ᐅ Proper Ventilation and Drying of Interior Plaster / Drying Time
Created on: 10 Sep 2016 20:25
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Hausi2016
Hello everyone,
are there any physicists or experts familiar with physics here?
I have questions regarding the drying of interior plaster.
In our new build, the interior plaster was completed the day before yesterday, and we are now considering how to remove the moisture from the house or walls as effectively as possible without causing damage, especially in the basement. The basement was also underwater by about 25 cm (10 inches) roughly two months ago. (Our house is built on a slope, so the basement is half underground, and the other half extends above the ground level by about half its height. On the basement side, there are four standard windows above ground level.)
According to various guides, some construction workers, and a drying company, in summer you should only ventilate at night when it’s at least 5°C (9°F) cooler outside than inside, and NEVER during the hot daytime hours. This makes sense from a scientific standpoint based on the water vapor saturation curve. Now, our question is: does this advice apply only to finished houses, or also to fresh interior plaster to help it dry quickly and effectively? We have read in other forums that, after plastering, continuous ventilation during the day is recommended, and that it should not be ventilated at night.
We want to avoid any mistakes in the basement in particular, to prevent mold growth!
Currently, inside the house during the day, we have about 82% relative humidity at 22–23°C (72–73°F). In the basement, it’s about 90% relative humidity at 18–19°C (64–66°F).
When we ventilate at night, the temperature drops to approximately 17–18°C (63–64°F) with about 70% relative humidity.
Another question is: how long should we wait after plastering before installing the floor insulation? Could any remaining moisture from the plastered wall migrate into the insulation and cause damage?
Thank you very much in advance for your answers!
Best regards,
hausi2016
are there any physicists or experts familiar with physics here?
I have questions regarding the drying of interior plaster.
In our new build, the interior plaster was completed the day before yesterday, and we are now considering how to remove the moisture from the house or walls as effectively as possible without causing damage, especially in the basement. The basement was also underwater by about 25 cm (10 inches) roughly two months ago. (Our house is built on a slope, so the basement is half underground, and the other half extends above the ground level by about half its height. On the basement side, there are four standard windows above ground level.)
According to various guides, some construction workers, and a drying company, in summer you should only ventilate at night when it’s at least 5°C (9°F) cooler outside than inside, and NEVER during the hot daytime hours. This makes sense from a scientific standpoint based on the water vapor saturation curve. Now, our question is: does this advice apply only to finished houses, or also to fresh interior plaster to help it dry quickly and effectively? We have read in other forums that, after plastering, continuous ventilation during the day is recommended, and that it should not be ventilated at night.
We want to avoid any mistakes in the basement in particular, to prevent mold growth!
Currently, inside the house during the day, we have about 82% relative humidity at 22–23°C (72–73°F). In the basement, it’s about 90% relative humidity at 18–19°C (64–66°F).
When we ventilate at night, the temperature drops to approximately 17–18°C (63–64°F) with about 70% relative humidity.
Another question is: how long should we wait after plastering before installing the floor insulation? Could any remaining moisture from the plastered wall migrate into the insulation and cause damage?
Thank you very much in advance for your answers!
Best regards,
hausi2016
Vicky Pedia15 May 2020 22:38Tarnari schrieb:
This is actually for window cleaning. You have a squeegee-like attachment, a spray nozzle for glass cleaner, and a vacuum. It makes cleaning windows very simple and effective. Thank you!!!!
bauenmk202016 May 2020 12:01Yes, Kärcher window vacuums. When I clean the windows with a microfiber cloth, the cloth is soaked after the second window and I have to wring it out. If I use the window vacuum, it sucks the water into a tank. Then I wipe the window frames with microfiber cloths. You can also use the vacuum to remove water droplets from the tiles.
Strangely, many people have such a vacuum but don’t use it for cleaning windows. That’s why I’ve already received two from family members for the construction site because they otherwise go unused.
It saves me a lot of time in the morning.
Strangely, many people have such a vacuum but don’t use it for cleaning windows. That’s why I’ve already received two from family members for the construction site because they otherwise go unused.
It saves me a lot of time in the morning.
I always work with window cleaner on glass fronts and initially on the lightweight ceiling. Before each new pass, I clean off the rubber scraper and start fresh. I found this much easier than using cloths and disposable paper towels. Conveniently, there was someone in the family with a short telescopic handle.
Every time I empty a container (quickly tossing it out the window before plastering the exterior), I feel a bit more relieved to be making progress towards a dry shell.
I agree with @bauenmk2020: usually, someone in your circle of friends or family has such a tool lying around unused.
Every time I empty a container (quickly tossing it out the window before plastering the exterior), I feel a bit more relieved to be making progress towards a dry shell.
I agree with @bauenmk2020: usually, someone in your circle of friends or family has such a tool lying around unused.
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Alessandro18 May 2020 15:44I can only suggest that you tape off or close the hatch for the attic ladder (or loft ladder). Otherwise, moisture will spread throughout the attic, and the beams will start to develop mold.
We had serious water drips on the ceilings back then, which we wiped off daily. In addition, a dehumidifier removed 10–20 liters (3–5 gallons) of water from the air every day for over 5 weeks.
We had serious water drips on the ceilings back then, which we wiped off daily. In addition, a dehumidifier removed 10–20 liters (3–5 gallons) of water from the air every day for over 5 weeks.
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