According to our architect, we should only apply the horizontal waterproofing of the foundation slab inside the house.
We have already done this on the ground floor inside the house. However, I am wondering whether we should also do it in the directly adjacent garage?
In the garage, we will have approximately 18cm (7 inches) of screed with a slope on top of 10cm (4 inches).
What are the advantages and disadvantages of using a bituminous membrane (such as Katja or Erika) in the garage, and how have you handled this in your own houses?
We have already done this on the ground floor inside the house. However, I am wondering whether we should also do it in the directly adjacent garage?
In the garage, we will have approximately 18cm (7 inches) of screed with a slope on top of 10cm (4 inches).
What are the advantages and disadvantages of using a bituminous membrane (such as Katja or Erika) in the garage, and how have you handled this in your own houses?
K
Knallkörper3 Sep 2017 09:42There are lockable ventilation openings available for garage doors. Ventilation grilles can also be installed in the parapet. This is the most effective type of ventilation, depending on the roof design. Another option is a core drill hole in the wall, where a fan can be installed later. However, I would recommend trying it without a fan first.
truce schrieb:
In newly built residential developments, you see garages 90% of the time with doors left open by 10-20cm (4-8 inches)...Praise be to the precast concrete garage!
A garage is not a residential building!
Therefore, waterproofing within the floor construction is not necessary.
An 18cm (7 inch) thick screed? How is that supposed to work? Even with a 10cm (4 inch) thick cement screed, it is difficult to properly compact the lower screed layer. More than 10cm (4 inch) simply won’t work. No screed installer would carry it out that way.
Furthermore, the question is whether it should be a bonded screed or a screed on a separating layer.
For a bonded screed, about 30mm to 50mm (1.2 to 2 inches) is usual.
An 18cm (7 inch) thick screed will crack during drying like a loaf of bread, which will be quite a problem.
My suggestion:
35mm (1.4 inch) bonded cement screed, no waterproofing, no intermediate membrane, no slope.
However, there must be sufficient surface protection applied in the form of a suitably thick coat of concrete paint. It must be sanded beforehand; otherwise, you might as well skip this step. Without sanding, such a coating would last only from noon to noon!!
The architect should consult someone who really knows their stuff!
Not necessarily from the “Yellow Pages,” but a screed specialist company with a supervisor holding a master craftsman qualification.
------------------------------
Regards, KlaRa
Therefore, waterproofing within the floor construction is not necessary.
An 18cm (7 inch) thick screed? How is that supposed to work? Even with a 10cm (4 inch) thick cement screed, it is difficult to properly compact the lower screed layer. More than 10cm (4 inch) simply won’t work. No screed installer would carry it out that way.
Furthermore, the question is whether it should be a bonded screed or a screed on a separating layer.
For a bonded screed, about 30mm to 50mm (1.2 to 2 inches) is usual.
An 18cm (7 inch) thick screed will crack during drying like a loaf of bread, which will be quite a problem.
My suggestion:
35mm (1.4 inch) bonded cement screed, no waterproofing, no intermediate membrane, no slope.
However, there must be sufficient surface protection applied in the form of a suitably thick coat of concrete paint. It must be sanded beforehand; otherwise, you might as well skip this step. Without sanding, such a coating would last only from noon to noon!!
The architect should consult someone who really knows their stuff!
Not necessarily from the “Yellow Pages,” but a screed specialist company with a supervisor holding a master craftsman qualification.
------------------------------
Regards, KlaRa
KlaRa schrieb:
An 18cm (7 inch) thick screed? How is that supposed to work? Even with a 10cm (4 inch) thick cement screed, it’s difficult to properly compact the lower screed layer. More than 10cm (4 inch) is not feasible. No screed installer would execute it like that.
Furthermore, the question is whether it is meant to be a bonded screed or a screed on a separating layer.Unfortunately, I am not a screed specialist and have to rely on the offers presented to us.For the garage, all screed companies offered us:
Cement screed (according to DIN 18560):
CT - C20 - F4
Screed thickness: 45 - 185 mm (2 - 7 inches)
One screed supplier also offered an additional layer of AKS mesh as reinforcement.
The others seem to already include fibers in the screed mentioned above.
You cannot be blamed for not being a screed specialist. However, as an expert, I do deal with this topic among others.
So, what could be more obvious than to consider my advice?
There is no such thing as "additional reinforcement" for screeds. In fact, screeds do not contain reinforcement, as this term comes from structural engineering. From a structural perspective, screeds are not considered constructions.
Chicken wire, which is often promoted as "reinforcement," is not mandatory according to any standard and has frequently caused more damage than previously known.
All bonded screeds thicker than 50 to maximum 60 mm (2 to 2.4 inches) are pointless and highly risky due to their tendency to crack!
So: do not act on half-knowledge in this matter (and I do not mean you here), but seek advice from those who really know!!
–-------------
Regards, KlaRa
So, what could be more obvious than to consider my advice?
There is no such thing as "additional reinforcement" for screeds. In fact, screeds do not contain reinforcement, as this term comes from structural engineering. From a structural perspective, screeds are not considered constructions.
Chicken wire, which is often promoted as "reinforcement," is not mandatory according to any standard and has frequently caused more damage than previously known.
All bonded screeds thicker than 50 to maximum 60 mm (2 to 2.4 inches) are pointless and highly risky due to their tendency to crack!
So: do not act on half-knowledge in this matter (and I do not mean you here), but seek advice from those who really know!!
–-------------
Regards, KlaRa
KlaRa schrieb:
An 18cm (7 inch) thick screed will crack while drying like a loaf of bread, which will be fun to watch.
My suggestion:
35mm (1.4 inch) bonded cement screed, no waterproofing, no separating membrane, no slope. Thank you for your advice.
However, we want to have a level entrance from the utility room into the garage. The floor build-up there is 18cm (7 inch).
If we do it as you suggested (3.5cm (1.4 inch) cement screed), we would end up with a 14.5cm (5.7 inch) step up to the house.
In addition, we have conduit pipes on the slab to the sockets in the garage, which would not be sufficiently covered by a 3.5cm (1.4 inch) screed, right?
What about adding insulating boards to gain some height?
Similar topics