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rookeenator10 Sep 2021 15:29Hello everyone,
In our house, a seamless mineral screed floor by Volimea was applied over the granite tiles underneath (entire ground floor: living room, hallway, kitchen). There is underfloor heating below. We would like to have the screed floor and tiles removed in order to install hardwood flooring.
Does anyone have experience with how this is done and how labor-intensive it is? I’ve heard that the screed floor needs to be ground off. But if the tiles are still underneath, maybe it’s easier because everything can just be broken up? Or is it actually more complicated because it has to be ground first and then chiseled away?
Has anyone dealt with this?
Thank you very much!
In our house, a seamless mineral screed floor by Volimea was applied over the granite tiles underneath (entire ground floor: living room, hallway, kitchen). There is underfloor heating below. We would like to have the screed floor and tiles removed in order to install hardwood flooring.
Does anyone have experience with how this is done and how labor-intensive it is? I’ve heard that the screed floor needs to be ground off. But if the tiles are still underneath, maybe it’s easier because everything can just be broken up? Or is it actually more complicated because it has to be ground first and then chiseled away?
Has anyone dealt with this?
Thank you very much!
Hello questioner.
First of all, it must be taken into account that every layer above the screed increases the thermal resistance.
Some underfloor heating systems are already designed with very tight tolerances (without the homeowner even realizing it). The overall topic is extremely extensive and complex—more complex than a layperson might expect.
The likelihood that adding another layer on top of existing layers will prevent the necessary heat emission is high.
For this reason, the removal of the ceramic tiles as planned is definitely the right approach!
Such measures, however, also require the correct equipment as well as experience in operating the machinery.
Of course, one could try to save costs by taking a chisel and hammer and struggling endlessly to break everything down to the screed surface.
A professional company, on the other hand, will either use a pneumatic chisel or—best and fastest—a self-propelled electric floor scraper. For large areas, and with appropriately sized scrapers, it’s best to keep a safe distance as the scraper makes its way with the chisel!
A living room is usually cleared of ceramic tiles more quickly than a craftsman working with a hammer and hand chisel who will be looking for his first break after 30 minutes.
After removal, the screed surface will look very rough and uneven. This is a moment when it’s better to invite the homeowners to take a walk outside. For the tradesperson, it’s nothing unusual; after this the (mostly dust-free) milling machine will be used, followed by brushing (steel brushes) or sanding.
Granted, this may sound extensive, but even for a layperson who "volunteers" for the entire process without sufficient technical support, it is just as essential to comply with the technical rules as it is for the professional company.
If you focus only on saving money, it often becomes especially costly later—if the flat is damaged to the point of total loss and the work must be repeated unintentionally.
Therefore: please do not focus on cost, but ensure that within a reasonable timeframe and effort, a substrate is prepared that is suitable for the full-surface bonding of parquet.
Because the parquet installer, as the following trade, will also check during their preliminary inspection whether the screed surface is suitable to create a durable bond with the underside of the parquet.
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Good luck: KlaRa
First of all, it must be taken into account that every layer above the screed increases the thermal resistance.
Some underfloor heating systems are already designed with very tight tolerances (without the homeowner even realizing it). The overall topic is extremely extensive and complex—more complex than a layperson might expect.
The likelihood that adding another layer on top of existing layers will prevent the necessary heat emission is high.
For this reason, the removal of the ceramic tiles as planned is definitely the right approach!
Such measures, however, also require the correct equipment as well as experience in operating the machinery.
Of course, one could try to save costs by taking a chisel and hammer and struggling endlessly to break everything down to the screed surface.
A professional company, on the other hand, will either use a pneumatic chisel or—best and fastest—a self-propelled electric floor scraper. For large areas, and with appropriately sized scrapers, it’s best to keep a safe distance as the scraper makes its way with the chisel!
A living room is usually cleared of ceramic tiles more quickly than a craftsman working with a hammer and hand chisel who will be looking for his first break after 30 minutes.
After removal, the screed surface will look very rough and uneven. This is a moment when it’s better to invite the homeowners to take a walk outside. For the tradesperson, it’s nothing unusual; after this the (mostly dust-free) milling machine will be used, followed by brushing (steel brushes) or sanding.
Granted, this may sound extensive, but even for a layperson who "volunteers" for the entire process without sufficient technical support, it is just as essential to comply with the technical rules as it is for the professional company.
If you focus only on saving money, it often becomes especially costly later—if the flat is damaged to the point of total loss and the work must be repeated unintentionally.
Therefore: please do not focus on cost, but ensure that within a reasonable timeframe and effort, a substrate is prepared that is suitable for the full-surface bonding of parquet.
Because the parquet installer, as the following trade, will also check during their preliminary inspection whether the screed surface is suitable to create a durable bond with the underside of the parquet.
------------------
Good luck: KlaRa
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rookeenator10 Sep 2021 16:26Hello KlaRa,
thank you very much for the detailed response.
Just to clarify: fortunately, the house is still empty, and we want all the work to be done by professionals.
For now, my main goal is to get realistic assessments of what is feasible. The first floor installers I contacted had no experience with this type of self-leveling screed and mostly referred me to demolition companies.
Many thanks!
thank you very much for the detailed response.
Just to clarify: fortunately, the house is still empty, and we want all the work to be done by professionals.
For now, my main goal is to get realistic assessments of what is feasible. The first floor installers I contacted had no experience with this type of self-leveling screed and mostly referred me to demolition companies.
Many thanks!
Well, there is no need to discuss what is possible in the flooring industry, considering the negative craftsmanship aspects.
There are "specialist installers" who need to be instructed to apply a primer before leveling compound. Or that a surface waterproofing must connect to a horizontal waterproofing.
Regarding "feasibility," the green light is given!
Whether a decorative leveling compound has been applied over the tiles or something else: that does not matter.
The tiles will be stripped off, and the remaining adhesive mortar is the actual "problem" and is easily removed with a milling machine equipped with effective dust extraction (and unavoidable noise).
Just ask the parquet installer if they will take on the entire job. They will, and may subcontract the removal work to a specialist they have worked with for a long time. This is actually the usual procedure.
Regards, KlaRa
There are "specialist installers" who need to be instructed to apply a primer before leveling compound. Or that a surface waterproofing must connect to a horizontal waterproofing.
Regarding "feasibility," the green light is given!
Whether a decorative leveling compound has been applied over the tiles or something else: that does not matter.
The tiles will be stripped off, and the remaining adhesive mortar is the actual "problem" and is easily removed with a milling machine equipped with effective dust extraction (and unavoidable noise).
Just ask the parquet installer if they will take on the entire job. They will, and may subcontract the removal work to a specialist they have worked with for a long time. This is actually the usual procedure.
Regards, KlaRa
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