose it or not and hope to get some opinions from you!
Thank you very much in advance!
we are currently planning our solid-built house without insulation. However, we are unsure whether to install a central ventilation system. The general opinion, for example in forums, is that such a system should definitely be included in a new build. Reasons given are comfort, continuous air circulation, and so on—well known points. It is also understood that it may not be energy-efficient.
BUT: I have already spoken to one or two architects who say: definitely build without it. Their reason is that everything works fine initially, but after 5 to 6 years hygienic problems can occur despite maintenance. Based on their experience, most installed systems are eventually turned off and no longer used. Some doctors also confirm this and would not install such systems themselves. Their argument is: for prefabricated houses, yes, because necessary. For solid-built houses without insulation, no.
I am torn. On one hand, I want to stay up to date with what makes sense; on the other hand, I don’t want to install something that will be switched off after a few years anyway.
I am completely unsure now whether to choose it or not and hope to get some opinions from you!
Thank you very much in advance!
S
Sebastian7918 Feb 2015 11:55Mycraft schrieb:
Is additional insulation and/or heating of the ventilation ducts included in the plan? Or will the attic be fully converted right away?The attic is uninhabitable but insulated, and the pipes are also insulated – the floor itself remains unheated.
Mycraft schrieb:
Yes, there are different systems, although I don’t consider a simple exhaust system with window trickle vents to be proper ventilation systems...
1. Simple exhaust system:
2. Decentralized ventilation system without heat recovery
3. Decentralized system with heat recovery
1. Central ventilation system with heat recovery (simply imagine the heat exchanger removed for systems without heat recovery)
However, the principle shown for the decentralized system with heat recovery does not work exactly like that.
The fan handles both fresh air supply and exhaust air by reversing its direction after a set period. But two fans must always operate in parallel—one supplying fresh air (for example, in the bedroom) and the other extracting stale air (for example, in the children’s room). This creates a (barely noticeable) airflow throughout the entire house. You can also combine a 2-to-1 setup. In large rooms, such as the living room, it makes sense to install two fans directly. This can also work across different floors.
The humid rooms (kitchen, bathroom, utility room) are excluded here. The goal is to remove odors and humidity from these rooms, not to spread them throughout the house. Therefore, only exhaust fans are used in these rooms (which are also more cost-effective). These exhaust fans are controlled by humidity sensors and timers (meaning you set the humidity level at which they activate and how long they run afterward). Additionally, these exhaust fans should also be manually controllable—after using the toilet, for example, humidity usually does not increase. Then you start the exhaust fan manually.
S
Sebastian7918 Feb 2015 12:55Since I am installing the system myself, I need to be very careful.
I can’t see any reason why the system should fail...
I can’t see any reason why the system should fail...
Because if unheated and insufficiently insulated... condensation forms on the outside of the pipes, which usually then finds its way into the house or causes damage to the roof, etc.
Basic physics...
@f-pNo
This is a simple schematic to help people who are not familiar understand what is being discussed.
There are countless variations, with one fan here, another there—especially in decentralized systems in single-family homes. Mixed solutions are also possible... but that does not automatically mean your solution is the best or correct one. It always depends on many different factors which system is installed and how many fans are necessary...
Basic physics...
@f-pNo
This is a simple schematic to help people who are not familiar understand what is being discussed.
There are countless variations, with one fan here, another there—especially in decentralized systems in single-family homes. Mixed solutions are also possible... but that does not automatically mean your solution is the best or correct one. It always depends on many different factors which system is installed and how many fans are necessary...
S
Sebastian7918 Feb 2015 13:24Well, as mentioned before: the attic will be fully insulated and the pipes will also be insulated – so I don’t expect any problems there.
Why should condensate form on the outside of the pipes? The air inside the pipes, except for the 1m (3.3 feet) section through the roof, is warmer than the attic (except for a few weeks in summer, but even then the difference isn’t large enough because general warmth causes a lot of water to evaporate). It’s basic physics. You just need to insulate the 1m (3.3 feet) section properly.
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